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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Posts
    16

    Default How do I best cap square steel tuning?

    I have some 1.25" x 1.25" x .095 square steel tubing that may need some ends capped and want to know the smart way to do it. I read somewhere about "tabs" but haven't got a clue what those look like... a picture's worth a thousand words.

    Obviously I could grind and fit them to the inside of the tube or have them on the outside but there's gotta be some tricks to it.

    Thanks for the help.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    apple valley, ca
    Posts
    28

    Default

    When I need to cap square tube, like fence posted or table ends, I use flat stock that is the same size of the tube and Cut if to fit, weld, then grind to look good. Works well, cheap and easy. So you are using 1.25 square tube, I would get 1.25 flat bar and cut it square. Easy flat caps. Hope this helps

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Raymore Missouri
    Posts
    1,920

    Default

    Ok, why do you want to cap the tubing? So it looks nicer? If not to seal but to dress it up, you can get the plastic plugs you tap in. King supply in Texas sells them
    Nick
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  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Boise, ID
    Posts
    36

    Default

    I do it similar to dozer7078 but I don't cut them square first. I use a length, weld or tack up 3 of the sides, then take an angle grinder with a cutoff blade, cut it off to fit and then weld the fourth side. I find this is easier cause I have something to hold onto while I'm getting it tacked in place with the right alignment.

    I have also used the tap in plastic caps that monte mentioned. You can get some sizes at Home Depot but they are WAY less expensive from King.

    Bob

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Salem ,Ohio
    Posts
    3,909

    Cool

    I wouldn't cut the caps the same size of the tube make them a tad smaller so when you grind them smooth you will still have some weld holding the cap to the tube. Just my thoughts...Bob
    Bob Wright, Grandson of Tee Nee Boat Trailer Founder
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  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Posts
    16

    Default

    Thank you and sorry I posted then tuned out. I got my log splitter on wheels, finally.

    The capping is for prettiness, safety sake and to seal out water. It's a log splitter and I pay more attention to where my hands are than where my legs are. The legs tend to run into stuff and I HATE getting cut on my own work!

    As it turns out I may be able to cap them AND add some strength to the highest load bearing joints. The splitter, power pack is separate, probably weighs 450lbs.

    IMG_2922.jpg

    IMG_2927.jpg

    IMG_2929.jpg

    IMG_2930.jpg

    This thread is part of this thread... http://www.millerwelds.com/resources...lp-w-fix-ideas
    Last edited by PortlandGuy; 03-20-2012 at 06:55 PM.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Los Angeles
    Posts
    2,864

    Default

    For the way you have it built I might be inclined to grind down or cut off the horizontal supports to match the angle of the legs and then cut a piece of Flat stock the width of both legs and cover/cap both holes at once- may provide some extra support, dunno really. Flat stock is relatively cheap.

    Same idea for the Top holes on the Legs.
    Ed Conley
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  8. #8
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Posts
    16

    Default it's done

    Besides paint for the cart, it's done, finally. What an effort this one was.

    I ended up with a working height of 30" (man height versus midget height) and the front end will drop to the ground for those nasty pieces of 30" plus dia. oak and other wet heavy wood that'll break a back. I didn't want to engineer a vertical standing machine when a 'stooping' machine will do the same work for much less effort.

    You guys sure helped me tremendously and I am grateful.

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    Log Splitter, two IMG_2934.jpg

    Log Splitter, three IMG_2935.jpg

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    Last edited by PortlandGuy; 03-21-2012 at 01:53 PM.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    West Farmington, OH
    Posts
    746

    Default

    Generally when I cap square tubing in an application such as this, I cut the cap to fit inside the tube then fuse a bead with TIG around the perimeter of the tube and lightly sand it prior to painting. I'm not saying my way is any more right than the advice the others gave you, it's just different.

    The one thing though that I would have done is where the bolts go through the square tubing I would have made a sleeve to go through the tubing where the bolt is going to be and TIG welded it on each side of the tubing so when you tighten the bolts you don't crush the tubing.
    Blondie (Owner C & S Automotive)

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  10. #10
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Posts
    16

    Default

    Sleeves inside the square tubing is a great idea. The squishing power of those bolts was bothering me

    Quote Originally Posted by Blondie_486 View Post
    Generally when I cap square tubing in an application such as this, I cut the cap to fit inside the tube then fuse a bead with TIG around the perimeter of the tube and lightly sand it prior to painting. I'm not saying my way is any more right than the advice the others gave you, it's just different.

    The one thing though that I would have done is where the bolts go through the square tubing I would have made a sleeve to go through the tubing where the bolt is going to be and TIG welded it on each side of the tubing so when you tighten the bolts you don't crush the tubing.

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