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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Estevan, Sask
    Posts
    111

    Default Remote out of control

    Need help Cruizer! I put my new cover on my TB302 the other day, that I recently got from you. It was a little below 0C when I started working the machine in the morning and it warmed up to about +5 in the afternoon. I noticed that I had to keep turning down my remote as the day went on and finally I went out to check the amp readout with the remote set to the minimum. With the machine dial at max, the display was reading 82!! I removed the cover and about 15 minutes or so later the readout was back to normal as was the performance. Is this a this typical thing for the TB? Am I going to have to remove the cover after the machine warms up?
    Thanks
    Bryan
    P.S. I am sending you a PM.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    southern California
    Posts
    1,783

    Default

    The machine is designed to work with a certain amount of air flow around it. If you have a cover on it that hinders the air flow and causes it to overheat, then you're going to experience problems with the machine and probly a short service life too. All the machine covers I have had specific instructions with them that said the cover was to be removed when operating the machine.
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  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Estevan, Sask
    Posts
    111

    Default

    The covers that Cruizer supplies have openings for air flow and the front completely zips open and has straps to keep it open. It was open while it was running. With this design, one would expect that the cover is to be left on for winter operation. I was thinking that perhaps there is something not quite right with the electronics, as I had simmilar problems this summer with the remote not controlling consistently on hot days. Cruizer sent me a new clairistat(?) but I still notice some variation as to how low the remote will turn the amps down to. Has any one else noticed this problem with their TB's?

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Edmonton, Alberta
    Posts
    7,834

    Default

    Since there are around a 600 of these same covers around with zero reports of problems over 2 years, I don't see the cover as being the issue as I see guys running them in the Summer.

    Do you have a Continental heat kit. IF so turn it off and leave it off. Completely remove it as I do when the units with them arrive for repair.

    Was it one of my remotes?, if not check the machine amphenol for moisture or if the cable sheathing pulled out of the machine amphenol.

    Mine you won't have that problem as it's completely sealed

    If the cable sheathing has pulled out, you will want to disconnect the remote untill you have that fixed. Others use the amphenol cable clamp which I don't as it is the leading cause of amphenol failure.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Estevan, Sask
    Posts
    111

    Default

    Hi Cruizer. No I don't believe it has any sort of heat kit that I know of. The remote is a factory unit. As far as I know the cords are still good, but I will check them over tomorrow again. I will also put the cover back on again as the temp is now normal for this time of year and see how that goes.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Estevan, Sask
    Posts
    111

    Default

    Checked the cords today and they appear to be ok. Put the cover on again. The readout and amperage did climb again when the machine got warmed up although not like it did when it was warmer out. It was up at one point by about 25 amps from what it should have been according to the dial on the remote. When I shut the machine down at lunch it was reading 98 and after cooling down for a half hour it was down to 91 and then back up in a few minutes again It appears to be a temperature related phenomenon to me, but as I keep telling the guys at work "I'm just a welder - what the **** do I know!"

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Corunna Ont, Canada
    Posts
    450

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Shep View Post
    Checked the cords today and they appear to be ok. Put the cover on again. The readout and amperage did climb again when the machine got warmed up although not like it did when it was warmer out. It was up at one point by about 25 amps from what it should have been according to the dial on the remote. When I shut the machine down at lunch it was reading 98 and after cooling down for a half hour it was down to 91 and then back up in a few minutes again It appears to be a temperature related phenomenon to me, but as I keep telling the guys at work "I'm just a welder - what the **** do I know!"

    Hey Shep does the machine weld hotter or is it just showing the numbers going up??

    remember back oh about this ago there is still machines that don't have digital displays and no matter the temp outside or inside the machine if the weld puddle has not changed JUST WELD get over the number thing.

    Some times we all get caught up in all the tech stuff and forget about the simple things we use to do like strike the arc and find it too hot turn it down or up..................

    sorry but this seem like something dumb to worry about unless it is changing the welding rod temp too, i would just move on keep welding.

    I make the young lad that I am teaching to weld figure it out by putting black tape over all the read outs so he can learn by the "feel" of the rod.

    Railmen

    sorry that is my $.02 tonight.
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    Railmen

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Estevan, Sask
    Posts
    111

    Default

    Hi Railmen. Ya the puddle getting hotter is the problem. If I didn't notice that I wouldn't care what the readout says. The first time I put the cover on the outside temp reached about 5c and by mid afternoon I was having a little trouble putting in my root pass on 2"sch40 as the remote would not go lower than 82 amps +- Took the cover off and soon the remote was back to normal

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Edmonton, Alberta
    Posts
    7,834

    Default

    I'm not a 100% sure whats going on, as the front vents cool the generator, and the rear holes allow that air to get out. All the cover basically does is not allow cold air to freeze the internal carb vacumn vents.

    No one has reported a problem other than fitment for, well forever. Never the less, I'll research it and perhaps make a few changes.

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