The condenser cleaner worked!
I'm getting cleaner welds and grooving them with the burr is paying off as well. A lot of them are still ugly round beads like a poor boob job but the others are looking homogenous and smooth. Just need a lot more practice.
Results 11 to 20 of 40
11-29-2009, 03:01 PM #11
11-29-2009, 08:46 PM #12
When we do repairs on our stockcar (modified) ,we have to boil out the oil pans.Then clean the cracks with acetone.
we had a steff's oil pan give us fits until we did the above.
Love the power of Blue
Lots of Tools!
11-30-2009, 04:50 AM #13Senior Member
- Join Date
- Nov 2005
Just what I've read -
Guys that weld repair Harley engine and tranny cases say to wash the case,
stick it in an oven low heat, bake it till oil comes to surface, wash repeat.
Keep doing till no more oil.
11-30-2009, 01:53 PM #14Senior Member
- Join Date
- Jun 2008
Important to know
Read the link below. It appears to be true so I would rather everybody is safe and not sorry by using the wrong cleaners etc...
Hope that helps,
DaveOxy/Ac Large Tanks
Miller Swinger AC 180 (SOLD)
Miller Syncrowave 250DX Runner with Pulser
12-01-2009, 06:05 PM #15Senior Member
- Join Date
- Feb 2007
- West Farmington, OH
I don't use chemical cleaners for such things. Normally with some patience I'm able to get all of the oil out of a casting prior to welding with my trusty O/A torch and grinders (mostly the die grinder).Blondie (Owner C & S Automotive)
Colt the original point & click interface!
Millermatic 35 with spot panel
Victor O/A torches
Too many other tools to list
03 Ram 1500
82 GL1100 Interstate
12-15-2009, 07:29 PM #16
You predicted this would be a difficult learning project You were right.
Initially it went well with the big messes and holes being closed up OK. Ugly but OK.
From your comments I learnt of the HAZ and am starting to think of that because it's probably where I'm suffering now.
I am grinding, drilling, welding, repeat, chasing cracks and pinholes. I just can't get ahead of it.
After the frustration of this evening I noted the flange was getting even more warped so I said a good normalizing was needed. Thusly I coated the whole pan with soot and burnt it off ala Fournier so maybe there will be less stresses in the metal tomorrow? I'll put it into the Phosphoric acid in the morning too.
I can't remember a thing from college Thermodynamics beyond Body-Center-Dot. Do I need to go back to school again to get this done?
12-16-2009, 07:08 AM #17Senior Member
- Join Date
- Sep 2005
- 16919 Pole Rd. Brethren, MI 49619
Just out of curiosity, how about welding a patch over it?
12-16-2009, 09:00 AM #18
I'll have another shot at it today and if I can't whip it I'll try a patch. I hate to give up though.
Maybe try a square insert and butt the edges? Another learning experience
12-16-2009, 09:32 AM #19
12-16-2009, 09:47 AM #20
Excelllent idea and so obvious. I've got one on the stand ten feet away.
I am clamping it to the steel benchtop and the normalizng took some of the curve out. The cracks look just the same after stop drilling. If I weld one side they merely migrate to the other side. I pondered gasketing the pan to the bench and putting argon into the pan, presumably at the same pressure as the torch but I would have to vent it so as not to overpressurize. That however, is not the root problem here.
It may well be time to cut it out and patch it....