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  1. #21
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Lancaster, Pa
    Posts
    431

    Default

    I often had the same question you did and would throw the parts away if they were cracked. Then I asked a friend of mine who has a shop and does welding every day for a living. He had told me it is the same as welding aluminum and you use aluminum filler. Don't take my word though, see what other responses you get.
    Ken

    What else is there besides welding and riding. Besides that

    Miller Thunderbolt XL 300/200 AC/DC
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    2009 FXDC

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Vancouver BC Canada
    Posts
    605

    Default Good thing its halloween cuz this is scary!!!!

    a picture is worth a thousand words.... and a few feet of wire and a couple of cubic feet of gas and few watthours of electricity.....


    Before.... and after to follow...tomorrow sometime..
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by SignWave; 10-27-2007 at 09:00 PM.
    Will it weld? I loooove electricity!

    Miller 251/30A spool
    Syncro200
    Spectrum 625
    O/A
    Precix 5x10 CNC Router12"Z
    Standard modern lathe
    Cheap Chinese mill that does the trick... sort of...
    horizontal 7x12 bandsaw
    Roland XC540 PRO III
    54" laminator
    hammer and screwdriver (most used)
    little dog
    pooper scooper (2nd most used...)

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    British Columbia
    Posts
    162

    Post

    sorry to hear about the motor. sounds like somebody violated every orifice and raped it. I'd imagine its weldable, should be aluminum cast. Aluminum cast parts and anything over 1/4 " benefit from pre-heating. put part in oven at 350 degrees F until it's heated evenly. for example an aluminum head should be pre-heated for at least an hour. (with a head its hard to clamp the head into a fixture or jig so expect a slight amount of warpage from the welding and the heat treatment, expect to shave the head to remove the warpage once done) just dont know if it's practical or how long it would last. and would it be square and flush to the world? best to ask the manufacture the characteristics of the metal casting.If you can't weld on new studs can you drill and tap? don't know the motor so i don't understand. Is it a threaded stud siezed and broken in a hole ? it's possible, if using the right rod, to build on the broken stud untill it's out of the hole, then you can get a nut welded on. It takes skill and a special type rod so it doesent stick to the threads and splatter while your in there. A welder in calgary ab named wendal (great welder,great guy) used this method on siezed, broken bolts while we did undercarriage on dozers and excavators when I was there. It worked great. It was super fast compared to drilling it out and tapping. I'll try to find out what kind of rod he's using. think you'll be done by next summer? lol the boat might have you done by next summer. so what's the plan for the motor? mabey you can get anouther junker and make one out of two if it doesn't start? I doubt it but just a thought. weld up the crack, paint, and get rid of her if it's too far gone. someone will buy it for parts. think you'll be able to get her goin? the boat's always fixable I just hope the motor works out for you. I can't imagine a honda 4 being cheap.
    get lots of pictures when you tear down the motor. I'm having picture withdrawls................................

    Dustyhaze75
    Last edited by Dustyhaze75; 10-29-2007 at 09:47 AM.
    Syncro250DX Tigrunner
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  4. #24
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Vancouver BC Canada
    Posts
    605

    Default Chitty chitty bang bang.Chitty chitty bang bang.

    The Engine I think may be toast. The ignition exciter coil is missing and the mounts under the fly wheel for this coil have been broken off. Some smart guy must have figured he cold use these "pillars" to lever against to remove the flywheel or the timing belt crankshaft gear.

    Anyway, Ive found an engine adn with some luck , perseverance, and skill, I shold be able to rebuild one from the two. easy peasy....riiiiiight.......truge forth younger fisher, for the salmon await their demise as causeds by your ever grumbling stomach...

    I sepnt the week end sealing all the holes in the deck, hull, and superstructure. I added a splashguard to the engine well and im going to be adding a piece of aluminum to the console so that I can raise the height by 8 or so inches. That will make it more comfportable to drive while standing..

    Its agood thing that were coming up on winter. If it were spring and I was tryin gto do this rework, I'd be running around like a chicken without its head in an attempt to make this happen sooner than later..

    I'll go get som epics of what Ive done, But in the meantime, can someone offer their critique of whats going on in the weld pic ive posted below?
    notice how th right side looks like dimes bu tthe left doesnt...w.t.h am I doing wrong....?
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by SignWave; 10-29-2007 at 12:41 PM.
    Will it weld? I loooove electricity!

    Miller 251/30A spool
    Syncro200
    Spectrum 625
    O/A
    Precix 5x10 CNC Router12"Z
    Standard modern lathe
    Cheap Chinese mill that does the trick... sort of...
    horizontal 7x12 bandsaw
    Roland XC540 PRO III
    54" laminator
    hammer and screwdriver (most used)
    little dog
    pooper scooper (2nd most used...)

  5. #25
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Vancouver BC Canada
    Posts
    605

    Default say cheese.... oops i mean aluminum!!!

    some b4naftr mugs. not a whole lot but progress none the less.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Will it weld? I loooove electricity!

    Miller 251/30A spool
    Syncro200
    Spectrum 625
    O/A
    Precix 5x10 CNC Router12"Z
    Standard modern lathe
    Cheap Chinese mill that does the trick... sort of...
    horizontal 7x12 bandsaw
    Roland XC540 PRO III
    54" laminator
    hammer and screwdriver (most used)
    little dog
    pooper scooper (2nd most used...)

  6. #26
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Vancouver BC Canada
    Posts
    605

    Default this is what happens when you let a crazy man loose...

    hehehehehehehe... Is it safe? Is it SAFE?!
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Will it weld? I loooove electricity!

    Miller 251/30A spool
    Syncro200
    Spectrum 625
    O/A
    Precix 5x10 CNC Router12"Z
    Standard modern lathe
    Cheap Chinese mill that does the trick... sort of...
    horizontal 7x12 bandsaw
    Roland XC540 PRO III
    54" laminator
    hammer and screwdriver (most used)
    little dog
    pooper scooper (2nd most used...)

  7. #27
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Vancouver BC Canada
    Posts
    605

    Default just a few more...

    Anybody know how to remove that black urethane adhesive? that stuff is a real pain the the a s s ... heres a few more pics.. Ill have to get one of the engine... just so you can see what i mean about "professional mechanicism".

    Ever heard the sayings: " you dont need it", "it'll be fine." , "whats that for? oh well... seems to be okay." uhg.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by SignWave; 10-29-2007 at 12:58 PM.
    Will it weld? I loooove electricity!

    Miller 251/30A spool
    Syncro200
    Spectrum 625
    O/A
    Precix 5x10 CNC Router12"Z
    Standard modern lathe
    Cheap Chinese mill that does the trick... sort of...
    horizontal 7x12 bandsaw
    Roland XC540 PRO III
    54" laminator
    hammer and screwdriver (most used)
    little dog
    pooper scooper (2nd most used...)

  8. #28
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Vancouver BC Canada
    Posts
    605

    Default aluminum welds input

    If anyone woul dlike to critique my weldments, Your constructive input is greatly appreciated.

    thanks Rich.
    Will it weld? I loooove electricity!

    Miller 251/30A spool
    Syncro200
    Spectrum 625
    O/A
    Precix 5x10 CNC Router12"Z
    Standard modern lathe
    Cheap Chinese mill that does the trick... sort of...
    horizontal 7x12 bandsaw
    Roland XC540 PRO III
    54" laminator
    hammer and screwdriver (most used)
    little dog
    pooper scooper (2nd most used...)

  9. #29
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    British Columbia
    Posts
    162

    Post boat.........

    Wow you've been busy. you got alot more done than I expected. to remove the urethane adhesive use a chemical gasket remover. this stuff is amazing. We used to use it on the new tracks that came from the factory, with the 1/2 " of paint on the side that the pads are supposed to go on. spray it on and leave it for a while, you'll notice rait away it starts to bubble. after a few min. the paint will wipe rait off clean. the longer you leave it work the easier the paint will come off. the metal looks like its hard to get clean with all the deep gouges. are you able to get all the contaminants out of the metal before welding? this could be the problem with your bead. Ya .........you should be able to weld that no problem. it would be best to pre heat before welding. Large aircraft engine repair shops pre-heat cracked and broken cast-aluminum cylinder heads at 350 F until it's evenly heated,before welding takes place. glad to hear you found anouther engine.
    it should take you no time at all, the rate your going eh? you don't piss around do ya? lol. she's lookin good. get er done ! get er done! hopefully you can get a decent engine out of the two. could be strait forward or could be a complete nightmare. good luck and don't give up. be smarter than the metal !
    Syncro250DX Tigrunner
    Victor set
    Elite auto-helmet
    Dewalt Bench grinder
    Mastercraft miter saw
    Mac air tools
    Mac hand tools
    Toothbrush
    pencil
    toilet paper

  10. #30
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Vancouver BC Canada
    Posts
    605

    Default

    ah yes good old methelyne chloride. I'll give it a shot. Grinding , sanding, scraping is fruitless. that urethane rubber crap either smears, jiggles , or slides under the implement.

    That trim on the bow is coming off. I need to take the engine off too so that I can repair the transom. Im quite sure the stiffener ( a 2x6)in the transom is rotted out and needs to be looked at. All those holes need to be addressed as well. So i have to make an engine stand now.. Uhg.

    Im going to have to flip the boat over too. I want to have a real good look at the hull, maybe paint it with some antifouling paint. Just a thought.

    I almost had a fire going in the bow cabinet... Well i did have fire. When i was sealing all the hole topside at the point, the heat caused the urethane foam in the bow to catch fire.. I had to hose it out. That stuff stinks...oops..
    Will it weld? I loooove electricity!

    Miller 251/30A spool
    Syncro200
    Spectrum 625
    O/A
    Precix 5x10 CNC Router12"Z
    Standard modern lathe
    Cheap Chinese mill that does the trick... sort of...
    horizontal 7x12 bandsaw
    Roland XC540 PRO III
    54" laminator
    hammer and screwdriver (most used)
    little dog
    pooper scooper (2nd most used...)

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