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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Posts
    347

    Default Roller Stand Project for Ellis Bandsaw

    I'm finally getting around to building roller tables for my Ellis 1800. I ordered 1.9" x 18" rollers from Surplas Center. My left side stand will be 14' with rollers on 12" centers. The right side will be 8' long also with rollers on 12" centers.

    The wall my saw sits against is about 36 feet long, so I have plenty of room on both sides of the saw. I plan to bolt the roller tables down to the floor along with the saw. One thing I plan to do is build a frame underneath the saw to raise it up 8" to a more comfortable working height. I've been using the saw set up on blocks to get used to the higher working height and I like it much better.

    I also plan to buy the measuring tape that you peel and stick onto the roller frame to help measure for cuts. That and I will integrate an adjustable stop into the frame for repeating cuts. Perhaps I can figure out a way to reuse the stop the saw comes with.

    I'm looking for feedback on things to do/not to do from those who have built similar tables, so any comments are welcomed.

    Thanks
    Millermatic 35
    Miller TB302G
    Ellis 1800
    Smith & Victor Torches
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  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Delhi, Ontario:
    Posts
    1,963

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by garybdavis View Post
    I'm finally getting around to building roller tables for my Ellis 1800. I ordered 1.9" x 18" rollers from Surplas Center. My left side stand will be 14' with rollers on 12" centers. The right side will be 8' long also with rollers on 12" centers.

    The wall my saw sits against is about 36 feet long, so I have plenty of room on both sides of the saw. I plan to bolt the roller tables down to the floor along with the saw. One thing I plan to do is build a frame underneath the saw to raise it up 8" to a more comfortable working height. I've been using the saw set up on blocks to get used to the higher working height and I like it much better.

    I also plan to buy the measuring tape that you peel and stick onto the roller frame to help measure for cuts. That and I will integrate an adjustable stop into the frame for repeating cuts. Perhaps I can figure out a way to reuse the stop the saw comes with.

    I'm looking for feedback on things to do/not to do from those who have built similar tables, so any comments are welcomed.

    Thanks
    Hello

    Don't forget pictures as you go along !!

    ............ Norm

    Sunrise Outside My Shop In Delhi, Ontario

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  3. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Posts
    347

    Default

    Okay, the rollers came in so I'm ready to get started. I went to order the adhesive measuring tape from woodworker’s supply and got caught up in the rail systems they sell for miter saws. Kreg brand seems to be the most popular. They have aluminum rails with a recessed track to install the tape and a stop block that locks in to the rail with a sight glass that goes over the tape measure. I was thinking about getting one of these and bolting it onto the back side of my roller stand. Anyone integrate something like this into a similar project? I could use a recommendation on Kreg or any other brand. Something that is fairly heavy duty and not too flimsy.
    Millermatic 35
    Miller TB302G
    Ellis 1800
    Smith & Victor Torches
    Optrel Satellite
    Arcair K4000
    Ingersoll-Rand 175CFM Diesel Air Compressor
    Home Made Welding Trailer

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    WY...armpit of U.S.A.
    Posts
    659

    Default

    I believe you might end up happier and get the job done much more cheaply using both the adhesive backed tape as well as utilizing the Ellis style stop rod for your roller table. Even recessed into the back/top of your roller table the aluminum track is not going to live a long and healthy life if you do much cutting on steel unless you bring out the kid gloves...just too much weight and mass to deal with.
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  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Posts
    1,508

    Default

    If or when you build this stand I’m interested in how you build it to compensate for the swing of the motor, and the flatbar radius kill bar. I built one for my Ellis, and I’m not satisfied at all! Even though it’s working fine, there has to be some better ideas out there! I’ am looking forward to see how you build yours.
    Last edited by Sonora Iron; 12-03-2009 at 10:36 AM.
    Caution!
    These are "my" views based only on “my” experiences in “my” little bitty world.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    northern NJ
    Posts
    1,821

    Default

    What we did for a stop setup on a Haberle cold saw was on the back side of the roller table we mounted a pc. of uni-strut laying on it's side. Cut a block to fit inside that slid easily & had a tapped hole. Then a pc. of 2x2 angle on the outside which would bolt to the block. When tightened it would lock in place. One leg of the angle pointed away from the uni-strut & this is what the material would hit as a stop.
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  7. #7
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Posts
    347

    Default

    Good feedback. I think the aluminum rail would get beat up a bit and I like the unistrut idea. I could put the adhesive on top of it where it wouldn't get too scratched up. Anyone want to post some pics of their roller stand/tables? Good or bad, it helps to see what others have done.
    Millermatic 35
    Miller TB302G
    Ellis 1800
    Smith & Victor Torches
    Optrel Satellite
    Arcair K4000
    Ingersoll-Rand 175CFM Diesel Air Compressor
    Home Made Welding Trailer

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Posts
    1,508

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by garybdavis View Post
    Anyone want to post some pics of their roller stand/tables? Good or bad, it helps to see what others have done.



    Caution!
    These are "my" views based only on “my” experiences in “my” little bitty world.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Posts
    347

    Default

    Jesus,

    Thanks for the pics. I plan to leave a gap between the roller stand and the saw, at least on the left side, to give me reach in room for the swivel adjustment and to operate the hydraulic up/down control. I'm still undecided about leaving a gap on the right side or bringing the table all the way up to the saw table. Is that the issues you have?
    Millermatic 35
    Miller TB302G
    Ellis 1800
    Smith & Victor Torches
    Optrel Satellite
    Arcair K4000
    Ingersoll-Rand 175CFM Diesel Air Compressor
    Home Made Welding Trailer

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Posts
    1,508

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by garybdavis View Post
    I plan to leave a gap between the roller stand and the saw
    Oh yeah take the easy route!
    The part I don’t like about mine is the notch, (red arrow). The other part is the flatbar radius kill bar, (purple arrow) I thought about cutting it the width of the square tube I used for the table so I could move the table over and utilize more of my 12 inch rollers. But with almost 3 years of use it hasn’t been an issue yet. As you can tell I never was happy with my design or I would have painted it! When needed I have 6 or 8 portable roller jack stands I use on either side of the saw as needed?
    Caution!
    These are "my" views based only on “my” experiences in “my” little bitty world.

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