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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    British Columbia
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    162

    Question Anodized Aluminum........help ! ...........

    I went into the only steel supply shop in town to order some anodized 6061 square tubing for a cab protector/headache rack. They said they can't get anodized 6061, it's unavailable. They can't get 6063 at all either, unavailable.
    the only thing I can get is regular 6061 stock. I would get it anodized after fabrication but most places don't have a tank big enough to fit a full sized cab protector. my question is this........................................
    couldn't a guy build one with regular 6061 stock, polish it, then clearcoat it ?
    there must be a way to seal it without powdercoating etc. I herd there might be an anodizing spray you can buy. The guy said it's not nearly as good but would do the trick. Is there an anodizing spray ? I understand they use electical current when a part is anodized but I'm looking for any solutions. sending it out to get anodized is not an option. the part would be too expensive to ship(8 hr. travel time one way) and the part is too big for them to anodize. I might build my own tank to anodize the parts before I fabricate. Is this my only option ? I don't have the room and it would cost money(the tank would have to be long, to fit my largest piece, approx. 72 ")
    can anyone help me? Ive been banging my head off the wall for a couple nights now. The guy at the steel supply said it would be fine to use regular 6061, just polish it after and good to go. I thought aluminum starts to oxidize rait away after polishing. Thats where the clearcoat comes in. I live in the middle of British Columbia, approx.8 hours away from any ocean or salt water. tell me what you think. How long does it take to oxidize(dull) after polishing? Bang Bang................Bang Bang...........please help.
    Last edited by Dustyhaze75; 01-21-2008 at 05:22 AM.
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  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    wisconsin
    Posts
    836

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Dustyhaze75 View Post
    I went into the only steel supply shop in town to order some anodized 6061 square tubing for a cab protector/headache rack. They said they can't get anodized 6061, it's unavailable. They can't get 6063 at all either, unavailable.
    the only thing I can get is regular 6061 stock. I would get it anodized after fabrication but most places don't have a tank big enough to fit a full sized cab protector. my question is this........................................
    couldn't a guy build one with regular 6061 stock, polish it, then clearcoat it ?
    there must be a way to seal it without powdercoating etc. I herd there might be an anodizing spray you can buy. The guy said it's not nearly as good but would do the trick. Is there an anodizing spray ? I understand they use electical current when a part is anodized but I'm looking for any solutions. sending it out to get anodized is not an option. the part would be too expensive to ship(8 hr. travel time one way) and the part is too big for them to anodize. I might build my own tank to anodize the parts before I fabricate. Is this my only option ? I don't have the room and it would cost money(the tank would have to be long, to fit my largest piece, approx. 72 ")
    can anyone help me? Ive been banging my head off the wall for a couple nights now. The guy at the steel supply said it would be fine to use regular 6061, just polish it after and good to go. I thought aluminum starts to oxidize rait away after polishing. Thats where the clearcoat comes in. I live in the middle of British Columbia, approx.8 hours away from any ocean or salt water. tell me what you think. How long does it take to oxidize(dull) after polishing? Bang Bang................Bang Bang...........please help.

    Ok here are some answers for you

    1-Polish / Clearcoat is great until you get a stone chip ,enter filiform corrosion etc.

    2-No there is no anodize in a fizz can , its an electrolosis process of controlled oxide formation on the surface.

    3-If you want you can just polish and wax the 6061, thats all the guys do with polished aircraft props. But its a lot of work.

    The best paint process is:
    -clean
    -Etch
    -Alodine
    -Prime with sacrificial element primer for AL
    -Topcoat depending on primer used

    Hope this helps!!
    -Aaron
    "Better Metalworking Through Research"

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  3. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    arkansas
    Posts
    781

    Default

    makoman said it right. for signs we treat the aluminum hot caustic soap, etching, and then alodine/ chromic acid. a zinc chromate primer will do well in the place of alodine. but you MUST GET IT CLEAN!!!! no oil whatsoever. once the zinc primer is on, you can paint it. if you polish it and then clearcoat, it will peel, doesnt matter about rock chips or not, its gonna go bad. if you anodized before welding, what would you do to protect the places that you welded?

    the best option for you is to, clean it, etch it, and primer it (you may have to scuff the surface with a scotch brite pad). then paint. it works with a twenty year warranty for a sign that sees all of the elements.
    welder_one

    nothing fancy, just a few hot glue guns for metal
    www.sicfabrications.com

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    British Columbia
    Posts
    162

    Post anodized ........

    I herd that you could seal the welded areas with sheffield silver paint or aluminum colored rustoleum. what do you think? thanks for the reply. it has helped me out alot. the gears in my head have finally slowed down lol. Whats your take on using wax? whats the best kind to use? again, thanks for taking the time to reply. I appreciate it.
    Last edited by Dustyhaze75; 10-19-2007 at 05:31 PM.
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  5. #5
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Vancouver BC Canada
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    605

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    Hey Dusty,
    Dont bother with any of that c r a p. there isnt a single rack in Vancouver that is anodized. not one.
    I know that you can get a gloss finished stock (help me out here guys) I dont know what it would be called but its around. 1 1/2 x 1 1/2" x 1/8" should be about three bucks a foot, maybe a bit more.

    personally, Aluminum stands up pretty good to the weather. you could go with a 5083 or 86 grade. it is very corosion proof. 5086 is used im marine apps. 5083 is used to make tankers... call the guy back and see what you can find out about this glossy sh t. I know its out there.

    anybody here know what im talking about?
    Will it weld? I loooove electricity!

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  6. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Lake of the Ozarks MO
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    3,593

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    Look for BDA...Brite Dip Aluminum
    believe it....think MARINE.... they make what you want, and in my exp. a steel place is about the worst place to get aluminum. I just got a sheet of 5052 today and I really can't imagine buying any steel from those guys either!!

    BTW if you do make your own anodizing setup make sure you document everything and post it!!!

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Vancouver BC Canada
    Posts
    605

    Default

    here here...
    Will it weld? I loooove electricity!

    Miller 251/30A spool
    Syncro200
    Spectrum 625
    O/A
    Precix 5x10 CNC Router12"Z
    Standard modern lathe
    Cheap Chinese mill that does the trick... sort of...
    horizontal 7x12 bandsaw
    Roland XC540 PRO III
    54" laminator
    hammer and screwdriver (most used)
    little dog
    pooper scooper (2nd most used...)

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    British Columbia
    Posts
    162

    Post anodize

    thanks ......I got a metal book on order. cant tell im a noobie or anything eh? lmao. I'll go down and talk to the guy tomorrow. I thought the shinny stuff was 6063. marine metal supplyers? now were cookin. they don't anodize down on the coast? I cant thank you guys enough. Ive been going crazy. 500 opinions and none of them match. I looked over the whole forum just to get more confused. Its becoming rocket science. mabey I'll just invent my own metal lol. be easyer. know any good marine metal supplyers down on the coast ? thanks for saving me from a disaster.
    Last edited by Dustyhaze75; 10-19-2007 at 06:49 PM.
    Syncro250DX Tigrunner
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  9. #9
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Vancouver BC Canada
    Posts
    605

    Default

    If you add "m" to anything double the price... Money, Marine, Motion picture, Maviation, Motorcycle, Miller???

    dont go looking for a marine metal supplier, ask for 5086 or 5083. dont ever mention the m word. mind you the racks are all made from 6061. trust me save yoursefl some more grief and go looking for 6061T6. Never mind about anodizing. its not necessary. Your going to create an item that will always be saleable... end of story. those rack go gfor about 300 - 550 dollars each here.

    there are anodizers in Vancouver. look them up on 411.ca if you're still inclined.

    Good luck Dusty.
    Will it weld? I loooove electricity!

    Miller 251/30A spool
    Syncro200
    Spectrum 625
    O/A
    Precix 5x10 CNC Router12"Z
    Standard modern lathe
    Cheap Chinese mill that does the trick... sort of...
    horizontal 7x12 bandsaw
    Roland XC540 PRO III
    54" laminator
    hammer and screwdriver (most used)
    little dog
    pooper scooper (2nd most used...)

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    British Columbia
    Posts
    162

    Post anodize

    dont say the M word ! lol lol ........ok i'm going to take your advise. Thats what I thought. I just needed someone to tell me that. thanks signwave. the "m" words..................it's all too true. never thought of it. you saved my *** once again. I'll make one and see how it goes ................wish me luck.
    Syncro250DX Tigrunner
    Victor set
    Elite auto-helmet
    Dewalt Bench grinder
    Mastercraft miter saw
    Mac air tools
    Mac hand tools
    Toothbrush
    pencil
    toilet paper

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