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  1. #11
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    16919 Pole Rd. Brethren, MI 49619
    Posts
    4,363

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    I agree they they are safe numbers, no doubt about it but it would add significantly to the cost.

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Vancouver BC Canada
    Posts
    605

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    You can still cheat a bit. Its heat that will kill any cable.. the insulation is the weak link..
    A 14guage wire is good for about 90 amps but everything is so derated for safety that its rediculous. Safety first though. I dont think putting 50 amps through a #8 wire is too excessive. If you read the info stamped into the power cable of a 200dx or 251(2) you'll see that its a #8 even though the machines are rated for around 65 amps. 65 amps is about 25A over the rating on most Romex type cables and SOW cord... Im willing to bet that a #8 cable could handle 275 amps easy, but it might be smoking hot..in turn destroying the insulation and shorting or starting a fire...

    I have a 25ft #8 extension cord that I made to get that extra reach into the drive way for those jobs that just cant come in too far.. Works great, no worries, Im happy.
    Will it weld? I loooove electricity!

    Miller 251/30A spool
    Syncro200
    Spectrum 625
    O/A
    Precix 5x10 CNC Router12"Z
    Standard modern lathe
    Cheap Chinese mill that does the trick... sort of...
    horizontal 7x12 bandsaw
    Roland XC540 PRO III
    54" laminator
    hammer and screwdriver (most used)
    little dog
    pooper scooper (2nd most used...)

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Otsego,MN
    Posts
    51

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    Thanks guys for the help, i dont plan on doing alot of stick welding with the new TB302 but want to have some long leads just in case, thats why im wondering what i can get away with for size due to the cost of 2.70 a foot for 1 gauge!! any ideas on where to get a good deal would be great!! thanks again!!

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    16919 Pole Rd. Brethren, MI 49619
    Posts
    4,363

    Default

    They do allow 8 for use to 100A on some machines.

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Vancouver BC Canada
    Posts
    605

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by walleye1 View Post
    Thanks guys for the help, i dont plan on doing alot of stick welding with the new TB302 but want to have some long leads just in case, thats why im wondering what i can get away with for size due to the cost of 2.70 a foot for 1 gauge!! any ideas on where to get a good deal would be great!! thanks again!!

    TRy your local electrical ditributor(s) look in the phone book under wire and cable.. As Well, once you get a price from the ditributor, check the home depot.. they do have home depot in your neck of the woods right?
    Aikenheads???
    http://www.millermotorsports.com/mbo...ead.php?t=8712 check this link out.

    May I suggest:
    cost out the price to make and extension cord rather than tryin gto make longer welding leads.. You just might find that you can make a "primary side" cord cheaper than it will be to make "secondary side" cables to the ground clamp and electrode...

    this make sence for two reasons, first is volatge drop associated to long runs of cable with low voltage and high current and the second is the cost of these same cables. Since a single copper stranded conductor of say #1 awg wieghs Xpounds per foot, you will pay a premium price. Secondly it makes better sence and is more economical as well as practical to run a longer wire at higher voltage.

    consider it this way, ( i hope im not over expalining here)

    your welder pretty much just transforms volatege and current. you put in 240 and you get out 12 to 36 volts. input current is low and out put current is high..
    typpicaly 240v 65 amps in and 30V 50 to 400Amps out.. do you see the connection?

    anyway, its cheaper to run a high(er) voltage conductor because you dont need so much mass to carry the current and your I2R losses are minimal. if on the other hand you want to run secondary extensions, you will need big fat cables to overcome the voltage drop and resultant power losses . ever tried to jump a car with an extesion cord? its a no go.. same thing here. the longer the secondary run, the less voltage and power at the welding end due to the heat created by the current that is passing through the cable. the more heat, the more resistance and the less power at the welding end. its a downward cycle. I hope this makes sence. I know its all over the place but its really a hard thing to explain. the physics heres is based on I2R losses. ( I squared R where I = current in amperes and R= resistance in ohms therefor current x current x resistance=power (in Watts) in this case it wold be the loss.

    suffice it to say tha tyou can save yourself a whack of money by making an extension cord and keeping your welding leads short.. I hope i have been able to help.. Ive got verbal diareah tonight...
    Last edited by SignWave; 10-18-2007 at 12:21 AM.
    Will it weld? I loooove electricity!

    Miller 251/30A spool
    Syncro200
    Spectrum 625
    O/A
    Precix 5x10 CNC Router12"Z
    Standard modern lathe
    Cheap Chinese mill that does the trick... sort of...
    horizontal 7x12 bandsaw
    Roland XC540 PRO III
    54" laminator
    hammer and screwdriver (most used)
    little dog
    pooper scooper (2nd most used...)

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