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  1. #11
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Phoenix,Az
    Posts
    25

    Thumbs up band saw blade welding

    Hey out there-I weld them all the time-I tig weld them , very low power, like 10A and I use 1/32 mild steel filler. I made an aluminum fixture and clamp both ends to it and there is a relief cut into the aluminum under the weld bead about 1/4 inch wide. After you weld it -grind it smooth both sides and you will have to anneal it with a torch around the welded area-heat it (it doesn't take much) till it looks straw to purple in color and you have it! With a little practice you can weld them from one side only -the annealing is critical-if it's not annealed-it will break-remember-GOOD WELD -- THEN ANNEAL- If you have to grind it again, then anneal it again. Good luck
    Jim

  2. #12
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Muskogee Oklahoma
    Posts
    245

    Default

    Or, you could do what I did and buy a bandsaw blade welder. It's made by Stryco. Bought it at a auction for $20 and it paid for it's self a long time ago.

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Posts
    19

    Default

    I make all of my own blades from large coils of stock. I have tig'd them before with some success, but the only good way to do them is silver soldering them. You must get the right silver solder though. Very high silver content. A small bit will go a L O N G way. I have a nice jig that holds the blade together and aligns the edges for a true blade.

    Grant

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Raymore Missouri
    Posts
    1,920

    Default

    I agree. I slightly tapered each end to give an overlap of maybe a 1/4" inch and used silver solder(the good stuff) and the blade is still hanging in there and that was in 2007. No mig...no tig...just a propane torch, flux and solder.
    Nick
    Nick
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  5. #15

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by monte55 View Post
    I agree. I slightly tapered each end to give an overlap of maybe a 1/4" inch and used silver solder(the good stuff) and the blade is still hanging in there and that was in 2007. No mig...no tig...just a propane torch, flux and solder.
    Nick
    To add to monte, make sure you polish the ends to be welded with clean emery cloth and then apply soldering flux before joining the ends...
    2 Miller Dynasty 350's
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  6. #16
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Hazelwood Mo USA
    Posts
    456

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by jackalope View Post
    I make all of my own blades from large coils of stock. I have tig'd them before with some success, but the only good way to do them is silver soldering them. You must get the right silver solder though. Very high silver content. A small bit will go a L O N G way. I have a nice jig that holds the blade together and aligns the edges for a true blade.

    Grant
    That is good to know, I never considered silvering it.........
    mike sr

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    835

    Default

    That's right.

    The goal is ductile.

    The blade isn't under a huge amount of tension, but boy does it flex many many times.
    Equipped with red and blue... and red and green!
    80% of failures are from 20% of causes
    Never compromise your principles today in the name of furthering them in the future.
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  8. #18
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    NY
    Posts
    103

    Default

    Call me crazy but I have used one of these: On repair of blade we would cut off previously heated metal.


    http://cgi.ebay.com/Dayton-6a489-bla...d=200327783943

  9. #19

    Default Thanks

    I took fatfabs advise and it worked fine. One blade was brand new and was to coarse to cut thin angle iron and broke right away and the other was broken out of the box. That is why I wanted to save them.
    I am back in business.
    Thanks Again,
    Steve

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    south-central Pa
    Posts
    11

    Default

    i know a guy that brazed a bandsaw together with oxy/ac. might wanna try that??

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