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  1. #11

    Default

    Thanks for the help. I tried scotchbrite and acetone on both the base and the filler. I increased the flow a little, and tried your recommendations with the angles. Came out much better. I think I probably had the flow to low, and using a scotchbrite instead of sandpaper to clean up my filler helped. I'll keep practicing, but the welds were much better. Must have had contamination somewhere, and just more attention to cleaning makes all the difference.

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Posts
    26

    Default

    I'm having a similar problem.

    350 amps, 1/8 toungsten, 1/8 filler, 5/8 cup, 30cfh argon. Welding 1/4 to 1/2" lap joint.

    I cant get the filler to the puddle before it oxidizes.

    I Scotch brited the 4043 filler. Not helping.

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Los Angeles
    Posts
    1,167

    Default

    Is that a #10 cup?
    Nothing welded, Nothing gained

    Miller Dynasty700DX
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    6 foot x 12 foot Mojave granite

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Posts
    26

    Default

    The best way I have found to get my filler into the puddle is to pull the torch back to the heal of the puddle slightly. Then I can completely remove the rod from the shielding gas and get good bead aperance. I think the high amperage is cooking the filler rod on the edge of my gas shield before I can get it into the puddle.

    However I have Butt joints on I beam in which I get contamination when I cannot get much leading angle on the joint. Looks like gas contamination.
    The Lap / T joints are easier.

    Could it be that the AC cleaning does not work if it is not pushed away???!

    Yes 5/8 = #10. I ordered a 3/4 but its not here yet. Project needs to be done Tomorrow.

    At 120 htz its easier to sneak the rod in, than 60 htz; despite extra cleaning.

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Posts
    21

    Default cleaning aluminum filler rod necessary?

    Aluminum Hi-freq welding is the easiest and prettiest welding there is.. It's super easy to diagnose any problems your having if something goes wrong. It's also very nice to make a nice uniform robotic looking weld, it just takes some "hood time" to find that rhythm. I use a thumb control and I wouldn't trade it for a foot control, EVER. I make the prettiest welds in any position on any given day. Prepare prepare prepare! I've never cleaned filler rods either, if they are dirty enough that they cause contamination I will toss them. If this was the case with my filler wire I would also have to look into my storage techniques. I actually leave mine sitting on a "mini" a-frame rod holder on top of the syncrowave uncovered wrapped in a rubber band and I still have never had problems.

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Posts
    26

    Default

    Sooo.... Whats your advice???? What am i doing wrong? Or is that a trade secret?

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    seaford de
    Posts
    406

    Default

    I used to weld fuel cells for racing boats and had to get certified for it. They made us clean the filler with acetone and cut the end of the filler off before every start.

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Posts
    26

    Default

    I'm cleaning every thing with laquer thinner. (has acetone in it. Leaves no residue.)

    I may have to much leading angle. The effect looked like arc blow. Hot gas would slightly melt and oxidize the filler and also allow arc wander towards the filler.

    THE BEST TIP ON THIS THREAD WAS TO "SNEAK THE FILLER INTO THE VERY EDGE OF THE PUDDLE.
    Kudos to who ever posted it.
    Last edited by coronan; 04-11-2013 at 10:20 AM.

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    not near you
    Posts
    146

    Default scotch brite yer rod

    Quote Originally Posted by JSFAB View Post
    scotchbrite, you can omit the acetone.
    +1 ...I don't like using acetone or other fast evaporating liquids for cleaning because of fire danger.....But then I welded on aluminum gillnetters ....Manual cleaning always works.....sometimes it takes more that one or two attempts...Cleaning your rod is a basic..If you have greasy gloves you may have to clean your rod often if you want those welds that shine on and on..good luck...

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Montana, USA
    Posts
    233

    Default

    Try to shorten the arc by holding the tung closer to the puddle; suspect you are melting/balling the rod before it hits the puddle, as others have said. Keep the tip close to the puddle and back up a bit (but don't pull away), as you dip the rod to the puddle. By keeping a shorter arc the heat is more confined to the area, so hopefully, the rod will hit the puddle before melting.

    Suggest you watch some of the videos at http://www.weldingtipsandtricks.com/ to see how a pro does it.
    Last edited by Goodhand; 04-14-2013 at 10:25 PM.

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