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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
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    southern B.C
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    51

    Default polished M/S finishing?

    I've recently finished a set of handrails for the entryway of a customers home.Using polished mild steel,oak and glass. I've looked @ clear powder coating but have gotten some negative feedback on results. Guys saying stuff like "i've seen the steel spider web rust under the coating", or things like "you get what you get". A real turn off for what is said to be a superior finish to a clear 2-part urethane. I'm hoping someone with finishing background can help with my decision, don't really want to be re&reing this project due to poor finish or short life. I am aware that powder coating is a tuffer finish but is the risk really that high? I've also heard of using lower curing temps and longer cure times help???????????????????? Thanks to anyone that can help.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Salem ,Ohio
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    3,908

    Cool

    I have used the same clear finish i used on my hardwood floors for some of my projects...Bob
    Bob Wright, Grandson of Tee Nee Boat Trailer Founder
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  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
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    southern B.C
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    51

    Default mild steel finishings

    Quote Originally Posted by aametalmaster View Post
    I have used the same clear finish i used on my hardwood floors for some of my projects...Bob
    Like a Varathane Diamond coat?

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Salem ,Ohio
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    3,908

    Cool

    Yup thats it Varathane High Gloss Polyurathane...Bob
    Bob Wright, Grandson of Tee Nee Boat Trailer Founder
    Metal Master Fab Salem, Oh 44460
    Birthplace of the Silver & Deming Drill
    1999 MM185 w/185 Spoolgun,1986 Thunderbolt AC/DC
    Spool Gun conversion. How To Do It. Below.
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  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    865

    Default

    Way back in the olden days, people used to use high gloss clear lacquer on polished metals. It's time tested and works well. Might try it if you can get your hands on it.

    80% of failures are from 20% of causes
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  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Kelowna B,C. Canada
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    13

    Default m/s steel

    I use a lot of laquer you need to spray a seal coat light sand with 280 grit then spray laquer a high gloss will make every flaw stand out a satin gloss will look much better you will have to add a product called "smothy" it is called fish eye remover or the laquer will spider on the steel you add it to the sealer and laquer you can also add a tint to the laquer

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    southern B.C
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    51

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Buddy T View Post
    I use a lot of laquer you need to spray a seal coat light sand with 280 grit then spray laquer a high gloss will make every flaw stand out a satin gloss will look much better you will have to add a product called "smothy" it is called fish eye remover or the laquer will spider on the steel you add it to the sealer and laquer you can also add a tint to the laquer

    Not entirely familiar with finishes like this so excuse me if this sounds like a stupid questions but is a laquer the same as a urethane and is it as durable. Being that this will be on hand rails it will see keys, rings, etc, running over it.

    thanks for all the input

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Kelowna B,C. Canada
    Posts
    13

    Default m/s steel

    If you use a post catylised laquer ( you add the catylist ) it is a lot harder then the precat laquer most tables are post laquer if you write on a table that was sprayed with precat you can read the letter in the table post laquer is used on pianos for it durability and hard finish if it gets scratched or damaged you just spray again the laquer melts into the old finish

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    wisconsin
    Posts
    836

    Default

    I think you have a couple issues to think of. One of them being finish durability, another being corrosion resistance WHEN the finish gets damaged, and the last is repairability of the finish. Powdercoat has a good initial durability, but lacks the ability to prevent corrosion from going under the finish when it gets damaged, and is for all practical terms impossible to "field repair". 2K urethanes or enamels ( dont use water based for obvious reasons ) have almost as "durable" of a finish as powdercoat, have much higher resistance to corrosion creeping under the finish, and are spot repairable in the field. 1K materials in the organic field such as laquers, shellacs, etc have a nice look, and can resist corrosion fairly well, but arent very durable in that environment. Figure the coating WILL get chipped and flake off, after all its a polished, un-primed surface. So pick one thats reasonably tough, and can be repaired easily. Personally I would pick a 2K acrylic-enamel.
    "Better Metalworking Through Research"

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  10. #10
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    Dec 2007
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    Los Angeles
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by journeyman View Post
    I've recently finished a set of handrails for the entryway of a customers home.
    This is outside correct?
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