I've recently finished a set of handrails for the entryway of a customers home.Using polished mild steel,oak and glass. I've looked @ clear powder coating but have gotten some negative feedback on results. Guys saying stuff like "i've seen the steel spider web rust under the coating", or things like "you get what you get". A real turn off for what is said to be a superior finish to a clear 2-part urethane. I'm hoping someone with finishing background can help with my decision, don't really want to be re&reing this project due to poor finish or short life. I am aware that powder coating is a tuffer finish but is the risk really that high? I've also heard of using lower curing temps and longer cure times help????????????????????Thanks to anyone that can help.
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Thread: polished M/S finishing?
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09-26-2009, 09:55 PM #1
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polished M/S finishing?
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09-26-2009, 10:14 PM #2
I have used the same clear finish i used on my hardwood floors for some of my projects...Bob
Bob Wright, Grandson of Tee Nee Boat Trailer Founder
Metal Master Fab Salem, Oh 44460
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09-26-2009, 11:46 PM #3
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09-27-2009, 12:58 AM #4
Yup thats it Varathane High Gloss Polyurathane...Bob
Bob Wright, Grandson of Tee Nee Boat Trailer Founder
Metal Master Fab Salem, Oh 44460
Birthplace of the Silver & Deming Drill
1999 MM185 w/185 Spoolgun,1986 Thunderbolt AC/DC
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09-27-2009, 03:06 AM #5
Way back in the olden days, people used to use high gloss clear lacquer on polished metals. It's time tested and works well. Might try it if you can get your hands on it.
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09-27-2009, 08:24 AM #6
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m/s steel
I use a lot of laquer you need to spray a seal coat light sand with 280 grit then spray laquer a high gloss will make every flaw stand out a satin gloss will look much better you will have to add a product called "smothy" it is called fish eye remover or the laquer will spider on the steel you add it to the sealer and laquer you can also add a tint to the laquer
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09-27-2009, 09:51 AM #7
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09-28-2009, 06:31 AM #8
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m/s steel
If you use a post catylised laquer ( you add the catylist ) it is a lot harder then the precat laquer most tables are post laquer if you write on a table that was sprayed with precat you can read the letter in the table post laquer is used on pianos for it durability and hard finish if it gets scratched or damaged you just spray again the laquer melts into the old finish
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09-28-2009, 07:54 AM #9
I think you have a couple issues to think of. One of them being finish durability, another being corrosion resistance WHEN the finish gets damaged, and the last is repairability of the finish. Powdercoat has a good initial durability, but lacks the ability to prevent corrosion from going under the finish when it gets damaged, and is for all practical terms impossible to "field repair". 2K urethanes or enamels ( dont use water based for obvious reasons ) have almost as "durable" of a finish as powdercoat, have much higher resistance to corrosion creeping under the finish, and are spot repairable in the field. 1K materials in the organic field such as laquers, shellacs, etc have a nice look, and can resist corrosion fairly well, but arent very durable in that environment. Figure the coating WILL get chipped and flake off, after all its a polished, un-primed surface. So pick one thats reasonably tough, and can be repaired easily. Personally I would pick a 2K acrylic-enamel.
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09-28-2009, 09:30 AM #10
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Thanks to anyone that can help.
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