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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Raymore Missouri
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    Default Question for Gate builders

    I may build a 10ft wide x 5 ft high gate for a person. I 'm thinking the outer frame will be 1"x 1.5" tubing with pickets and etc inside. What I would like to have input on is the wall thickness of the frame. I think .057 wall would be ok but the welds at corners & the hinge would have to beefed up some with some corner plates etc. If I use heavier wall tube, I just have more weight to deal with. Also what size hinges x 2 would be recomended? Either way, I still feel the corners and hinge weld points should be reinforced. When I say corners, they will be mitered.

    Nick
    Nick
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  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Abilene, Texas
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    Default

    I've built quite a few ranch gates. Some pretty heavy. I've also done a few ornamental ones. The key to making a gate work correctly is the hinge post and how it's braced. It doesn't take a huge post to hang a pretty heavy gate if the post is braced properly. I wouldn't worry as much about the weight of the gate as the corner. Will this gate be hung on metal?

    What kind of pickets are you using? From what you are saying, I'm thinking you are going with something like 1/2" or 3/4" square tubing. The hinges pretty much depend on what you are hanging the gate on. Post a little more info and I'll try to help.
    Jim

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    arizona
    Posts
    105

    Default gate

    i tend to use a .120 wall thickness on the hinge side and for the post on every gate i make, even small ones. i weld the hinges onto the post and drill out on the gate for attaching. with this wall thickness, the metal doesn't give when tightening the bolts. for the rest of the gate and frame i try to use .065. for a large gate, i would use 1 1/2 or 2" square tubing and plan the design to have enough vertical and horizontal members so everything is solidly-welded. for hinges, i tend to use 4" or 5" heavy-duty hinges but i am always hinging to a metal post. my posts have 4 or 5 weld tabs welded on (depending on height and weight) and i use 5/16 or 3/8 lag bolts and anchors. if the driveway gate is going to have an automatic opener, i would plan the design to reinforce that area for attaching. cat

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    New Orleans, LA
    Posts
    161

    Default

    I use .120 wall square tube for the frames on all my gates with no corner bracing. I've been using it for years with good results. With pickets and cross rails I don't put an angle brace across anything under 6 feet. Over that I brace from the bottom gate corner to the top latch corner. Seems to keep them from drooping better that way. Yoiu need the wall thickness to support the hinges. On throughbolt hinges the tube will collapse and weld on hinges will fatigue and tear out over time. I get a lot of calls to repair that. Hope this helps. Not the only way to do it, just what works well for me.
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  5. #5
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    Aug 2006
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    Raymore Missouri
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    Default

    Ok..here is the gate I may build.
    Gate is 10ft long.......5ft high
    Circles will be approx 4"dia
    pickets will be 3/4 sq tube 16 ga
    Frame 1" x 2" x .120 ? not the 1x1.5 shown on the drawing
    posts will be 4" sq probably .250 wall
    any more suggestions
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by monte55; 09-23-2007 at 08:43 AM.
    Nick
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  6. #6
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Abilene, Texas
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    Default

    It looks like you are right on track. I really don't see anything wrong with the design or weights of the stuff you are planning to use. That 1 x 2 .120 is some strong stuff. It should work good. Here's a link to some hinges. http://www.kingmetals.com/Default.as...&CurrentPage=1 I've used the smaller sized weld on hinges and they work great. I've never been much of a fan of the butt hinges. Seems like any little speck of weld splatter in the wrong place can really cause problems and they don't look that great anyway. You can also just make your hinges but I've figured out that I can buy them and save a lot of time plus they look good.
    Jim

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    arizona
    Posts
    105

    Default

    I usally plan the design to have a horizontal cross-piece 12" or so up from the bottom and welded to every pickett so you don't get that vibrating-feeling on the vertical picketts; feels more solid when it "slams" against the latch. What finish are you using? Powdercoat?

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Albuquerque, New Mexico
    Posts
    19

    Default

    There is alot of 16ga stuff around where I live and IMHO this is fine for pickets but not so good for frames. Especially at the width you are working at.

    When the neighbors noticed I was doing some welding it seems they all had a gate that needed repair. Agree with others that thicker frames and a solid gate post are key. Most of the repairs I've done included not only the damage from an impact to the gate but the additional stress to the hinge area.

    Also be careful to avoid heat distortion when welding the pickets on. I learned the hard way on this one. I started at one side of a 4' single leaf man gate with pickets spaced about 4" apart. By the time I got to the middle, the picketts were too long to fit between the top and bottom frame.
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  9. #9
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    Aug 2006
    Location
    Raymore Missouri
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    Default

    My main concern is whether to use weld on hinges or an adjustable should any adjustment be needed later for any reason such as sag, post loosing
    plumb etc. I have fence post around my property that gets loose when the ground gets real dry. Also the customer plans later to add an opener to the gate. What sort of latch should be used? Does one just put a stop on the post where the gate is fully closed or is a guide of some sort used on the post to guide the gate to the closed position? I'm also thinking of the height of the gate off the ground. I'm thinking about 4 inches. I think if too low they'll have to get the shovel even in a mild snowfall to clear the gate arc.
    Just keep your ideas coming guys. I do appreciate your input.
    Another thought............would it be dumb to put a small ground wheel
    to help the gate sag providing the pitch of the drive would let me?
    Nick
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  10. #10
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Abilene, Texas
    Posts
    639

    Default

    I've always used weld on hinges but do have some gates that change with wet and dry conditions. Being able to adjust the hinges would be a plus. I've never used an opener so no help. Maybe you need to get with the gate opener people and see what they sell. Four inches off the ground sounds okay. I wouldn't go any less than that. If the gate is hanging over concrete the wheel might help. However, most of those little wheels end up either torn up or not touching the ground. I probably wouldn't mess with one on a gate that size. If the gate was 15' then it might be necessary. What support is your gate post going to have? Is it braced or just standing in the hole with concrete. If it's not braced then it's going to move.
    Jim

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