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  1. #171
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Posts
    162

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Dave G View Post
    Thanks to the short (4+ min) Miller Dynasty menu setup video I got the hidden menu mastered. Stick welding with normal OCV is just like welding with my old Miller Syncrowave 300. So what is the reason for the low OCV setting? Less current draw by the machine? And if normal OCV is selected is there any further advantage to using the DIG setting?
    Low OCV is safer since the voltage is always there unless you have a remote contactor. It does nothing to the machine's current draw.

    DIG has nothing to do with this, it is simply voltage droop control. SMAW is constant current, power (current x voltage) varies with arc length.

  2. #172
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Posts
    4

    Default HF start not working, low amps, no error codes

    Been having trouble with my older Dynasty 300 DX (serial #KK032499)
    I pretty much exclusively use this for 1/8" aluminum, and for years it has been fine.

    Built a steel hydraulic press, and used the Dynasty for stick welding. Ever since, it's been hard to start in HF AC TIG.
    This weekend I tried to use it on 1/4 aluminum, and HF wouldn't work at all I switched to liftarc, and even though the amps were turned up to 300, it wouldn't even form a puddle.

    Turned down the amps and tried it on 1/8", and still no HF start, but it would weld a nice bead using liftarc.

    It doesn't show any error codes, but I noticed that while welding, the amps meter shows 500... weird.

    Welding parameters are:
    When the machine is turned on, the left panel reads, 19.6, and the right panel reads 597, then changes to -.6 on the left panel, then displays set amps.
    When welding, the left panel reads volts (varies all over the place in the 20v range) and the right panel always reads 500
    Water cooled torch
    Red tungsten (3/32", tried gold too)
    #5 cup with gas lens
    20 CFH Argon
    pre flow .8
    post flow 4.0
    AC TIG
    HF mode
    frequency 60
    AC balance 75%
    Amps 140 for 1/8"
    remote enabled

    I have accessed the hidden menus and see:
    The arc time is 741 hrs, 49 minutes
    The arc cycles are 211,946
    The lockout is disabled
    The HF start amps is 30
    The HF time is 20

    One thing though, when accessing/setting HF amps and start time, the left display shows SE.L instead of -5- like shown in the manual.

    I'm using this manual: http://www.millerwelds.com/om/o358b_mil.pdf

    It seems like there is a setting that is not right. Is there a reboot or factory preset that I can access?

    Thanks for any help!
    Last edited by acidrain; 04-29-2012 at 07:58 PM.

  3. #173
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Posts
    4

    Default

    Nevermind, it's toast.
    I called Miller and talked to a tech today (nice guy).
    There is no reset for this machine.
    I'm sending it off for diagnosis. I'll post results when I have them.

  4. #174
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Posts
    4

    Default Diagnosis results

    They found two open buss resistors on PC-2. Replaced those and ran a operational/load test... same results.
    They recommend replacement of the PC-1 control board, PC-8 clamp board, and pc-7 HF board.
    Estimate for the work is $3,467 including local sales tax. Yikes!

    I can find the parts (genuine, new Miller parts) on line for less than $2K.
    I'm not inept. I understand the dangers of capacitors, etc.
    It would be a big gamble, but what do you guys think? Is this something I can do myself?

    As a side note, to finish the jobs I had in the door, I rented a 200 DX. I must say, I'm very impressed with the power. I didn't expect to weld 1/4" aluminum with a welder that only weighs 45 lbs.
    My LWS has a brand new, two year warranty 200 DX for $3200.

    So My options are: new 200DX, or fix my old 300DX (new 350DX is not an option).
    Opinions?

  5. #175
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Posts
    241

    Default

    That quote is ridiculous ,Did they offer any explanation as to why 3 boards failed at once? You can do a google search there are a lot of companies that do component level repairs on PCB boards and warranty their work. Just an idea Mike

  6. #176
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Posts
    241

    Default

    That quote is ridiculous ,Did they offer any explanation as to why 3 boards failed at once? You can do a google search there are a lot of companies that do component level repairs on PCB boards and warranty their work. Just an idea Mike

  7. #177
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Posts
    4

    Default

    Meh, moot point now... bought a brand new 200 DX. Hard to beat a 3 yr warranty and free loaner. It doesn't have the power of the 300, but some of the new features are cool (waveshape), and it does almost everything my old unit could do.
    The repairs were just to big of a gamble for me. Thanks for the input guys.

  8. #178
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Posts
    3,103

    Thumbs up Dyn 350 Aluminum Engine Block...

    Here are a few more neat videos that illustrate some of the advantages and setup of the Dynasty 350... Aluminum Engine Block Welding...
    these are with Chris Razor of Hi-Tech Welding

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OUr2h...feature=relmfu

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N9aqMknf_0g

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Oh5n9...feature=relmfu
    .

    *******************************************
    The more you know, The better you know, How little you know......

    “The bitterness of poor quality remains long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten”

    Buy the best tools you can afford.. Learn to use them to the best of your ability.. and take care of them...

    My Blue Stuff:
    Dynasty 350DX Tigrunner
    Dynasty 200DX
    Millermatic 350P w/25ft Alumapro & 30A
    Millermatic 200

    TONS of Non-Blue Equip, plus CNC Mill, Lathes & a Plasmacam..

  9. #179
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Minnesota
    Posts
    3

    Default New to the Thread - Dynasty Setup for Mild Steel

    Hello everyone, new to the party, maybe someone has already addressed the issue I'm battling, but I can weld stainless or aluminum easily with my Dynasty 350, for the first time I tried to use it on some plain old angle iron to fix a bracket the other day and spent 3 hrs just trying to get some penetration. The steel becomes hot, glowing red, but doesn't let any penetration happen, tried a little filler rod to see what it would do and it lays right on the surface. Cranked up the DC amps well above 200 and still same results, tried some different settings on the pulse/wave controls same results. Is this an alloy, wrong settings, or did I not clean the area well enough? I'll try and get some pics if I can, thanks!

  10. #180
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    now in Orlando!!!!
    Posts
    559

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Cowboyz Custom View Post
    Hello everyone, new to the party, maybe someone has already addressed the issue I'm battling, but I can weld stainless or aluminum easily with my Dynasty 350, for the first time I tried to use it on some plain old angle iron to fix a bracket the other day and spent 3 hrs just trying to get some penetration. The steel becomes hot, glowing red, but doesn't let any penetration happen, tried a little filler rod to see what it would do and it lays right on the surface. Cranked up the DC amps well above 200 and still same results, tried some different settings on the pulse/wave controls same results. Is this an alloy, wrong settings, or did I not clean the area well enough? I'll try and get some pics if I can, thanks!

    Pictures would help, along with settings.....100 amps is enough to melt about anything......very strange.....looking forward to your response
    More Spark Today Please

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