Dynasty Processes-Set Up

[Marcel Bauer]

I figured out the spot welding function on the Dynasty 200 yesterday. I practiced welding stainless filler rods together end to end and Tee joints, this is the first time I have been able to do this with any degree of success!
200 amps for .1 second will butt weld 3/32" filler rods, the secret is to use as short a time as possible and high current settings.
I made several types of welds on various 308 filler rods with a high degree of success.
RMT2 hold, dc, .1 second 200 amps are the settings used, and I am sure I will improve over time.
I attached a couple of pictures...........

That's EXACTLY what I was looking for!

Thanks much!!!

Merry Christmas to you!

[Hoo]

So our shop just got its hands on a dynasty 350, already having a dynasty 200 I was familiar to welding Al with an inverter. At least, I thought.

Hands down being able to adjust EN-EP amperage, along with the soft squarewave form is the best advancement ive seen in welding equipment to date. Night and day difference compared to a regular inverter.

Now I understand what all the controls are, but I dont seem to be getting the tungsten life that I think I should. Properly prepped I will start to see it split and deform within 5 inches of weld. With less pedal (and fewer touchouts) it will last longer but still is not like I would have hoped. My settings are 300A EN 220A EP 73% balance 140Hz 3/32 ceriated.

Any suggestions on how to tweak these settings would be much appreciated.

[Broccoli1]

So our shop just got its hands on a dynasty 350, already having a dynasty 200 I was familiar to welding Al with an inverter. At least, I thought.

Hands down being able to adjust EN-EP amperage, along with the soft squarewave form is the best advancement ive seen in welding equipment to date. Night and day difference compared to a regular inverter.

Now I understand what all the controls are, but I dont seem to be getting the tungsten life that I think I should. Properly prepped I will start to see it split and deform within 5 inches of weld. With less pedal (and fewer touchouts) it will last longer but still is not like I would have hoped. My settings are 300A EN 220A EP 73% balance 140Hz 3/32 ceriated.

Any suggestions on how to tweak these settings would be much appreciated.

http://www.millerwelds.com/resources...iable-Polarity

[earlypanels]

hi all,newbe poster here. i just bought a new 200 dx and i was hoping to get a few pointers from you guys who are much more experienced than me.

im trying to get my machine setup to to weld 20 and 19 guage mild steel sheetmetal. i mostly do buttwelds and often dont even use a filler rod.

can anyone give me the opinions on what tungsten type and thickness to use? what should i use as settings on the digital thingy?

we farted around with several settings yesterday with mixed results but i wanted to hear if possible what the experts say.......any help is greatly appreciated

[popspipes]

Congrats on your choice of the Dynasty 200DX!

I Tig weld 19 and 22 gage sheetmetal with mine. The only butweld I do on the 22 gage, the settings are 500 cycles pulse, 21 amps 50 percent, 20 percent background. This averages out to about 10 amps DC.
I use .040 Tungsten, Ceriated and Thoriated, (the thoriated because I ordered wrong) and a wp9 torch, about 5 cfh on the argon flowmeter with a #4 gas lens cup. (no pulse, DC set at 10 amps works just as well).

It is hard for me to figure out what current I have using the pulse feature, it can be figured , but I nail the pedal then look at the amp meter to see what amperage I am really using.

I love it for thin gage aluminum, as well and the spot feature mentioned in an above post.
It does take awhile to get the many functions down but I think you will love this machine!

[earlypanels]

thanks!!!!!!!!!!! i have a buddy in the industry but he does mostly aluminum and larger thickness than i ever do.........he told me after my econotig broke "dude,just spend the money and cry once,the dynasty is a gnarly machine!"

thanks again so much,can you reccomend a different tungsten then? or is what you mentioned working well?

is there any advantage to using pulse on my particular usage?

i plan on learning to do some thin guage aluminum too........i gotta admit i was blown away at how long i was able to sit on some 20 guage and not blow a hole or anything!

[popspipes]

thanks!!!!!!!!!!! i have a buddy in the industry but he does mostly aluminum and larger thickness than i ever do.........he told me after my econotig broke "dude,just spend the money and cry once,the dynasty is a gnarly machine!"

thanks again so much,can you reccomend a different tungsten then? or is what you mentioned working well?

is there any advantage to using pulse on my particular usage?

i plan on learning to do some thin guage aluminum too........i gotta admit i was blown away at how long i was able to sit on some 20 guage and not blow a hole or anything!

I agree with your buddy!

I have used pulse and no pulse and the welds are the same, I use it because its on the machine and I think the prepped tungsten stays good longer, .020 tungsten would be better for my application but it breaks so easily when handling it so I went to the .040. The pulse will keep you awake as well ha! There may be advantages to it that I havent discovered yet though.
I havent noticed much difference in the tungstens I mentioned at low current, the thoriated doesnt work too well on aluminum for me, it tends to split at high current settings.
I can run a nice bead on .058 wall aluminum, as the thickness decreases it gets tougher for me, my hand to eye isnt as good as it used to be.

I have a bit less than 200 hours on mine and no fault codes except Help 1, and that one is reset with a toggle of the power switch, that one doesnt happen often though.

[4sfed]

I agree with your buddy!

I have used pulse and no pulse and the welds are the same, I use it because its on the machine and I think the prepped tungsten stays good longer . . . There may be advantages to it that I havent discovered yet though.

Pops,

Try a lower pulse rate . . . 30-40 PPS. I don't think the higher rates allow enough time for the puddle to cool . . . at least that's my theory. Lower rates work too, but I can't tolerate if very long. You may also have to adjust the sensitivity or delay settings of your A/D filter.

Try 40 pps, 40% peak and 40% background on some thinner material and let us know if you like it . . . or the perceived improvement is all in my mind.

-jim

[popspipes]

Pops,

Try a lower pulse rate . . . 30-40 PPS. I don't think the higher rates allow enough time for the puddle to cool . . . at least that's my theory. Lower rates work too, but I can't tolerate if very long. You may also have to adjust the sensitivity or delay settings of your A/D filter.

Try 40 pps, 40% peak and 40% background on some thinner material and let us know if you like it . . . or the perceived improvement is all in my mind.

-jim

I agree Jim that the slower rates are better but they drive my eyes nuts! I tried it on the turntable and about .5 pps made a very nice looking weld, I didnt experiment long with that though, what I have tried with the same average current and rate of travel, but different pulse rates, the welds look identical as far as penetration goes.

I have been experimenting with pumping the pedal on thin gage steel, that seems to work better and may be the same as slow pulse, I will have to experiment more with it. I seem to be able to control the HAZ better this way.

[earlypanels]

thanks for the tips guys!!!!!!!!!! i have another silly question.......what about gas pressure? is there a area i should keep it for thin guage? will the pressures be different for steel vs aluminum? i know i know im still very "green" on tig welding

i bought what im told is a really great machine and just want to get it all dialed in,my machine uses the thumb control if that makes any difference in technique........please feel free to school me,i love learning and respect you guys opinions! thanks again