Dynasty Processes-Set Up

[Blaze1445]

Hello,

Can somebody give me some tips and settings about welding at low amps small diameter wire and stainless tubes?

[JohnnyFix]

Tight fitup. A very short arc is best. I usually use DC with good gas flow to help the cooling.

You mention low amps, but this may not be a good idea. I little higher amps will produce a suitable puddle quicker, in a smaller area, and minimize undesireable excessive heat in the overall piece.

Thin stuff like 16 ga., maybe 40-50A. Weld quickly with short welds, pausing for cooling time in between the short welds.

Hope this helps.
J.

[popspipes]

16 gage stainless as stated above 40 to 50 amps,(48 amps on the machine I use)
perfect fitup ( chop saw or fischer cold saw), purge the inside of the tube, make sure the tungsten point is good, about 10 cfh on the flowmeter with a #6 cup, tack in 3 or 4 places, then weld it up. I may have left out some things, but this is most of it.
clean material, no tarnish or burs.
It takes practice and lots of it to really get proficient and get 100% penetration and no crater at the end of the weld. Brush with a stainless brush while the weld is still warm or hit it with a 3M wheel to remove the tarnish.

The Dynasty is a good Tig machine for what you are trying to do.

[dseman]

[QUOTE=
Waveform - Advanced square wave



One effect I noticed was that the arc seemed to be very "forceful" for want of a better term. By this I mean that there was a dimple in the center of my arc puddle and the alum seemed to be repelled from the tungsten at the tip.
[/QUOTE]

Try changing from advanced square wave to soft squarewave. The advanced squarewave has a very fast transition between your dcep and dcen portions of the ac waveform. By increasing the time it takes to transition between the two, you will reduce the forcefullness or focus of the arc. You can also reduce your frequency, but I'd try the waveform selection first.

--dseman

[moroeder]

Since I'm not a welder but a machine builder I don't have the opportunities to use all the 300DX capabilities. But one setting has me bugged. When I try to "lift arc" on AC, 35% neg balanced on .025" 6061, I can't keep the arc running. The lanthinated 1/16" tungsten will also stick to the base metal slightly. I have had it work a couple of times but cannot get it right. The reason I am chasing this lift arc feature is that it appears when it does work I don't have the normal HF starting current that has a tendency to burn through a butt weld on start. If iI could get the lift arc to work consistently I believe I would have more luck with this "tin foil" I need to weld.

[popspipes]

I havent had much luck with the lift arc feature, the HF works much better for me. Aluminum will weld without HF but its kind of "iffy" it seemed to work better at higher current settings.

I think your start parameters need to be changed, on the 200 that is adjustable and I imagine it is on the 300 as well although I am not familiar with that machine.

[4sfed]

The reason I am chasing this lift arc feature is that it appears when it does work I don't have the normal HF starting current that has a tendency to burn through a butt weld on start. If iI could get the lift arc to work consistently I believe I would have more luck with this "tin foil" I need to weld.

Keep using HF start and try reducing the HF impulse start amperage time . . . section 4-13 of the 300DX owners manual, sections C & D . . . http://www.millerwelds.com/om/o358k_mil.pdf. This is the current produced when the arc is initiated. At the end of the impulse time, current is controlled by the pedal.

I've had good success welding .032 thick 3003 by reducing the impulse amperage to 10 (factory default is 20) and time to 5 (factory default is 10). Welding current is adjusted with the foot pedal, but set to 50 amps on the panel, 120 Hz and balance is 85.

Jim

[Mountain Metal]

There was talk about an advanced guide to the Dynasty. Miller or someone else was going to publish. Any one know where this is this at, the more I use this machine the more I want to know.

Expermenting has been great but I a using it more and need to get some short cuts. The spot feature and pulse features are outstanding. I think I'm just scraching the surface. I am very interested in an advanced guide. Any news or available resource on this?

[H80N]

Mountain Metal
myself and several others were pushing for and hoping for such a guide... The best we have gotten thus far is this thread being a sticky.... I personally have a Dynasty 350Tigrunner and Dynasty 200Dx... have had them for a couple of years now... and the more I use them the more I would like a book... have been tigging for about 40 years... but the potential of these advanced inverters is tremendous... wish Miller would reconsider!!!!!!
Thanks
Heiti

Here is a link to that thread!!

http://www.millerwelds.com/resources...y-Welding-Book

[popspipes]

I figured out the spot welding function on the Dynasty 200 yesterday. I practiced welding stainless filler rods together end to end and Tee joints, this is the first time I have been able to do this with any degree of success!
200 amps for .1 second will butt weld 3/32" filler rods, the secret is to use as short a time as possible and high current settings.
I made several types of welds on various 308 filler rods with a high degree of success.
RMT2 hold, dc, .1 second 200 amps are the settings used, and I am sure I will improve over time.
I attached a couple of pictures...........