Dynasty Processes-Set Up

[HAWK]

shut up noone gives a ****^

THIS IS NOT THE PLACE FOR SUCH POSTS! i THINK WE NEED TO BLOCK YOUR IP ADDRESSES AND REMOVE YOUR POSTS

[H80N]

Haden
no place here for that type of garbage.. Hawk is right!!!

[ASKANDY]

Banned

[Bob Miller]

Andy, If there is not going to be a Dynasty 200 book in the near future, how about a Cheat Sheet/Quick Reference Guide.
You know something that says what all the buttons do, and how to get into the hidden menu and stuff like that.
I was thinking of doing something like that and laminate it, so you can store it under the welder.
But it would be better if you did it.
Good Luck,
Bob

[captkipp]

Wow! After all these years with the transformer machines. The new Miller Dynasty 350 has come to live at my shop. I've discovered, actually rediscovered, how steep the learning curve can be.

Would one of you more learned spark makers please explain the Amp-EN-EP-Balance interaction to me?

Seems as though when I set an amp choice in, the machine is adjusting the EN-EP levels according to the Balance setting. If I adjust the EP or EN numbers I can manually change this relationship.

Is the Balance adjustment actually setting the relationship of the En-EP settings by causing the EN setting to become greater or less, and thereby change the difference and percentage in relation to the EP settings? I find currently that I'm about 75% on the Balance settings. Suggestions?

Is the dialed in AMP setting an AVERAGE of the EN-EP settings according to the BALANCE setting?

What I'm looking for is the "Sweet Spot" for anodized aluminum, which is 75-80 percent of my work load. My old transformer machine was around 175-180 with the balance knob set on "Balanced" for most anodized pipe and plate. Thicker stuff than the typical sched. 40 pipe and 1/4" plate required more heat of course. I just seem to be struggling a bit with this amp relationship thing. Mostly cause I don't really understand the interaction between the settings and the associated adjustments and what they can actually cause in the weldment and its appearance.

Thanks in advance.

[H80N]

This is a BIG step in the right direction...

Dynasty/Maxstar Set-Up Videos and Dynasty Quick Reference Guide Available
Download the Dynasty Quick Reference Guide and view helpful videos regarding Dynasty/Maxstar set-up and functionality

http://www.millerwelds.com/resources...asty-maxstar-/

[captkipp]

Nice. I've been trying different things of course since it's arrival. It is a completely different 'animal' than the transformer machines. Thanks for the help.

[Keith_J]

thanks guys! i set up the machine at 40ppp 40 background and 40 amps,set the gas at 15................had some great results.........i also reread the instructional downloads on this site......they actually helped alot too

can i ask if setting the tungsten size programable feature will help? im not minding the thumb control,i kinda like it,my old machine had a foot pedal,but it was a cavemans tig welder

on these low amp settings is arc start sometimes iffy? i found that sometimes i had to get the tungsten really really close to get it to start.........when i did i could click the thumb setting maybe a 1/4 the way up and found that sweet spot where it looks like a mouse was welding here

my filler rod is too thick though,i took some .023 wire from my mig and used it too but it was too thin.........anyone recomend a certain type of filler rod and thickness for welding 20/19 guage mild sheetmetal? im mainly doing buttwelds with very little gap if any

I'm going to try this setting, only at 55-70 amperes for what I think is 16 gauge sheet steel. It is an old truck bed, patching a rust-out. Modular so all I have to deal with is the floor proper. I've got some cheap (HF) butt welding clamps which have a stand-off of 0.040" so that will be root gap, unless I grind a relief for clamp sections. 40 thousandths is a good root gap for 1/16th filler rod.

I too have the RCCS, have used foot controls but in my varied positions, hand control is better. Plus my foot gets tired and drifts, the rotary holds the position. The only time it is a problem is on starts with the detent causing a bit of torch shifting, this is minimal as it is low power.

Edit to add: The sheet steel I was trying to weld was determined to be cheap import stuff. It didn't want to weld, bubbling and fizzing with faint sparks. Rimmed or cap steel, at least i didn't ruin the part I was trying to repair (truck bed component).

I'm going to get the local steel goods supplier to brake bend a flange onto a sheet instead of using unknown scrap just because it had the proper flange.

[Ronnie]

My LWS has ER70 tig rod (36" straight) in .035 and .045. I'm lazy. Straightening wire is too much trouble. The only thing I have on a roll is some aluminum-bronze for repairing castings . . . because I couldn't find it in straight lengths.



Pictures!?!

-jim

What kind of trouble are you referring to when straightening Wire?

R.

[4sfed]

What kind of trouble are you referring to when straightening Wire?

R.

It's not difficult, it just takes too much time to get it straight enough for taste.