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  1. #121
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    Jan 2009
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    Quote Originally Posted by popspipes View Post
    I agree Jim that the slower rates are better but they drive my eyes nuts!
    That's why the range from about 2-30 pps is no-man's land for me.

    Quote Originally Posted by popspipes View Post
    I tried it on the turntable and about .5 pps made a very nice looking weld, I didnt experiment long with that though, what I have tried with the same average current and rate of travel, but different pulse rates, the welds look identical as far as penetration goes.
    I'm using it primarily on aluminum to prevent burning holes. Without the pulse, I have trouble welding .032 aluminum sheet . . . I'm putting a new body on a Lotus 7. Pulsing makes it easier for me to control the size of the keyhole. YMMV.

    Thanks for the reply,

    -jim
    Dynasty 300DX
    MM350P
    Hobart Handler 120
    Smith LW7, MW1, AW1
    Smith AR/He Mixer

  2. #122
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    Jan 2009
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    SW Ohio
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    Quote Originally Posted by earlypanels View Post
    thanks for the tips guys!!!!!!!!!! i have another silly question.......what about gas pressure? is there a area i should keep it for thin guage? will the pressures be different for steel vs aluminum? i know i know im still very "green" on tig welding
    Technically, you're controlling the rate of gas flow (cubic feet per hour . . . CFH) not pressure, but that's a minor point. I depends on the current, type and size of nozzle and type of material. I'm using a gas lens with a #7 cup for most of my work. 10-14 CFH usually gets the job done . . . more for aluminum, less for steel.

    Quote Originally Posted by earlypanels View Post
    i bought what im told is a really great machine and just want to get it all dialed in,my machine uses the thumb control if that makes any difference in technique........please feel free to school me,i love learning and respect you guys opinions! thanks again
    The technique is the same whether you're using a thumb wheel or foot pedal, but I think the thumb wheel is more difficult. It's hard for me to adjust the current without dipping the tungsten. A thumbwheel also limits the way you hold the torch. Sometimes you need to be creative to reach the joint.

    Have you found the Resources pages on this site?
    http://www.millerwelds.com/resources...ints_tips.html
    There are more links when you get to the bottom of the article.

    BTW, like Pop, I see no difference with/without pulse when welding steel.

    -jim
    Dynasty 300DX
    MM350P
    Hobart Handler 120
    Smith LW7, MW1, AW1
    Smith AR/He Mixer

  3. #123
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Hazelwood Mo USA
    Posts
    460

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    Quote Originally Posted by 4sfed View Post
    That's why the range from about 2-30 pps is no-man's land for me.



    I'm using it primarily on aluminum to prevent burning holes. Without the pulse, I have trouble welding .032 aluminum sheet . . . I'm putting a new body on a Lotus 7. Pulsing makes it easier for me to control the size of the keyhole. YMMV.

    Thanks for the reply,

    -jim
    Thanks for the tip Jim! I will try the pulse on aluminum thin tube as that is a bit tricky at times for me, I just dont do enough of it to get proficient so each time its a learning experience ha!
    mike sr

  4. #124
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
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    Hazelwood Mo USA
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    460

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    Originally Posted by earlypanels
    thanks for the tips guys!!!!!!!!!! i have another silly question.......what about gas pressure? is there a area i should keep it for thin guage? will the pressures be different for steel vs aluminum? i know i know im still very "green" on tig welding


    I take it you have a flow gage on your regulator, I think its calibrated in cfh rather than pressure. If you set it on say 10 it should equal 10 cfh. I believe it is actually a pressure gage that reads the pressure thru an orifice and the gage is calibrated in cfh .
    I use the Smith ball and tube flowmeters on my setup, one goes to the torch the other is for the purge line used mainly for steel or stainless tube. I purge any weld that penetrates thru on the tube welds.

    I use a bit more cfh on aluminum, dipping the filler disturbs the gas flow, and I found that by increasing the cfh some cured the problem I was having.
    mike sr

  5. #125
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    Mar 2009
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    Hazelwood Mo USA
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    double post sorry.........
    Last edited by popspipes; 03-24-2011 at 03:47 PM. Reason: double post
    mike sr

  6. #126
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Posts
    4

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    thanks guys! i set up the machine at 40ppp 40 background and 40 amps,set the gas at 15................had some great results.........i also reread the instructional downloads on this site......they actually helped alot too

    can i ask if setting the tungsten size programable feature will help? im not minding the thumb control,i kinda like it,my old machine had a foot pedal,but it was a cavemans tig welder

    on these low amp settings is arc start sometimes iffy? i found that sometimes i had to get the tungsten really really close to get it to start.........when i did i could click the thumb setting maybe a 1/4 the way up and found that sweet spot where it looks like a mouse was welding here

    my filler rod is too thick though,i took some .023 wire from my mig and used it too but it was too thin.........anyone recomend a certain type of filler rod and thickness for welding 20/19 guage mild sheetmetal? im mainly doing buttwelds with very little gap if any

  7. #127
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Hazelwood Mo USA
    Posts
    460

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    Quote Originally Posted by earlypanels View Post
    thanks guys! i set up the machine at 40ppp 40 background and 40 amps,set the gas at 15................had some great results.........i also reread the instructional downloads on this site......they actually helped alot too

    can i ask if setting the tungsten size programable feature will help? im not minding the thumb control,i kinda like it,my old machine had a foot pedal,but it was a cavemans tig welder

    on these low amp settings is arc start sometimes iffy? i found that sometimes i had to get the tungsten really really close to get it to start.........when i did i could click the thumb setting maybe a 1/4 the way up and found that sweet spot where it looks like a mouse was welding here

    my filler rod is too thick though,i took some .023 wire from my mig and used it too but it was too thin.........anyone recomend a certain type of filler rod and thickness for welding 20/19 guage mild sheetmetal? im mainly doing buttwelds with very little gap if any
    I set up my tungsten start for .040 and left the factory defaults for it.

    The high freq on the start is sometimes iffy, other times it is fine, I think its a quirk of the machine. If it doesnt start let off the pedal completely, touch the tungsten to the work, try the start again and it will work. (a guy told me about this for the Maxstar), works with this machine too.

    I use the .023 wire for filler and sometimes its too small, I am going to get a 2# roll of .030 and try that.

    I do like the foot control as I would have the same problem that Jim has with the thumb wheel.
    mike sr

  8. #128
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    SW Ohio
    Posts
    135

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    Quote Originally Posted by popspipes View Post
    I use the .023 wire for filler and sometimes its too small, I am going to get a 2# roll of .030 and try that.
    My LWS has ER70 tig rod (36" straight) in .035 and .045. I'm lazy. Straightening wire is too much trouble. The only thing I have on a roll is some aluminum-bronze for repairing castings . . . because I couldn't find it in straight lengths.

    Quote Originally Posted by earlypanels View Post
    thanks guys! i set up the machine at 40ppp 40 background and 40 amps,set the gas at 15................had some great results.........i also reread the instructional downloads on this site......they actually helped alot too
    Pictures!?!

    -jim
    Last edited by 4sfed; 03-25-2011 at 02:28 PM.
    Dynasty 300DX
    MM350P
    Hobart Handler 120
    Smith LW7, MW1, AW1
    Smith AR/He Mixer

  9. #129
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Hazelwood Mo USA
    Posts
    460

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    Quote Originally Posted by 4sfed View Post
    My LWS has ER70 tig rod (36" straight) in .035 and .045. I'm lazy. Straightening wire is too much trouble. The only thing I have on a roll is some aluminum-bronze for repairing castings . . . because I couldn't find it in straight lengths.


    -jim
    I just use a small ammount of filler, I have a piece of 1/16" copper tube about 24" long, I feed a length into that and use it as a rod holder, works pretty well for the small stuff and takes the curl out of it.
    mike sr

  10. #130
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    SW Ohio
    Posts
    135

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    Quote Originally Posted by popspipes View Post
    I just use a small ammount of filler, I have a piece of 1/16" copper tube about 24" long, I feed a length into that and use it as a rod holder, works pretty well for the small stuff and takes the curl out of it.
    I'll have to steal that idea for myself.

    Thanks,
    Dynasty 300DX
    MM350P
    Hobart Handler 120
    Smith LW7, MW1, AW1
    Smith AR/He Mixer

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