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  1. #41
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Battle Ground WA
    Posts
    179

    Default

    Great Thread!!

    A newbie here (retired) or should I say just plain tired! I too have found "manual" reading and then doing very difficult, especially the hidden menus! This board has been a Godsend and I have had nothing but good service from Miller techs.. and the humble experts on the board.

    As for me when I get stumped I first ask my Wife (younger then me) to read it for me (LOL) and then I go practice, I now know why those teachers used to say "ok class lets READ IT AGAIN" now if I can just remember where I put the manual (or what fricking MS Windows folder I put the .pdf in??--dang it where are my glasses??? HONEY HAVE YOU SEEN MY GLASSES???

    Sorry for rambling instead of postin a serious request or settings

    Tim
    Retired Elevator Consrtructor Local 19 IUEC
    AK bush pilot (no longer in AK) too old and no longer bold)
    Chaplain CMA chapter 26
    Dynasty200dx (new and loving it)
    MM-252 (NEW AND LEARNING IT)
    Hypertherm PM-45
    Miller 140 mig 110v
    Vtwin builder

  2. #42
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Hazelwood Mo USA
    Posts
    462

    Default dynasty 200 dx

    anyone have any input on the pulse feature? I have tried it on the turntable with the settings the dairy welder gave me and DC, if the average current on pulse equals the current setting on DC I cant tell any difference in the weld on .0625 stainless tube?
    I have noticed it is noisier and the tungsten point lasts longer on very low current settings.

    Someone jump in and tell me what I am doing wrong or not doing that I should etc...??

    According to that refrigerator door article it was a lifesaver to them, maybe I am using too thick material for it to make a real difference??

    The spot weld function is neat, I will just have to figure out something I can use it for.
    mike sr

  3. #43

    Default Pulsing

    Popspipes,

    I noticed it has been a couple days without a reply so I thought I would offer my two cents concerning pulse. Fair warning, I am not a weld engineer, but wanted offer my point of view anyway.

    First off, I'm not sure if we have done a good enough job explaining what is changing when you adjust the pulse parameters. Here is a rough guide:

    PPS = Pulses per second. This is basically the number of cycles that your machine will go from high amperage to low amperage in one second. This is also called Hertz

    PEAK t = Peak Time. This is the percent of time the machine spends in the high amperage portion of the pulse cycle. If you set this at 60%, you will spend 60% of each pulse cycle at your peak amperage (which is set at your main amperage control)

    BKGND A = Background Amperage. This is controling the amperage of the low portion of the pulse cycle as a percent of the peak amperage. Lets say you have your main amperage control (peak) set at 100 amps, and your BKGND A at 50%, your background amperage will be 50 amps.

    Judging by your comment of figuring out the average amperage, you are familiar with what you are adjusting so lets move on.

    Depending on what you want to accomplish with the pulse feature there are two basic methods of setting up your machine.

    If bead appearance (ripple pattern) is what you are interested in, I would suggest using a slow pulse parameter 2-5 PPS. This helps me time my filler metal dipping for that consistant ripple. Sometimes I am able to lay the filler in front of the puddle on the low portion of the pulse cycle and let the high portion of the pulse cycle expand the weld puddle to wick in the filler for me.

    I vary Peak Time percentage based on penetration and material thickness. The thicker the material the greater the peak time, but generally I stay between 40% and 60% (more often than not closer to 60%).

    I vary the BKGND A based on how fast I want to move. The higher the setting the faster I can move while maintaining a decent weld (I say decent, because ... well, I'm just not that good). Again, I start between 40% and 60%, but more often than not closer to the 40%

    The other basic method is high speed pulse (150 - 200 PPS). This can be useful for reducing heat affected zone and increasing travel speeds by creating a narrower/more focused arc cone which is a result of the higher speed pulse.

    You may need to start out with a slightly higher Peak Time (60-70%), or slightly higher BKGND A (50-60%) to get a good puddle formed.

    If you are not adding filler, you may see some really good results from higher speed pulse, but if you are adding filler do so like you normally would, or use the "lay wire" technique.

    Again, these are only starting points.

    Anyway, there are my two cents. I encourage others to add theirs'.

    As always, thank you for support of Miller and have a good day.
    Joe Ryan
    Industrial Marketing Specialist - TIG
    Miller Electric Mfg Co

  4. #44
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Los Angeles
    Posts
    2,846

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by popspipes View Post
    anyone have any input on the pulse feature? I have tried it on the turntable with the settings the dairy welder gave me and DC, if the average current on pulse equals the current setting on DC I cant tell any difference in the weld on .0625 stainless tube?
    I have noticed it is noisier and the tungsten point lasts longer on very low current settings.

    Someone jump in and tell me what I am doing wrong or not doing that I should etc...??

    According to that refrigerator door article it was a lifesaver to them, maybe I am using too thick material for it to make a real difference??

    The spot weld function is neat, I will just have to figure out something I can use it for.
    here's another article

    http://www.millerwelds.com/resources...-Productivity/
    Ed Conley
    http://www.screamingbroccoli.net/
    MM252
    MM211
    Passport Plus w/Spool Gun
    TA185
    Miller 125c Plasma 120v
    O/A set
    SO 2020 Bender
    You can call me Bacchus

  5. #45
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Hazelwood Mo USA
    Posts
    462

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Broccoli1 View Post
    Thanks Ed, I read the article, and I need to try again at higher pulse rates, I dont do stainless anymore other than showing my grandson how tig works etc.
    I think it will be benificial on these thin gage carbon steel pipes, I will go back to the higher frequency pulse and with the info from the last article, I may have a better idea of what to look for etc.

    Its hard to teach an old dog a new trick, but I am going to give it my best shot!!
    mike sr

  6. #46
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Hazelwood Mo USA
    Posts
    462

    Default

    Thanks Joe,
    I understand the procedure, and your post is helpful. I am concerned with what the benefits are etc. I guess the best way to find out is to experiment and see what happens, I am using 500 cycles and 50 percent peak and 20 percent background. It does make the tungsten point last longer as the low current (14amps) would be better suited to the .020 tungsten but that is so fragile I really dont like using it.
    I am going to experiment with a much higher current and less percentage on the peak and maintain the same average and see what it looks like. penetration isnt critical on this particular weld but it does need to look nice.
    I am thinking that my main problems are eyesight and hand control, both of which could be cured by shaving 40 years off my age ha!!
    It is a nice machine though, I tried stick the other day and it worked fine too.
    mike sr

  7. #47

    Default Question about Miller Dynasty 350 setup

    Hey to all from a new member,

    On the 14 pin Amphenol connector, which 2 (lettered) contacts would I use to hook up a remote momentary contact switch for 2T hold mode?

    Can I access the arc voltage for use with an automatic torch positioner? Can I get the voltage minus the starting high frequency?

    Thanks very much,

    David

    Edit: I found the answers on page 31 of the Dynasty 350 PDF.
    Last edited by David Malphrus; 09-26-2009 at 12:08 PM.

  8. #48

    Default

    Hi all
    Is it possible to upgrade "old style" 200DX to the new Blue Lightning arc starts? My DX was purchased new in 07.
    Thats the one issue i have had is that it does, on occasion, have erratic starts, other than that, an amazing machine.
    Thanks
    Millermatic 251/30a spoolgun
    Dynasty 200DX
    Syncrowave 250 c/w pulse module
    All adds up to a great home shop!

  9. #49
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Houston TX
    Posts
    240

    Default

    I do not believe that it is possible. This is due to the software and hardware differences on your machine.
    If I am wrong about that, you will soon hear different I am sure....... pg
    Dynasty 200 DX_set up on 3 phase
    Coolmate 3
    MM 251 w/ Spoolmatic 30A
    HTP 625 Micro Cut Plasma Cutter
    Victor O/A Rig
    Bridgeport Mill_3 phase (w/ Acu-Rite 4 axis DRO)
    10 inch South Bend Lathe_3 phase
    Baldor Double Cup Tool Grinder_3 phase
    Baldor 10 inch Buffer
    Rockwell 12 inch Disc Sander
    Cyclone 2ft X 3ft Bead Blast Cabinet
    Quincy 325 2stg- Air Compressor_3 phase
    Graymills Built-in Parts Washer
    Rockwell/Delta Planer, HD Shaper, Uni-Saw etc.


  10. #50

    Default

    You are absolutely right. I recieved a very speedy reply from Miller about this, and they said the same thing.
    Don't you hate it when stuff becomes obsolete so quick? I was thinking of selling the Dynasty as i have a new (to me) Syncrowave 250, but i might as well keep it, as i won't get much for the "old style".
    Millermatic 251/30a spoolgun
    Dynasty 200DX
    Syncrowave 250 c/w pulse module
    All adds up to a great home shop!

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