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  1. #11
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Posts
    241

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    One thing I might add when welding thin panels some of your distortion is going to be caused by your weld bead shrinking as it cools.You should hammer and dolly your beads as you connect the dots between your tack welds.This will help stretch the welds and minimize warpage,and remember anytime you cool the weld quickly with compressed air or water it will shrink the metal, let your welds cool slowly.Mike

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Posts
    119

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    Got it, good point. I didn't fully weld the patch panel in the first quarter, so I can hammer/dolly from this point on while finishing it.
    ________________
    Greg

    Miller 210
    Diversion 165

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Cleveland, TN
    Posts
    229

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    When you try the cut-off wheel method, keep it 90 deg. to the bead (like you're going to cut with it) and use light pressure so you don't dig into the base metal. Then switch to the "flapper" or sanding disc for a smoother finish.
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  4. #14
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Posts
    119

    Default

    Got it, thanks
    ________________
    Greg

    Miller 210
    Diversion 165

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    11

    Default

    could try using a heat sink if at all possible....worked wonders for any thin stuff I've ever done!!!!

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Park Ridge, IL
    Posts
    41

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    Quote Originally Posted by QuazI View Post
    could try using a heat sink if at all possible....worked wonders for any thin stuff I've ever done!!!!
    That's one of the coolest thing I've ever heard.

    any pics of the type of heat sink?

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Arizona
    Posts
    812

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    Quote Originally Posted by KarateBoy View Post
    That's one of the coolest thing I've ever heard.

    any pics of the type of heat sink?
    I use a big hunk of aluminum (2x4x6) and keep it in the freezer.
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  8. #18
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Cleveland, TN
    Posts
    229

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    Quote Originally Posted by KarateBoy View Post
    That's one of the coolest thing I've ever heard.

    any pics of the type of heat sink?
    Get about a 8-12" piece of 1" copper pipe from the hardware store, and flatten out about half of it. Then put about a 45 deg. angle on it. You can get fancy with a handle, or just wrap some electrical tape on it. You can make others with different sizes if needed.
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  9. #19
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    West Farmington, OH
    Posts
    746

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    Dull abrasives will create lots of heat while grinding. You can't use a grinding disk until it's worn completely down while doing body work. You have to keep putting fresh disks on or else you'll end up heating the panel up and warping it.

    Backstitch or backstep welding will also help to keep panel distortion down. Just imagine if you had to weld a new quarter panel on an Econoline van with an oxy acetelyne torch!! It's been done before.

    Hope this helps a bit.
    Blondie (Owner C & S Automotive)

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  10. #20
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Posts
    180

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    If the hardness of your MIG welds is a factor making grinding them down tedious, try .023 ESAB Easy Grind (available in 11 lb rolls and larger). It makes for softer and more malleable beads.

    If you keep your hammer/dolly work confined to just the weld, you can get the surrounding metal to return to it's original shape. When shrinkage occurs, it's just the weld puddle itself getting smaller, not the parent material.
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