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Thread: barstool.....

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Mission Hills, CA
    Posts
    48

    Default barstool.....

    hey got a question. the barstool miller has in the company store. the 17" x 17" measurment they give is that the outside width of the legs near the floor where they offset out?

    one more question if its the right size for what im building i need to shorten it once i cut and re weld it together would a chrome shop just re chrome the cut and weld areas or would they re chrome the whole darn thing? how about a ballpark price?

    here is the link to the stool in question. and yes im tried local places for a barstool. there WAY over priced and too small.

    http://www.millerweldsstore.com/gues...age=16&subcat=


    oh and heres the project
    Last edited by joey2589; 07-18-2009 at 08:21 PM.
    78' Miller AEAD-200LE
    08' Miller Matic 180 Autoset.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Salem ,Ohio
    Posts
    3,898

    Cool

    They will strip off the chrome and rechrome it. Powdercoat may be cheaper. They have some shines like chrome powder now...Bob
    Bob Wright, Grandson of Tee Nee Boat Trailer Founder
    Metal Master Fab Salem, Oh 44460
    Birthplace of the Silver & Deming Drill
    1999 MM185 w/185 Spoolgun,1986 Thunderbolt AC/DC
    Spool Gun conversion. How To Do It. Below.
    http://www.millerwelds.com/resources...php?albumid=48

  3. #3
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Gulfport, Florida
    Posts
    440

    Lightbulb Rabbit Run Competition

    Seems to Me the 17" is the widest part of the stool legs.
    Are you planning on mounting that stool on your cart.?? Hey maybe Miller will give you a stool for a promotion..!! Your cart with a torque converter will run like a jack rabbit. Looks like a nice job you did there...Slow up to 90MPH around the turns..

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Mission Hills, CA
    Posts
    48

    Default

    ya if its 17" it will fit on the chassis with out any mods. all id do is cut the height down so i have a lower COG. i sat a 30" stool on there that didn't fit but i was able to sit on it for a minute and get a feel for the height, it was way too high for me. in the area above the foot rest ring id most likley take 5" out of it to make it a little lower.

    cant wait to finish it and run with the 50cc pepboys quad in my neighborhood
    78' Miller AEAD-200LE
    08' Miller Matic 180 Autoset.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Gulfport, Florida
    Posts
    440

    Default

    Since your cart has a live axle seems like it would be hard to turn.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Mpls, MN
    Posts
    1,790

    Default

    Did you build the reeves drive on that? It looks pretty slick compared to the typical centrifugal clutches. Is there a clutch on that as well, or do you just open the pulley up so it's not engaged like on the older snowmobiles?

    I've got a 14hp electric start tecumseh engine I want to make a little "mule" out of but haven't found a clutch mechanism I like yet. The reeves setup makes me leery due to how wet performance might suffer.
    Syncrowave 250DX
    Invison 354MP
    XR Control and 30A

    Airco MED20 feeder
    Thermal Dynamics Cutmaster 81
    Smith O/A rig
    And more machinery than you can shake a 7018 rod at

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Mission Hills, CA
    Posts
    48

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by urch55 View Post
    Since your cart has a live axle seems like it would be hard to turn.
    yes it will be a challenge to turn but not much turning when going insainly fast..... most barstool racers are built with a live axel. too small of a chassis to try and build a diff into it.

    since i drew up this project its been 5 years of research and measurements and more research. and trying to fund it



    Quote Originally Posted by Fishy Jim View Post
    Did you build the reeves drive on that? It looks pretty slick compared to the typical centrifugal clutches. Is there a clutch on that as well, or do you just open the pulley up so it's not engaged like on the older snowmobiles?

    I've got a 14hp electric start tecumseh engine I want to make a little "mule" out of but haven't found a clutch mechanism I like yet. The reeves setup makes me leery due to how wet performance might suffer.
    not a custom built thing its actually from Comet industries.

    http://www.hoffcocomet.com/comet/

    they make all kinds of clutches for various applications. the one im using is the comet series 30 TAV2 TAV= toque a Verter. it will allow me to have enough low end grunt to pop a wheelie and enough top end speed to make it a white knuckle ride

    copied from comets site
    "TAV2 Torq-A-Verter
    This is an asymmetrical type torque converter system which means the sheave faces are non-symmetrical. They have different angles. In this case, the moveable sheave face is 18" while the stationary sheave face is 2-1/2" for a collective angle of 20-1/2". Here are some reasons for selecting the asymmetrical concept. The Torque-A-Verter can attain an .90:1 or 10% overdrive."

    check out there site jim and you may find what ya need to build your project.
    78' Miller AEAD-200LE
    08' Miller Matic 180 Autoset.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Island Falls Maine
    Posts
    562

    Default

    every one should have one of them.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Mpls, MN
    Posts
    1,790

    Default

    I'm actually leaning towards making a clutch similar to a cars.
    Syncrowave 250DX
    Invison 354MP
    XR Control and 30A

    Airco MED20 feeder
    Thermal Dynamics Cutmaster 81
    Smith O/A rig
    And more machinery than you can shake a 7018 rod at

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Cave Creek Az
    Posts
    965

    Default

    Remove the foot ring, cut and weld under that, sand and spray a clear paint over just the weld to keep it from rusting and remount the ring.

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