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  1. #21
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Deltaville, VA
    Posts
    2,239

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    Craig,

    First off, appreciate your taking the time to type that.

    Second. It's sorta funny. If the majority of the posters on this board had and used the two references you mentioned, a good 60% of the repetitious questions would not have to be asked.

    Not only would the answer be right there before their very eyes, but it would be a "detailed" and "verifiable" response, not like some of the responses I see coming from some posters on this board.

    There's a wealth of information to be obtained from these boards, but there's also a lot of "bad" information put out also. I guess, what I'm saying here, is a message board is no substitute for self study and real research.
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  2. #22

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    Hey guys, I guess I should pay attention the the previous posts before opening my big mouth. Somewhere in here........... I lost the part where we were talking about .120 wall thickness, oops. Sorry bout that. I'll pay more attention next time before I open mouth, insert foot. I really thought we were discussing thin wall tubing I guess if I had've payed attention to the title, I wouldn't be looking silly right now

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Park Ridge, IL
    Posts
    41

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by PLWeld View Post
    KarateBoy,
    I wanted to try and help clarify this burn through discussion. If you think about burn through, at what point of the weld bead does burn through take place? At the puddle, right? So, Sundowner is right. If you are using a pull technique in an already molten puddle and already extremely heated material, as you move along you are creating more heat and thus more molten temps than the thin wall can handle.......unless, of course, you stop welding and let it cool. With a pushing technique, you would essentially be pushing the filler metal into still solid material, which has not reached the temp of weld bead or puddle yet. does that help?

    Also, on the issue about weaving your weld bead, especially when welding tubing. The claim is that when weaving while welding this tubing is it generates even more heat than necessary and can cause undercutting at the shoulders of your weld bead. Make sense? I never weave when I'm welding thin wall tubing, just a nice, even straight bead and has always worked well for me.

    Make sense to me. I really prefer pulling the torch because its so much easier to see the puddle but maybe I'll need to learn to push too.

  4. #24
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Corona, CA
    Posts
    213

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by PLWeld View Post
    Hey guys, I guess I should pay attention the the previous posts before opening my big mouth. Somewhere in here........... I lost the part where we were talking about .120 wall thickness, oops. Sorry bout that. I'll pay more attention next time before I open mouth, insert foot. I really thought we were discussing thin wall tubing I guess if I had've payed attention to the title, I wouldn't be looking silly right now
    I forgive you,

    Ive misread things and responded to them that way before...not on this board yet though.
    Precision is only as important as the project...if you're building a rocket ship...1/64" would matter. If you're building a sledgehammer...an 1/8" probably wont.

  5. #25
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Midland, Mi.
    Posts
    313

    Default

    I build roll cages every day. .120 DOM. Pull the gun while weaving or making small circles. Not weaving the gun will pile up the bead on a tight joint.

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