Hmmm... I always get less of a crown with the pull so i had to check some references and alhough it does give better penetration (as stated by you, I and references i have found) the pull technique has always given me a lower profile and less rounded bead. Now i'm not argueing as there's too many variables that can be user/operator related, but just stating that i get lower profile beads with the pull technique when all other settings are the same on the machine and on the same material and joint type.
Sitting here thinking about it I would guess that the reason i get flatter beads is from the amount of stickout I end up running based on the technique i'm using at the time ( i tend to have more stickout when pushing)
As far as the rep telling you not to weave the bead from one part to another, I can't speak from a structural integrity standpoint but i do NOT weave when butt welding thin materials or working with tubing joints. I just use small bursts traveling in a forwad direction to avoid burn through. I should also add that i'm not nearly the weldor that 90% of the members here are, I'm more of a fab guy that welds, so i'm just speaking of what tends to work best for me.
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Thread: .120 Mild Steel Tubing Help
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07-19-2009, 03:32 PM #11
Dynasty 200DX
Hobart Handler 135
Smith MB55A-510 O/A setup
Lathe/Mill/Bandsaw
Hypertherm Powermax 45
Just about every other hand tool you can imagine




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