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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    JD2 Model 3 Bender
    Posts
    5

    Unhappy .120 Mild Steel Tubing Help

    Hi All, I am a 50 year old Boy rediscovering my Childhood,with my Kids (lots of Fun). Back In the Early 80s I build a Single Seat VW Desert Rail,out of .095 for the Chassis,and .120 for the Cage or "Top Half " of the Car,I had a Miller 200 which was almost new at the time and the car never cracked,bent,had a failed weld or otherwise and looked clean. Turn the Clock forward 28 years or so and I now have a Millermatic 175 loaded with .030 ER70S Wire with a 75%Argon/25% C02 Mix, I have a Nice JD2 Model 3 Bender,A JD2 Notchmaster Notcher,an OXy.Acetylene Rig,A Cheapie Chicago 130Amp TIG (never even turned it on),and every kind of CutOff,Sawing,Grinding Tool ,one could possibly want. I am trying to pass on some of my Welding Skills that I have developed over the years (some self taught/some Instructor Learned),I dont remember having such a hard time producing a consistent good looking weld. All of my joints are super good before welding.I am running 45 Voltage and 50ish wire speed with about 15 lbs. of gas. The machine sounds like it is happy,but my welds have a higher "crown" I guess you would call it than Looks good,the penetration is there obviously by looking at the tube afterwards.What do I need to do to "flatten down the bead,am I moving too slowly? I don't like to have to grind my beads down but they are just plain ugly if I do not. Everything I am welding is .095 Round Mild Steel Tubing. It kind of feels like the machine is pushing me too fast to get around the tube.How much time approx. should it take to MIG halfway around a 1.5 tube with an airtight notch? I only spent 30 minutes today,after at least 10 years off from welding before becoming frustrated,I am in Vegas and it's 116 today in the garage which does not help,I don't have any fans or anything blowing my Shield away,and it sounds like a happy weld,no popping or anything.I did run out of .030 tips so I was welding with an .035 tip on .030 wire,would that cause a problem. Thanks for listening and any advice in advance,I have been reading through all of the tube related forums,I am not lazy and ignoring the questions already asked many times to the best of my knowledge.Thanks Again In Advance for anyone who might have an Obsevation or suggestion,Vegas

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    las vegas
    Posts
    226

    Default

    Im no expert but i had the same trouble with bead appearance a few weeks back and someone had changed the tip on me, so that might be your problem. Try that and hope it works for you. Im a vegas local too, Post pics of the project im sure everyone would love to see them.
    Syncrowave 250
    Millermatic 210
    dialarc 250
    spectrum 375x
    trailblazer 302
    Lincoln 135

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    JD2 Model 3 Bender
    Posts
    5

    Default

    Here is a Pic of the bumper I am working on now,I was welding the "ladder pipes today between the 2 long pipes,after I was tacked ,I clamped it to the bench at a 45 so that the welds would be close to flat and I would be a comfortable as possible,I will post a pic of the welds tomorrow so you can see what I am talking about. Thanks,Vegas
    Attached Images Attached Images

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    las vegas
    Posts
    226

    Default

    hey looks good like i said though change that tip it will really screw you up, for critical appearance welding with the mig. Just my two cents someone please correct me if im wrong. just my experiences.
    Syncrowave 250
    Millermatic 210
    dialarc 250
    spectrum 375x
    trailblazer 302
    Lincoln 135

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Omaha, NE
    Posts
    447

    Default

    Well this is a long shot and ASSumes everything else is set correctly, but besides the tip have you tried using a "pulling" technique instead of pushing the bead? It will penetrate deeper and have a lower profile bead compared to pushing it. And it is just like it sounds, instead of walking the cup/gun forward over the bead you're welding, work it backwards and away from the bead as you weld. I've heard there's a few more benefits such as longer shieling exposure to the cooling weld but i can't think of the others :P

    Also you may just have the wire speed too high or be moving too slowly, then depending on the toes of the bead you can determine how you are sitting as far as volts/amps
    Dynasty 200DX
    Hobart Handler 135
    Smith MB55A-510 O/A setup
    Lathe/Mill/Bandsaw
    Hypertherm Powermax 45
    Just about every other hand tool you can imagine

  6. #6
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Gulfport, Florida
    Posts
    440

    Default

    Vegas: you have some great suggestions to choose from. I would think you need to slow up your wire speed.

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