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  1. #11
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Red Deer, Alberta
    Posts
    19

    Default

    Could you not just cut all sides but 1, then heat her up and let it streatch back to normal. By leaving one side tacked to the frame it won't be so likly to buckel/bow.

  2. #12
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Posts
    180

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by overkill 19 View Post
    Could you not just cut all sides but 1, then heat her up and let it streatch back to normal. By leaving one side tacked to the frame it won't be so likly to buckel/bow.
    The frame below the tabletop is warped the same as the 1/2" plate. So, no matter whether I cut the top free from all of the welds or just a few, I'll have to shim beneath the straightened top before I reattach it to the curved frame. From that perspective, it makes more sense I think to free the plate from all of the welds. Maybe tomorrow. I'll decide what to do about the crown in the plate after I measure it free of the frame.

    FK is right, there are too many welds holding the top on now. I think the excess heat from those beads and the ones holding the frame together is what bent the top in the first place. I'll not make the same mistake when reattaching the top; fewer welds applied with better timing and spacing are better.
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  3. #13
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Arizona
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    812

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    You might have a difficult time with 1/2", but when I made my table (3/8") I attached it to the frame by welding some nuts to the table (on the bottom of course), welded some spacers on the frame and bolted it down. This let me pull the table straight by adjusting the bolts.
    Of course if you had access to a really big mill, you could just grind it flat!
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  4. #14
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Okotoks Alberta Canada
    Posts
    919

    Default $50

    you only paid $50 for the table!, cut the warped plate off and add a new top. For me to buy all the HSS castors and plate to build that table it would cost around 2-$300, so dont waste your time with a rosebud, or cutting some of the welds and try bending it back, your wasting your time, just replace the top
    DODGE 1 TON 6.7
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  5. #15
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Lake of the Ozarks MO
    Posts
    3,528

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by pipeline Dan View Post
    you only paid $50 for the table!, cut the warped plate off and add a new top. For me to buy all the HSS castors and plate to build that table it would cost around 2-$300, so dont waste your time with a rosebud, or cutting some of the welds and try bending it back, your wasting your time, just replace the top

    But dude...what would that prove??? It's the principle
    Besides if he wasn't all hung up on the stinkin' galvanize, it would almost come back flat simply by flipping it and welding it back down in the same spots. And if not at least everything would stay on the table
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  6. #16
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Posts
    1,508

    Default

    It is nice to have a flat welding table, in time they all seem to develop low spots. With welding dogs, clips, brackets, and whatever to them, then grinding them all back off, wallah low spot!

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Lake of the Ozarks MO
    Posts
    3,528

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Sonora Iron View Post
    It is nice to have a flat welding table, in time they all seem to develop low spots. With welding dogs, clips, brackets, and whatever to them, then grinding them all back off, wallah low spot!

    Which is exactly why I find no use for the galvanize...may as well be painted IMO
    A welding table is a tool... not something to worry about keeping the finish nice.
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  8. #18
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    greenfield new hampshire
    Posts
    876

    Default right on

    a table is a tool, so is a big hammer, both of which meet often, i built mine 25 yrs ago out of a 4x5x1.5 plate which was straight when new, not now and never will be, i use it

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Posts
    1,508

    Default

    A nice flat surface to work on is very convenient, makes fabing things up fast. But if you cannot work on an uneven surface you’re in big trouble in the fabrication world. The bigger the project, I go from tri-squares, framing squares, 6-inch torpedo levels to 24-inch, and 48-inch carpenter levels, to laser levels, to 98s, to total stations. Batter boards with weighted piano wire. All depends on the tolerances and size of project.


    Forgot to mention: Mercury filled plumb bobs, or at least brass bobs with coffee cans 3/4 filled with oil.
    Last edited by Sonora Iron; 07-14-2009 at 11:15 AM.

  10. #20
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Gulfport, Florida
    Posts
    440

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Sonora Iron View Post
    A nice flat surface to work on is very convenient, makes fabing things up fast. But if you cannot work on an uneven surface you’re in big trouble in the fabrication world. The bigger the project, I go from tri-squares, framing squares, 6-inch torpedo levels to 24-inch, and 48-inch carpenter levels, to laser levels, to 98s, to total stations. Batter boards with weighted piano wire. All depends on the tolerances and size of project.


    Forgot to mention: Mercury filled plumb bobs, or at least brass bobs with coffee cans 3/4 filled with oil.
    Are the cans also used for storing Titanium chips and grindings so you don't have any fires.? That's what the Wicked One does with His chips.!

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