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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Kansas City Metro
    Posts
    387

    Default Getting into a safe.











    I had the neighbor call me up this weekend and ask if I thought I had something to cut into a safe. My first question was (is it your's?). Well he had a good friend of his pass, and the safe was left to my neighbor. Tonight was the first chance I had so I backed his truck over to my driveway. A few minutes with the metabo and we were in from the back side. I was able to unbolt the locking bolts and get the door open. The reason for this is that the locksmith wants 475 dollars to get inside and then fix the lock-set to a new combination. If the door is open he will fix the lock for 175 dollars. The pics arnt the greatest but here they are. Oh yes, the top, bottom, and sides are 3/16th plate bent and welded and the door is 3/8th.








    I know it wasnt anything really wild but I thought it was pretty cool.
    Last edited by tom37; 06-30-2009 at 10:18 PM.

    Miller 211 A.S. and Spoolmate 100
    Stickmate LX 235 AC / 160 DC.
    Clarke 180 EN Just in case
    Spectrum 375 X-Treme.
    O/A Medium Radnor Torch, Large Victor Torch.
    Milwaukee 14" Chop Saw.
    4 x 6 Horizontal Band Saw.
    Rockworth 80 Gallon 2 Stage 16 SCFM @ 175 PSI , 15 SCFM @ 90 PSI.
    Jackson Passive shade #5 for the plasma.
    I almost forgot the Hobart XVP AD Hood.


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  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Mpls, MN
    Posts
    1,790

    Default

    What was in it?
    Syncrowave 250DX
    Invison 354MP
    XR Control and 30A

    Airco MED20 feeder
    Thermal Dynamics Cutmaster 81
    Smith O/A rig
    And more machinery than you can shake a 7018 rod at

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Abilene, Texas
    Posts
    639

    Default

    Shop around before paying $175 just to change the combination!!!!!! That's way high.
    Jim

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Kansas City Metro
    Posts
    387

    Default

    Sorry guys I forgot about what was in it.

    There was several leather goods, such as coin holder, wallet, and pouch with 4 old watches. Some rocks. And I dont think they were the kind of rocks that are worth money. There was a clarinet, complete with all the parts and a nice case. Oh yes there was a small pill case with a tooth in it. I'm not sure why the tooth was in there.

    The neighbor is going to check on the lock fix tomorrow. I know nothing about the locking mech. This one has a dial for the combination, with a key hole below and to the right of the dial. Then there is a 3 knob dial to turn the bolts after the lock releases. I almost want to think that from the setup inside, that you may have to have the key and the combination.

    Miller 211 A.S. and Spoolmate 100
    Stickmate LX 235 AC / 160 DC.
    Clarke 180 EN Just in case
    Spectrum 375 X-Treme.
    O/A Medium Radnor Torch, Large Victor Torch.
    Milwaukee 14" Chop Saw.
    4 x 6 Horizontal Band Saw.
    Rockworth 80 Gallon 2 Stage 16 SCFM @ 175 PSI , 15 SCFM @ 90 PSI.
    Jackson Passive shade #5 for the plasma.
    I almost forgot the Hobart XVP AD Hood.


    Projects and Misc Albums
    http://picasaweb.google.com/keesfriend Feel Free to Have a Look ( Just keep in mind I am an amateur )

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    dallas,tx
    Posts
    207

    Default

    Thats looks to be a McGunn B-rate safe. Used in a lot of convenience type stores in the midwest. McGunn is now defunct. 175 is a bit on the high side to reset a combo, Since it is in the back of the truck, he can drive it to a lockshop and avoid paying a service call which is about 75-90 bucks

  6. #6
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Gulfport, Florida
    Posts
    440

    Exclamation A Safe is not Safe around Tom

    Tom now you can add safe cracking, cutting, getting into on your resume.. Looks like a nice weld job putting the patch back in.
    Bob

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Kansas City Metro
    Posts
    387

    Default

    Thank You strength and power, for the possible name of the safe. The neighbor was wondering who is was made by since it has no name anywhere on it.

    Well he called around today and found that his good buddy locksmith was gona slam the bill right in his kester!!

    40 bucks will get it in working order, he is going to lift the door off the hinge and run it in the store.


    Over 100 bucks to 40, really makes ya wounder what good buddies are for.

    Thank You for the compliment urch.

    Miller 211 A.S. and Spoolmate 100
    Stickmate LX 235 AC / 160 DC.
    Clarke 180 EN Just in case
    Spectrum 375 X-Treme.
    O/A Medium Radnor Torch, Large Victor Torch.
    Milwaukee 14" Chop Saw.
    4 x 6 Horizontal Band Saw.
    Rockworth 80 Gallon 2 Stage 16 SCFM @ 175 PSI , 15 SCFM @ 90 PSI.
    Jackson Passive shade #5 for the plasma.
    I almost forgot the Hobart XVP AD Hood.


    Projects and Misc Albums
    http://picasaweb.google.com/keesfriend Feel Free to Have a Look ( Just keep in mind I am an amateur )

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Posts
    19

    Default

    Try taking the cover off the inside where the dial is. You may see how easy it is to change the combinations on some safes. On my MOSLER safe there are 3 brass rings with engraved numbers that mount via a 100 tooth spline. Changing the combinaition is as simple as removing the rings and lining the numbers you want for the combination up with arrows on the hub.
    Miller Econotig
    Hypertherm 380 Plasma
    Hobart LX235 AC/DC Stick
    Lenco Spot
    Dan-Mig 5000

    O/A Smith rig

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Near Dallas, TX
    Posts
    214

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by gda View Post
    Try taking the cover off the inside where the dial is. You may see how easy it is to change the combinations on some safes. On my MOSLER safe there are 3 brass rings with engraved numbers that mount via a 100 tooth spline. Changing the combinaition is as simple as removing the rings and lining the numbers you want for the combination up with arrows on the hub.
    Most combo locks I've seen have a change key. You insert the change key into the backside of the lock. Give the key a 1/4 turn. Dial in the new combo using the 'changing mark' instead of the 'opening mark' (changing mark is at the 11 o'clock position instead of the 12 o'clock). Give the key a 1/4 turn in the opposite direction and remove the key. Test the new combo by locking and unlocking the door without closing it. All total maybe 5 minutes. If there's a keyhole on the backside of the lock, I'd start looking at buying or making a change key (square stock with a little tab, or something similar)

    Dynasty200DX w/coolmate1
    MM210
    MM Vintage
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    Victor O/A, Smith AW1A
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  10. #10
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    southwestern ohio
    Posts
    272

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by urch55 View Post
    Tom now you can add safe cracking, cutting, getting into on your resume.. Looks like a nice weld job putting the patch back in.
    Bob
    Also be sure to add
    welding the safe back together to hide the evidince.
    This is an automotive discussion forum that has some great infromation

    www.autobodytoolmart.com/shoptalk

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