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Thread: Driveway Gate

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    130

    Default

    Here's a 10" privacy gate I built for a customer -
    This one's pretty simple but you can see the possibiliteis
    [IMG][/IMG]

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    toronto,ontario
    Posts
    90

    Default re gate

    hey monte,when i hang these types of gates i always go heavier with the posts as they support the weight ,As for the post make them plumb and hang your gate on the top hinge and leave your bottom hinge off until you level the gate then add shims if required and then tack and finish weld it.I put a couple pics in so you could look and if you have any questions feel free to drop me a line ,hope that helped ...
    Attached Images Attached Images

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    New Orleans, LA
    Posts
    161

    Default

    King Architectural has all kinds of gate stuff. Arch tops, punched channel for setting pickets (saves tremendous amounts of time), complete kits I think, pickets with welded spear points, another time saver, lot's of different hinges. Just about anything you could want and lot's of stuff I can't get here locally. Their prices on 1/2 pickets with welded spear points can't be beat. I try to use a double post setup for the swing side down here and actually recommend double gates as opposed to 10+ feet. I am in New Orleans and the ground down here leaves a lot to be desired. It's a giant sponge. I always use at least a 3" square 1/4 wall tube or 4 inch depending on the gate size. I also use 3" schedule 40 pipe. Both with 3 feet in the ground concreted in. Now if they are mounted to columns it is a totally different story. On a 5 or 6 foot gate I put at least one horizontal crosspiece, sometimes two or three if I can get the property owner to go for it. I try to avoid the cross brace if I can. Once you build the frame, put the cross piece in and weld the pickets in it is pretty rigid. I usually build them about a half inch out of square to the top corner of the unsupported side and use adjustable hinges (they will always droop after a while). If I use a crosspiece I run it from the bottom corner on the post side to the top corner on the unsupported side. It is self loading and built in compression. I like 1 x 2 because of the looks, but go with what the customer wants and how it fits in with other fencing, decorative iron, etc.
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