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  1. #11
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Corona, CA
    Posts
    213

    Default

    The stacked dime appearance comes from steady heat, steady movement, and consistant rod movement. Distance from the torch to the work piece also affects that.

    Everything has to be clean, stainless brush, acetone, those things are essential.

    RCGRT- I was just curious, because someone else did a little joke like that a short time ago. Those welds look good, and I wish that i was capable of practicing a little more...but I currently dont have access to a tig welder, and thus no tig welding.

    Its been a while since Ive been able to tig aluminum, but I always enjoyed it.
    Precision is only as important as the project...if you're building a rocket ship...1/64" would matter. If you're building a sledgehammer...an 1/8" probably wont.

  2. #12

    Default

    On Fire Most of the Time -

    Yeah, as far as the appearance goes, thats pretty much what I have learned so far.

    Oh no problem at all, Yeah I think I know what thread your talking about. Those were some very professional looking welds!

    Thanks again
    ---Machinist playing weldor---
    TA 185 AC/DC

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Oswego IL
    Posts
    625

    Default tigging....

    I by no means am an expert of tig welding but can say thats what my beads looked like after about 3 hours of practice on alum. However let me say this I have been welding aluminum with a spoolgun for the last 5 years. Have been a welder for 10 years so making decent welds is not that hard.
    If this guy has never welded before, than I would say its pretty darn good. But Mig, Stick welding has a lot of carry overs to tig welding. In both cases consistent and steady hand movement, correct voltage, proper prep, all contribute to a bettar weld. Yes with tig, the heat, and filler rod is on you but the puddle has the same fluidness. We all know what happens with to much/to litte heat in any process...
    Kevin

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