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  1. #31
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
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    when your adding your filler get you a puddle on both sides>VERY IMPORTANT< if you only see the puddle on one side rock your cup to get you a puddle on both sides ,keep your filler rod close to the base metal & outside your puddle then push it close to the puddle until it sucks the rod into the puddle...thats where i add it...turn the amps up a little to get it flowing right...balance does make a big different,more on the dynasty 350 then on the syncrowave 350...the sand look i still don't know i weld with 4043 or 5356 with no sand look like you show...i do like 5356 better...take a short piece of each filler rod same diameter 4043 & 5356 & bend it & see the big difference in the 2 metals,4043 almost kinks...5356 works great on cast aluminum like yamaha boat motor skegs...i think if you had a push button on your rig you would have more control...if you see it getting to hot let off the button,to cold hold the button...that's one reason i only use 100% green tungsten when i weld aluminum it stays lit longer...

  2. #32
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
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    199

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    i have found this color to be from running to cold...

    Quote Originally Posted by RCGRT View Post
    Well I have tried all that was suggested above. The bead still appears very grity like, and not shiny at all. Also on my last pass I noticed the very tip of the tungsten was a very clear purple-ish blue color, right on the very tip, above that turned a bit yellowish gold. Whats up with that?

  3. #33

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    thunder71 -

    When you say get a puddle going on "both sides", do you mean as in a puddle on the leading and trailing side of the electrode, or as in to the left and right of the electrode? On the comment about the finger button, does the button control the amps? or does it simply turn the current "on" and "off". Thanks again.
    ---Machinist playing weldor---
    TA 185 AC/DC

  4. #34
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Hazelwood Mo USA
    Posts
    456

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    Quote Originally Posted by RCGRT View Post
    popspipes -

    Thanks again. I will for sure get some. Yeah, a few have said the same thing about the part getting too hot. I will have to play with it to get a feel for it. If my part is say, 1/8 thick, (2"x4"). How many amps would you suggest? Also, at the start of the bead, should I start out pushing right to max heat, or should the heat be eased into at all? Also, how long do you suggest for post flow time on an example such as this?

    75 amps maybe, try it and see, the coupon will heat up quickly as its so small.
    I usually start at less than full pedal, keep increasing it till it puddles, then watch for the shiny pool and add filler, keep it close to the base metal and add it quickly or it will melt the filler before it gets to the puddle. I set the post flow long enough that the tungsten cools. I think mine is about 5 seconds.
    Keep at it , you will get the hang of it, I learned by the seat of my pants about 40 years ago, the machines werent nearly as feature packed as they are today ha!! I had an on off switch and a crank handle for current control on an old lincoln Idealiarc!
    I used to drop the current for thin or small parts by using 3/32" ss filler rods in the ground lead, definitely not ideal but it did work after a fashion ha!!

    Enjoy the technology, I for one really appreciate it..................

    mike sr

  5. #35
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
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    199

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    the button is just on/off...set your heat on the machine & use the button for welding...you can set your cup right where you want it ,pull your shield down,push the button & weld...when i say puddle on both sides i meen the 2 pieces you are welding together you should have a nice shinny fluid puddle on both pieces that you are welding before putting your filler in...the only way i tig now is with this button...



  6. #36

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    popspipes -

    Yeah technology certainly changes things. I have seen a few guys here talk about how the transformer machines seem to have different characteristics over the inverter machines (which is what i have). Everything else you recommended sounds good, next time I give it a try I'll post some more pics.
    ---Machinist playing weldor---
    TA 185 AC/DC

  7. #37

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    thunder71 -

    Oh ok i see. Thanks. I had the option when I bought the machine to get a torch with built in on/off, but I opted for the foot control so I wasnt stuck with a "specialized" torch, in the event that I needed to replace it. I was also hoping to add a finger control, but havent had a chance to look into it yet, I'm not sure what Thermal Arc offers for this machine. The first thing I did when I got the machine was put a small kart together for it, after I preped everything and layed it out on the FLOOR, I got myself ready to tack it up, and it suddenly hit me....How am I going to press that pedal crawling around on the ground... I was able to grunt thru it, but I will certianly look into the button. I just wasnt sure if they actually control the amps or just turn it on and off. Thanks again.
    ---Machinist playing weldor---
    TA 185 AC/DC

  8. #38
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Hazelwood Mo USA
    Posts
    456

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    I am still learning just like you, most of my tigging was stainless tube in dairys and bakeries, and I was a pretty fair stick weldor too (steel tanks and piping). I am kind of a "wannabee" aluminum weldor. Thunder71, FusionKing, SundownIII, and others do lots of it and offer a lot of good advice.

    mike sr

  9. #39
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Posts
    199

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    yeah sux when you got to drag that pedal everywhere....you don't need to adjust the heat while welding aluminum once you get it set...i don't anyway...push the button real fast & you get low heat ,hold the button on & you get plenty of heat...

  10. #40

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    Cool, thanks for all the good advice. Yeah they all seem to be very knowledgable and experienced. I will keep reading for more good tips.
    ---Machinist playing weldor---
    TA 185 AC/DC

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