Aluminum Help Please

[FABMAN]

try a different filler, like 5356.
i had the exact problem using 4043 filler, the bead looking sandy, but when i used the 5356 filler the bead looked perfect.

leonard

[RCGRT]

FABMAN -

That is exactly what i tried. It still appears very sandy/gritty??? Here is a new pic with the 5356.

Thanks to all, for all the suggetions.

[spence648]

try less torch angle it looks to me like your burning the filler rod off before it gets in the gas shield.

[RCGRT]

Spence648 -

Thanks, that is something I have not tried yet. So lets say the torch is held perfectly perpendicular to the part, the filler should be dipped straight into the leading side of the puddle just in front of the arc?

Thanks

[spence648]

yes. from the torch at a 90 on the work piece. titlt it back 15 to 20 degrees or so, and add the filler just like you stated. if your at 45 degree angle or so that is too much and you will melt the filler before it makes it to the gas. result will be contaminated puddle as soon as it reaches the piece. if you watch while doing this you can see the black specs flow right from the rod to the puddle. i see you said you noticed the arc gets wider the farther away you get with the electrode. this is because on a tig welder the volts are controlled by arc distance. the farther you get the volts go up and you get more heat.

[RCGRT]

Spence648 -

Thanks, Yes that is what I am seeing, little black stuff floating right in as I was dipping. Have you read the thread "Aluminum Filler" ? They are saying that there is something in the 4043 that gives it that sandy appearance. And 5356 does better. Also read there that the inverter machines seem to cause this as well. Or that you have to move pretty fast. ???

[spence648]

are you still getting the sandy look. i use 4043 all the time and do get it once in a while but not all the time. ive noticed it appears real bad when the piece is getting too hot. you dont want to overheat aluminum as it will become soft and weak. if you over heat it to much it will turn a yellowish tint and be dead soft. also ive found that cheap filler rods tend to do it more too. for a quality 4043 filler rod or any series i strongly recomend alcotec. but for practicing dont be afraid to play around with cheap stuff. practice heat control on a few beads to get a feel for what the aluminum will do. run one too hot,run one too cold, just to see the difference. keep in mind that a small piece like in your pics will heat up very quickly then need less amps to weld.

[RCGRT]

Spence648 -

Thanks, I'll try that.

[Frank Motoweld]

Please check Fabman's thread and see what i wrote him on cleanlyness.The work pieces and filler rods must be chemicaly cleaned to remove oils and grease.They must be brushed with a stainless steel wire brush that you ONLY ude on aluminium.And then use a clean rag with a little chemical(lacquer thinner)to remove the oxy dust from the brushing.Dont use a regular steel brush,the steel bristles have oils on them that will end your hopes of good welds.The tungsten must be clean and not have touched the work.If there is contact with the work or filler rods stop and regrind the electrode.While you're in there clean the inside of the cup and wipe the diffuser for good measure.If your 100% argon or argon/helium mix is set for good coverage and the machine is also set right things should improve.As for filler rods being new,well there new to you but may have been made for a while and sat in the store for months so...clean and brush them too until they feel harder to brush.The resistance means you've gone through the oxydation.Frank

[snowman6058]

Wipe your filler rods down with acetone before using them. They oxidize just like any other AL.

That is a very good answer that I never thought about.. TY I'm welding cast alum to 6061 and they don't like each other. So I run my tig on 220 amps and preheat the cast until I think it is going to fall out..and then come up on the 6061 plate and make it run into the cast!!

Snowman6058