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  1. #31
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Corona, CA
    Posts
    213

    Default

    94 Subie...fun times. I have no experience working on them...wish I could help you out a little more than that.

    You mentioned that the "retention" device was a bent up washer thing (much nicer than cotter pins IMO)...did it just have one side bent up, or did it have 2?

    Are you using just a breaker bar, or have you tried an impact on it? I wouldnt add heat to that area till I knew for sure though if you could replace just the bearing, or if it was a whole assembly...if you replace the assembly...go nuts. Wont bite you in the end.

    Have you tried just putting a smaller socket around the axle, and in contact with the nut, and smacking that with a hammer? Sometimes ive found that it helps. Not always, but something more to try.

    Youll probably find that you need to get that nut at the dealer...and itll probably be like 6 bucks or so.

    By now I think id probably be at the nut cracking stage as well...stubborn hardware frustrates me.

    Good luck.

  2. #32
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    near rochester NY
    Posts
    9,881

    Default

    the nut has a collar on the outside that gets one spot bent into a grove in the axle.
    I'll try to remember to get a pic of it. i still have not gotten it off yet.

    yes i tried an impact hammer on it but mine is kinda on the sissy side, old and losing its bang so to speak.

    between the nut on the car and the wifes computer i am batting 0 for 2 at the moment. but moms comp is getting a little bit better slowly.
    thanks for the help
    ......or..........
    hope i helped

    feel free to shoot me an e-mail direct i have time to chat. james@newyorkmetalart.com
    summer is here, plant a tree. if you don't have space or time to plant one sponsor some one else to plant one for you. a tree is an investment in our planet, help it out.
    JAMES

  3. #33
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Deltaville, VA
    Posts
    2,239

    Default

    Jesus Christ,

    A danged beaver could have gnawed that nut off by now.

    James, it sounds like little nuts are causing a lot of problems in your life. I suspect that two other "little ones" are going to cause you a lot more grief over time.

    Good luck with the half shaft.

  4. #34
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    near rochester NY
    Posts
    9,881

    Thumbs up

    well my brother Finlay came over to help and we promptly broke 3 breaker bars.LOL
    lucky for me one of them was my craftsmen, so they replaced it with a new one.the new one was much stronger then the old one and with it (24" breaker bar 1/2", an 8 ft. fence post and my O/A torch we managed to get the nut off.
    after a bit more investigation we found the bearing is pressed in, so we need to get a few more things together be for doing the replacement. we need to pull the ball joints and strut, to get the hub off so we can get the old bearing out and press in a new one. still looking around for some one that can press in the new bearing, with no luck so far. so i may have to rent a kit from auto zone that will let me do it here at home. if all gets lined up right and goes well i should have it replaced this weekend.

    thanks for all the help guys.
    thanks for the help
    ......or..........
    hope i helped

    feel free to shoot me an e-mail direct i have time to chat. james@newyorkmetalart.com
    summer is here, plant a tree. if you don't have space or time to plant one sponsor some one else to plant one for you. a tree is an investment in our planet, help it out.
    JAMES

  5. #35
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    kelowna bc
    Posts
    12

    Default

    invest in a service manual if you intend to keep the car. With 200,000 miles on it, you will probably be making good use of it in the future. A proper manual is worth it's weight in gold. It will tell you what dirction thread, how to remove the bearing, and all the proper torque values for reassembly. Don't skimp on parts if your wife and kids use the vehicle. Replace the bearings, axle boots and repack the joints (outer joint has most wear). If they are bad, re-man axles are fairly reasonably priced now. Assemble properly, torque everything to spec. While you are in there, a brake job might be in order. Check all the steering links too. good luck!

  6. #36
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    near rochester NY
    Posts
    9,881

    Thumbs up

    LOL thats good advice, and kind of funny as it was on my list of to get things for today....... you reading my mind......
    short read.
    i been going to the auto store to look at theres fairly regularly. at the moment for a flashing check engine light. the book gives you the flash codes. i had to replace a bad temp sensor that was messing up the choke causing really bad starts.


    so Chilton's or Haynes manual ?? aether one a better option or both about the same ?
    thanks for the help
    ......or..........
    hope i helped

    feel free to shoot me an e-mail direct i have time to chat. james@newyorkmetalart.com
    summer is here, plant a tree. if you don't have space or time to plant one sponsor some one else to plant one for you. a tree is an investment in our planet, help it out.
    JAMES

  7. #37
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    Buffalo, NY area
    Posts
    37

    Default

    Hey - IMO the Chilton & Haynes manuals are trash. You can get a shop manual from the dealer but they are not cheap. Might watch ebay etc. for a used shop manual.

    Here's a 1999 Legacy set for $75:

    http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...6743&viewitem=

    Not sure if it was mentioned here but an impact gun would have probably saved a lot of agravation on this CV nut. **** bring that Subi by my shop and we'll swap them CV's in a jiffy...

    Tom
    Last edited by tomasharvey; 06-24-2009 at 09:49 AM.
    Tom
    Dynasty SD
    Millermatic 130

    "Too Bad Those Who Know It All Can't Do it All"

  8. #38
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    las vegas
    Posts
    225

    Default

    Sorry for your frustration. i have worked in diesel mechanics for about 8 years now and my best advice would to get a metal chisel, heat the nut up red hot and get the chisel and a 4lb sledge it should come off. or if it accessible take the grinder to it tell it just breaks off without damaging the threads. hope thats helps and im not confused with something else. post a pic if you can.
    Syncrowave 250
    Millermatic 210
    dialarc 250
    spectrum 375x
    trailblazer 302
    Lincoln 135

  9. #39
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    kelowna bc
    Posts
    12

    Default

    i agree that the factory manual is what you need. Is it fuel injected, or does it have a feedback carb system? Oxygen sensor and egr valve are 2 common trouble spots with higher mileage units, they get 'tired' over time (like me!). if it still runs ok, don't worry too much about the light coming on. The system is set up with parameters for rich/lean etc, and if the ecu senses anything outside those parameters, it turns on the light, even though it may only be slightly out (for example, parameters may be values from 1 to 10, and your sleepy oxygen sensor hits 11 now and then, your engine light will go on, but really there's no big problem). Try unhookong and re connecting the battery for a few seconds. Light might not come on again for a while..... or take out the bulb haha! Subaru makes a good product, i know there's lots of those little pancake engines powering many a homebuilt plane; can't be all bad!

  10. #40
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Wisconsin
    Posts
    1

    Default

    Hey, next time you are working on a Subaru, head over to NASIOC.com There are a lot of guys on there with a lot of experience, just make sure you do a search before asking a question or you will be flamed! The guys over there specialize mostly in Impreza's and Legacy's. Just stay away from the ricer boys that like to hang out there.

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