i cant seem to get it to break loose. any one know if its reverse threaded ?? i tried both direction with no luck. after dinner i intend to put the wheel back on, take another shot at it with the breaker bar and cheater pole. but would really like to know I'm forcing it in the right direction.
thanks for the help
Results 1 to 10 of 40
Thread: need help with hack shaft nut ??
-
04-08-2009, 03:40 PM #1
need help with hack shaft nut ??
thanks for the help
......or..........
hope i helped
feel free to shoot me an e-mail direct i have time to chat.
james@newyorkmetalart.com
summer is here, plant a tree. if you don't have space or time to plant one sponsor some one else to plant one for you. a tree is an investment in our planet, help it out.
JAMES
-
04-08-2009, 04:37 PM #2
Normally right hand thread, but there are some wierd things I have not seen.
Also they are loctite held so, put some heat on it before you put the wrench on it. Do not over heat it, just enough to swell the nut and not the shaft it is held to.
Peace,
Paul
-
04-08-2009, 04:57 PM #3
thanks, i'll put the map gas to it and give it another try.
thanks for the help
......or..........
hope i helped
feel free to shoot me an e-mail direct i have time to chat.
james@newyorkmetalart.com
summer is here, plant a tree. if you don't have space or time to plant one sponsor some one else to plant one for you. a tree is an investment in our planet, help it out.
JAMES
-
04-09-2009, 07:14 AM #4
well so far the nut is wining.

I'll break out the torches later today after the wife takes her drivers license road test. its about time she gets around to getting her license.
i have to wonder why there is no grease fitting on this thing to get some grease in the bearings ?? the u-joints inside the boots get no grease due to location, but you would think the wheel bearing would have a grease fitting ??
at a little over 200,000 mil. i would like to grease it up a bit. thinking of taking off the boots to grease the u-joints in the hack shaft as well. but for the moment i just want to get to the wheel bearing. I'm a bit concerned about putting too much heat to it and causing damage to the bearings. any chance they have a rubber seal in them ??thanks for the help
......or..........
hope i helped
feel free to shoot me an e-mail direct i have time to chat.
james@newyorkmetalart.com
summer is here, plant a tree. if you don't have space or time to plant one sponsor some one else to plant one for you. a tree is an investment in our planet, help it out.
JAMES
-
04-09-2009, 08:25 AM #5
Hey Fun...What is a hack shaft?
Nick
Miller 252 Mig
Miller Cricket XL
Millermatic 150 Mig
Miller Syncrowave 200 Tig
2-O/A outfits
Jet Lathe and Mill
Jet 7x12 horz/vert band saw
DeWalt Multi Cutter metal saw
Century 50 Amp Plasma Cutter
20 ton electric/hydraulic vertical press
Propane Forge
60" X 60" router/plasma table
www.youtube.com/watch?v=jTu7wicVCmQ
Vist my site: www.nixstuff.com
and check out some of my ironwork and other stuff
-
04-09-2009, 12:30 PM #6
Half shaft!
CV axle!
James sometime if you can cut the band without cutting into the boot you can just push them off the the CV and fill the boot with grease but if you tear the boot you'll have to replace the boot.
-
04-09-2009, 01:13 PM #7
Senior Member
- Join Date
- Jan 2008
- Location
- VA
- Posts
- 298
Most drive wheel bearings used now are sealed with no grease or zerk fittings needed. Most 1/2 shafty stub axels are torqued to 300 to 350 foot pounds or so. Warm up the nut and hit it with a good impact. righty tighty lefty loosy. a breaker bar and a cheater pipe works too. leave the wheel on if you can and set the parking brake or have the wife stand on the brake to hold the wheel.
1/2 shafts have CV joints in them. An inner and outer race with 6 or so ball bearings. They last longer if you clean and repack them from time to time. Don't pack the joint and boot full. The weight of the grease when spun at highway speed will blow the boot out.Last edited by Vicegrip; 04-09-2009 at 01:16 PM.
Weekend wannab racer with some welders.
-
04-09-2009, 01:20 PM #8
Vicegrip..........I know we do not always click.....but you generally have very
good imput.........thanks..........................NickNick
Miller 252 Mig
Miller Cricket XL
Millermatic 150 Mig
Miller Syncrowave 200 Tig
2-O/A outfits
Jet Lathe and Mill
Jet 7x12 horz/vert band saw
DeWalt Multi Cutter metal saw
Century 50 Amp Plasma Cutter
20 ton electric/hydraulic vertical press
Propane Forge
60" X 60" router/plasma table
www.youtube.com/watch?v=jTu7wicVCmQ
Vist my site: www.nixstuff.com
and check out some of my ironwork and other stuff
-
04-09-2009, 02:05 PM #9
seems like i saw some replacement bands for the boots, so with a little luck i will be ale to get it off without any damage. I'll give it another try tomorrow, I'm shot for the day now.
but i did get some much needed shop cleaning done.
thanks for the help
......or..........
hope i helped
feel free to shoot me an e-mail direct i have time to chat.
james@newyorkmetalart.com
summer is here, plant a tree. if you don't have space or time to plant one sponsor some one else to plant one for you. a tree is an investment in our planet, help it out.
JAMES
-
04-09-2009, 05:04 PM #10
This is gona sound dumb!!!
Is there a "locking" device on the nut?
Some have a grove cut in the shaft and the thin lip is bent into the grove.
The worst one I did had to use a 3/4 breaker bar and LONG (4') cheater.
When it came loose, it almost put me on the ground, I aint small 6'4" 230 lbs.
Get your cheater just right and put a jack under the end and raise the jack, that worked for me in the past. Make sure someone is on the cars brake.Be safe
Jeff
Give more than you get and
you will get more than ya need.
This is true for the good and bad
that life puts out.



Reply With Quote







