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Thread: a beer can is??

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    DFW area
    Posts
    180

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by alha View Post
    . Is there an issue with this, or is the caution about standing water, in liquid form, not in the sand? Like I said, much reading to do before I start this.

    When molten metal- even Lead at 6-800 degrees, which melts much lower than the melting point of Alum. comes in contact with moisture in any form, at any temp below 212F, or in any amount: the water will expand about 1,700 times.

    It just leaps into the (vapor) form of steam.... explosively.

    I cast a few thousand bullets a year. I've had events where I'd toss one single wheel weight that was damp into a molten pot of Lead and when the few molecules of water expanded--- they blew several ounces of molten Lead out of the pot, and deposited it on the ceiling of the garage.

    If you're going to do any casting, pre-heat your material to at least 250-300, or bring the entire batch up to temp slowly before you dump it off into a pot with any molten metal.

    .
    "Gone are the days of wooden ships, and Iron men.
    I doubt we'll see either of their likes again".

    Circa 1920.
    Author:
    Unknown US Coast Guard unit Commander.

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Near Dallas, TX
    Posts
    214

    Default

    Also don't work on a concrete floor. If you drop any molten metal on the concrete it will typically explode out a small crater. A dry sandbox is probably best to work over.
    I'd advise against the beverage cans. The paint/aluminum ratio is too big. Check your local scrap yard for worn out air cooled engines.

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Posts
    307

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    Quote Originally Posted by Andy View Post
    Also don't work on a concrete floor. If you drop any molten metal on the concrete it will typically explode out a small crater. A dry sandbox is probably best to work over.
    I'd advise against the beverage cans. The paint/aluminum ratio is too big. Check your local scrap yard for worn out air cooled engines.
    Def would be pouring outside, in fact the whole shebang is going to be outside, in case of any shebangs...

    If I went with aluminum scrap, (when I run out of my can supply) which part of the engine would I be looking for? The block, head, intake? I would presume that they are made out of diff alloys, and nothing is going to be 'pure' Al, so which would you think would be the best part to look for, and would brand make a diff? Mercedes vs. Hyundai vs. Toyota? Thanks for the suggestions, that's why I love this board, so many people with so much good & valuable info.

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    San Diego CA
    Posts
    32

    Default Forging And Casting Work

    So You Whant To Play With Hot Stuff

    We Cast Alot Of Stuff And It Is Fun But Step Back And Think What Could Go Wrong And There Is A Lot The Can Get Ugly

    You First Have To Melt It And That Is Very Hot

    Then You Pore It Out Of That Red Hot Crusebl In To A Mold Just Do Not Drop It On The Ground Or Miss The Mold When Pooring

    The Fan That We Use To Get The Smoke Out Of Room We Have The Furness In Has Been Changed Three Times The Blads Get Coroded And Fall Apart So That Tells Me You Should Not Breath It

    We Wear A Lot Of Protecsion Whale Pooring

    Good Luck On Casting Parts And Be Very Carfull Do Your Home Work And Be Safe

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