any rod 6010 7018 etc,if used for any code quality work ,whether it be to cwb or tssa standards has to be kept in a rod oven and whatever rods you cant use within a 15 degree drop in temperature must be reconditioned( back in the rod oven they go)anything more than that and your asking for non compliance fines (proceedures
.other conditions are factors also (air temp metal preheat?humidity?etc
Results 21 to 29 of 29
Thread: uphill welding
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08-19-2007, 07:35 PM #21
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rod storage
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08-19-2007, 08:50 PM #22
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You see that a lot swamp donkey. 'Cause we have always done it that way, duhhhh. I've been at this almost 40 years. For just practicing, and for things that don't have to take heavy loads or lots of stress don't worry about it too much. If you can see white spots on it then it is junk, but it is still fine for artsy stuff, fences, and so on. All ASME construction codes (as far as I can tell they are exact copies of US Navy standards and procedures, I know they are for heated pressure vessels, aka boilers) require the storage of all rods in ovens. Most construction jobsites (powerplants, oilfield vessels, shipyards, etc) now have portable heated rod caddys. The last job I was on doing code work if you were caught with more than 5 rods out of the caddy your certs were pulled.
If your shop is code certified you must have the ovens, if it's not certified it doesn't. If not then certification must be completed in order to conduct code level work.
I cannot recall the exact code designation anymore, but I have tested G6 on pipe to boiler code (as tough as it gets except maybe nuke - never did any of that) with stale rods and passed destructive testing. Not kosher, but it can be done.Lincoln: Eagle 10,000, Weld-Pak HD, Weld-Pak 155, AC-225, LN-25 wirefeeder
Miller: Syncrowave 250DX Tigrunner
Westinghouse: 400+ amp AC
ThermalArc Handy wirefeeder
1 Harris, 3 Victor O/A rigs
Arcair gouger
Too many other power toys to list.
Do it right, do it once. And in all things ya get what ya pay for.
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08-19-2007, 09:23 PM #23
i herd 6013 were less a problem if left out ?? is this true?? if i was looking for a rod i could keep for a long time just in a tube would the 6013 be a better choice or is it about the same with them all??
thanksthanks for the help
......or..........
hope i helped
feel free to shoot me an e-mail direct i have time to chat.
james@newyorkmetalart.com
summer is here, plant a tree. if you don't have space or time to plant one sponsor some one else to plant one for you. a tree is an investment in our planet, help it out.
JAMES
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08-19-2007, 09:33 PM #24
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I may have to do a little research, but I thought I read where you should not store 6010 in a rod oven because it would make it to dry?
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08-19-2007, 09:51 PM #25
i'm just wondering how long my 6013 will last as i cant weld up with it so its kinda on hold.
thanks for the help
......or..........
hope i helped
feel free to shoot me an e-mail direct i have time to chat.
james@newyorkmetalart.com
summer is here, plant a tree. if you don't have space or time to plant one sponsor some one else to plant one for you. a tree is an investment in our planet, help it out.
JAMES
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08-20-2007, 11:33 AM #26
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6010 are celuslose coated and dont need to be in oven at all unless really really humid enviroment. The prolem is the low nigtorgen rods, ie: 7018. flux is made from lime and if nitrogen(found in air) gets into rod then it will contaminate the weld and it might not cause problems right aways but can actually cause rust to form inside the weld and crack over time.
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08-20-2007, 08:07 PM #27
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Humidity affects 6010 even faster than it does 7018. I have a book somewhere (in New Mexico I think, not here in New Orleans with me) that tells the exact procedures for using rod ovens with the different classes including reconditioning. what temp, how long in the heat before use, etc. The construction sites I have been on never passed out rod straight out of the box. The new rods always went in the ovens where they had to remain X amount of hours before they could be used. If I could afford the ovens for it that's where all of my rod would be stored.
Lincoln: Eagle 10,000, Weld-Pak HD, Weld-Pak 155, AC-225, LN-25 wirefeeder
Miller: Syncrowave 250DX Tigrunner
Westinghouse: 400+ amp AC
ThermalArc Handy wirefeeder
1 Harris, 3 Victor O/A rigs
Arcair gouger
Too many other power toys to list.
Do it right, do it once. And in all things ya get what ya pay for.
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08-20-2007, 08:17 PM #28
i was told a metal cooler and a reptile heat rock would be a good option. i don't know if you can still get a metal cooler but i can make that part with some steel and expanding foam insulation. add a pet rock and its good to go.
thanks for the help
......or..........
hope i helped
feel free to shoot me an e-mail direct i have time to chat.
james@newyorkmetalart.com
summer is here, plant a tree. if you don't have space or time to plant one sponsor some one else to plant one for you. a tree is an investment in our planet, help it out.
JAMES
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08-20-2007, 08:23 PM #29
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I did a little research.
This is a quote from the ASME site.
According to ASME Section II Part C-Specifications for Welding Rods, Electrodes and Filler Metals; A6.11 Electrode Covering Moisture Content and Conditioning: A611.4 Cellulose coverings for E6010 and E6011 electrodes need moisture levels of 3% to 7% for proper operation; therefore, storage or conditioning above ambient temperature may dry them too much and adversely affect their operation. Table A2 of Section II states that holding ovens are not recommended and drying conditions are also not recommended.


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