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Thread: uphill welding

  1. #1

    Default uphill welding

    hello everybody im new here just wanted to say hi first off, i have been recently practicing uphill welding and to no end cannot get a decent looking yet strong weld and was wondering if any of u can help,im just doing this for pratice so i know the method for when i start to build trailers, im praticing on 3/16 inch thick coupons by 4 inches .every time i do it , it seems to droop down and looks horrible, i was told to turn the heat down and did and still got the same results, is there some type of weaving method or wrist action im not doing, am i going to slow???? is it possible to make and uphill weld look like a fillet weld , using a mig welder with .035 wire with the mix, i can turn out other wleds no problem but the uphill is kickin my arse. i appriciate any advice or feedbak guys . thanks alot

  2. #2

    Default

    spend more time on the sides than the middle. weave side to side.
    Dewayne Sullivan
    Dixieland Welding
    Lewisburg, TN

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    near rochester NY
    Posts
    9,881

    Default

    welcome.
    i'm about to start trying stick in the up tomarow i think, wish me luck.
    thanks for the help
    ......or..........
    hope i helped

    feel free to shoot me an e-mail direct i have time to chat. james@newyorkmetalart.com
    summer is here, plant a tree. if you don't have space or time to plant one sponsor some one else to plant one for you. a tree is an investment in our planet, help it out.
    JAMES

  4. #4

    Default

    If you watch some one who is a good uphill welder you will find it a big
    help in learning the correct technique, welder setting is important. I have
    found a 7016 rod made it easier as they freeze quicker than say a 6013. I was using it with an engine driven DC welder.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    near rochester NY
    Posts
    9,881

    Default

    sorry i might have side tracked it a bit, he is using a MIG not stick. i just mentioned i was going to try stick up today.


    test save button
    Last edited by fun4now; 08-14-2007 at 05:29 PM. Reason: test save button
    thanks for the help
    ......or..........
    hope i helped

    feel free to shoot me an e-mail direct i have time to chat. james@newyorkmetalart.com
    summer is here, plant a tree. if you don't have space or time to plant one sponsor some one else to plant one for you. a tree is an investment in our planet, help it out.
    JAMES

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Alaska
    Posts
    732

    Default

    All the time is spent on the sides the center is a passing zone only no parking or stopping or slowing down in the center. Snap from the left to the right turn the voltage down about 30% from you best setting for a flat fillet.
    TJ______________________________________

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    now in Orlando!!!!
    Posts
    559

    Default

    Fat Fab, love your description of the no parking zone, I have found I can hear a change in the sound of the arc when the sides have had enough and it is time to move to the other side. Hope this helps, Paul
    More Spark Today Please

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    New Orleans, LA
    Posts
    161

    Default

    Same as with a stick, side to side and don't sit in the middle. Correct procedure when running uphill with sticks is to run overlapping stringer beads, with the stringers being no more than 1 and 1/2 times the width of the electrode. I.E 1/8th electrodes would have a bead width of no more than 7/16 inch. It isn't as pretty a weld, but the chance of inclusions is much lower.

    I don't use 7016 for anything always 7018. Lincoln Excalibur is the most forgiving I have used. If I can't get it I prefer Harris E7018. Stay away from Lincoln 7018AC if you are using a DC machine (the only place I have ever seen the stuff is home depot or lowes, but on dc it bugholes worse then anything I have ever used with any amount of breeze). The others don't care if it is ac or dc. I have had the best luck with these two. When you are learning use 3/32, and don't get in a hurry to move on. Stick with it until you have it down then move up to the next size.

    Just thought I would share since you are planning to start with sticks. Basically if you can run 7018 uphill properly you can do anything.
    Lincoln: Eagle 10,000, Weld-Pak HD, Weld-Pak 155, AC-225, LN-25 wirefeeder
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  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Winnipeg, MB CANADA
    Posts
    41

    Default

    Since we are on the topic of uphill welding and kinda got onto stick electrodes has anyone ever used ESAB's 7018, or OK55 as its called? I personally dont think its that great for what u pay i think $34/ 20# box. I find that it sticks alot more and doesnt flow as nice as the linoln or Blueshield 7018? i mean i could be full of crap but thats just what i think, and was wondering what other people think as well

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Posts
    16

    Default

    well above poster is right if u can master vertical up stick u should be able to learn any kinda welding.


    Now with the mig vertical up u need to set up ur machine to run low, not sure but some call it short circuit welding(some dont) set ur settings at 175 wire speed and around 17-18 volts. Not sure what ur welding but this should work good for mild steel around 3/8. If running hot or bead to big adjust wire speed first down or up. If that dont work then adjust volts either down if getting to hot to handle or up if it isnt. Doing this u need to pause in each side and let bite in and fill up then whip to other side and repeat. Make sure u go quick in middle and it will fill up by itself.

    other than that as with any kinda welding PRACTICE, practice and more PRACTICE will get u going

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