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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Posts
    16

    Default Shiney stainless TIG welds

    Hey all. I've done a lot of TIG welding in the past but I've always wondered how some of these guys get the shiney rainbow colored welds on stainless. My welds are usually grey and dull looking.

    I hear from talking to others that I'm welding too hot and basically cooking the welds too much. I've tried welding cooler and moving faster but I still can't get these kinds of results. Will back purging make welds like this? Anything else I can try?



  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    New Orleans, LA
    Posts
    161

    Default

    I always brushed mine to get rid of the discoloration, can't really tell you how I did it. It's been years since I've worked with stainless.
    Lincoln: Eagle 10,000, Weld-Pak HD, Weld-Pak 155, AC-225, LN-25 wirefeeder
    Miller: Syncrowave 250DX Tigrunner
    Westinghouse: 400+ amp AC
    ThermalArc Handy wirefeeder
    1 Harris, 3 Victor O/A rigs
    Arcair gouger
    Too many other power toys to list.

    Do it right, do it once. And in all things ya get what ya pay for.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Ventura, California
    Posts
    102

    Default That's art, a thing of beauty

    That is a NICE weld!

    My instructor welded a sample that looks just like that. I kept it and put it on my workbench as an inspiration. I'm not there yet, but I'm working on it.

    Stainless HATES heat, which is why it turns dark grey. But then how do you weld it? With harsh language? The trick with the heat is to get in and get out. Do this with the foot control. Try rocking it back and forth to keep the puddle fluid, yet not so much heat all the time. On many TIG rigs, you can set frequency and pulse adjustments to dial-in enough foreground heat to melt it, but back it off to a lower background heat to reduce the heat input, while keeping the puddle fluid. It is a balancing act. If you are running a TIG rig that lacks controls (or you lack familiarity with them) then the foot control will work.

    If I slam the foot control down and keep it there, I can weld stainless all day long. The welds will hold, but they look dark grey because I have baked the metal. In order to get to the nice golden color then it takes the finesse of "threading the needle" as my TIG instructor likes to say.

    Initially I tried giving very little heat, hoping to get to the golden color by just being super sloooowwwww. What happens is that the heat spreads over the entire area. By the time it is hot enough to melt and form a puddle, whole area of the stainless is fried. Remember that stainless HATES heat. The solution, intense heat on a localized area, form the puddle, dip the rod, back off the heat, move, repeat. Once you get a rhythm down, you will see the difference.

    The thickness of the metal will matter too. Try 1/8" coupons. I tried to start with material thinner than 1/8" (because it was cheaper), but with frustrating results. The 1/8" is thick enought to be more forgiving because there is more metal to absorb the heat. If I'm welding 20 gauge sheet and put too much heat, I'm done. At a minimum I have a black bead, and worst case have punched a hole right through. Don't try the thinner stuff until you have a rhythm down. The 1/8" will build your confidence.

    Initially try no rod, just run beads on a sheet of 1/8". Get the beads the color you like, then try adding some rod. Post some pictures of your progress. Make notes on the metal as to what the setting were when you were running the bead. Eventually you will find a combination that works.

    Stick the tip of the electrode right near the puddle. No "long arcing" (tip is greater than 1/4" from the puddle) allowed. It takes too much heat to get a puddle started. (I know, again with the heat...) I crash (dip) the tip in the puddle more often than I like during this part of the learning curve, but the alternative is to be long arcing and never crash the tip, with black beads to show for it. Use as small a diameter tungsten as you can get away with. Smaller arc = less heat. 1/16th tungsten will weld 1/8" stainless just fine.

    I'm no expert by any means, but this is what has worked for me so far. TIG is like performing surgery, very precise and pays well. When it comes to cosmetics in stainless, it is hard to beat a TIG weld. (Unless of course you are talking about one of MY TIG welds, but I'm getting there.)

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Northern CA
    Posts
    90

    Default

    What's up with the edge of that weld? It looks like that tube will snap right off the flange and take the weld bead with it!

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Camden, SC
    Posts
    156

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by dabeldesign View Post
    What's up with the edge of that weld? It looks like that tube will snap right off the flange and take the weld bead with it!
    I agree with you, but since it looks like it's a header-tube, it's probably not going to be under much stress, right? Probably just has to put up with a lot of vibration and a ton of heat, unless I miss my guess....?

    Also, I'm wondering if some of the discoloration isn't coming from two different base-metals...? That bracket appears to be forged or stamped and the pipe is very obviously SS.....could the bracket have a higher Nickel (Ni) percentage than the pipe? I've seen "rainbow" colors when welding Iconel and 316 flanges, but never with 308 or 309 pipe.

    I wish Aeroweld would chime in....his welds look like this all of the time...(at least, whenever he wants them to, that is...)

    Clint Baxley
    Baxley Welding Service
    Rembert, SC 29128

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Posts
    16

    Default

    Thanks for the tips guys. I've tried rocking the pedal before to get in and out without heating it up too much but maybe I need to get out of it even more. I've welded enough stainless and tried enough techniques but they all seem to turn out grey and cruddy looking to me. They hold great, but they look like poo until I take a wire wheel to them...but that isn't what I'm going for. I'm looking for this nice golden weld without any grinding or polishing.

    The main thing I weld is exhaust piping and turbo manifolds like in the picture above. The turbo manifolds are thicker walled tubing so that's what I'm really trying for.

    Eventually I want to be this good...but I hear that Full Race has a robotic welder so I think most of these are done with that:


  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Midland, Mi.
    Posts
    313

    Default

    A perfect weld on stainless will have no discoloration. The colors are a result of oxygen contamination from a lack of shielding gas coverage.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Camden, SC
    Posts
    156

    Question

    Quote Originally Posted by TS-Off-Road View Post
    A perfect weld on stainless will have no discoloration. The colors are a result of oxygen contamination from a lack of shielding gas coverage.
    I've heard this too....I wonder if different blends of shielding gas could result in discoloration? (ie: 98Ar/02He)?

    Clint Baxley
    Baxley Welding Service
    Rembert, SC 29128

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Upland, CA
    Posts
    45

    Default

    Here are some pics of some SS work that I've done.

    It's not "perfect" but it's always done the job. Getting the combination of heat and shielding gas just right helps in the quality of any weld.

    - Paul


    SSWeld1.jpg

    SSWeld2.jpg

    DS650MidPipe6.JPG

    DS650MidPipe8.JPG

    DS650MidPipe10.JPG
    The only stupid question is the one that never got asked.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Camden, SC
    Posts
    156

    Default

    Paul,
    When you get a second, can you describe your equipment, shielding gas, filler rod, base material, etc etc etc.....? Those are GORGEOUS welds!!!
    ~Clint

    Clint Baxley
    Baxley Welding Service
    Rembert, SC 29128

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