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Thread: Pontoon Boats

  1. #21
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    Clint,

    I think I'd rather drill a hole and put an alum screw/bolt/rivet in 1/8" aluminum rather than trying to stick weld it.

    Tig is great for aluminum boats but it's so slow, compared to other techniques available today. I think if I was really serious about that type of repair (on a constant basis), I'd be looking at a MM350P with spoolgun. Haven't used one, but know several who have. Claim it's the "cat's meow" when it comes to thin gauge aluminum. Nearly as good as tig, but much, much more productive (read faster).

    You may also want to check out Miller's 3545 Spoolmate. Similar to the 3035, but with a highter duty cycle. Only thing is it won't run .023 wire, but that shouldn't be much of a concern with aluminum anyway. Would also recommend the 25' extension kit. I know I like the 30' reach of the 30A. Keeps me from constantly having to move a 200#+ machine around.

    P.S. You'll have to come up and teach me how to do aluminum SMAW with a stick. About the only thing I'm good at in that area is blowing "drain holes" in the material.

  2. #22
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    near rochester NY
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    i'm really siked about the idea of a MM212 and spool gun setup. its a ways off but really seams to get great reviews no matter what its used on/for. would be a great addition to my little shop. i recently got a TA-185 TIG to learn TIG and stick to cover the thick stuff i cant do with my MM135. TIG came easy after my O/A background but stick is still driving me nuts ?? i suppose its just a question of needing more practice, but i really need some one to show me the right way to do it and then continue with practicing when i know what i should be doing.
    i think i'm doing ok with flat but up is killing me. i also don't have much of anything good for working with so i'm using some very rusty 5/32" diamond plate cleaned up best as i can. not trying to use rust as an excuse mind you just giving an idea of what i have to work with.
    i added a few pic of some 6013 rod (its all i have) first is the best of 3 trys going up a 7" piece of the 5/32". the first 2 trys were so bad i was afraid i would break the camera so i didn't risk a pic.
    this is still my first 5lbs box of stick rods and the only 3 trys at up, so don't be too ruff on me.
    fist pic is my up weld
    2nd pic is it cleaned up before i went over it on the flat to make it look better/
    3rd is the flat over pass
    4th is the thing painted. i went to a flat overpass as i want to keep it as a dinner bell so to speak so i wanted a better looking weld left to be seen for every one passing.
    i don't want to hijack this thread just wanted to show what i did and ask you to look for my stick try post to give me some pointers as it seems we have some real stick welders here. and i do neeeeed the help.
    thanks
    Attached Images Attached Images
    thanks for the help
    ......or..........
    hope i helped

    feel free to shoot me an e-mail direct i have time to chat. james@newyorkmetalart.com
    summer is here, plant a tree. if you don't have space or time to plant one sponsor some one else to plant one for you. a tree is an investment in our planet, help it out.
    JAMES

  3. #23
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    Sorry,

    I must have missed something here. I thought this thread was about welding on aluminum pontoon boats and the different techniques/processes available. The pros and cons of different techniques and what has/has not worked well for the respective poster.

    How the HE11 did we get off on a discussion about stick welding steel up?

    James, not to be rude, but this same information (to include photos) was posted in another thread (started by you).

    You don't have to post to every thread. We know you're a very prolific poster who has something to say about everything. Sometimes it just gets a little tiresome to have to sift through all the BS.

    I'm just going to go bang my head on the wall for awhile now.

  4. #24
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    not to be rude,
    the post had turned to talk about stick and i had just made an attempt at stick. i don't see the problem, perhaps you should put me on your ignore list if i bother you so much.
    thanks for the help
    ......or..........
    hope i helped

    feel free to shoot me an e-mail direct i have time to chat. james@newyorkmetalart.com
    summer is here, plant a tree. if you don't have space or time to plant one sponsor some one else to plant one for you. a tree is an investment in our planet, help it out.
    JAMES

  5. #25
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    New Orleans, LA
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    Wow, I thought I put that in there about having to run really fast with AL SMAW. I can think a lot faster than I can type and occasionally leave things out because I thought I put them in. I was using 7018 as a way of illustrating the amperage needed to run the AL sticks because most try to run way too cold when they first start trying to use AL sticks. I cheated and called Dad about them, that's the example he used, and it is very close. I don't really like them, but I have had excellent luck with them on heavier stuff (I.E 3/8 and 1/2 or more). I try not to even use them down here because they go bad so fast in this humidity. I watch steel rust while I am welding it some days.

    You are right on the O/A welding of aluminum. The only other welder I know who can do it is in New Mexico and retired. He taught me how. He also taught me to run stringers in pipe and weld it out with O/A, but I couldn't do it now if I had to. Back in the '60's and early 70's it was all that was allowed on 2" and under pipe out there. I had to learn it all with a torch before I was allowed to start with the arc. He said you had to be good with a torch if you were going to be a welder, LOL. He even made me learn to run it left handed and backhanded. Made me learn to weld left handed as well.
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  6. #26
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Camden, SC
    Posts
    156

    Thumbs up

    I wish I'd had your dad to teach me! I'm not even going to "go there" to tell you how bad I suck at O/A! I know what you mean about the humidity and AL rods....SC isn't much better than LA when it comes to humidity levels.

    James, I think SundownIII's just trying to keep us all on-track and on-topic. It isn't a matter of one person disliking another, just a gentle reminder for all of us to stay with the originial topic. One of the main reasons I left the Hobart board was because there were so many people that liked to post that they'd just jump in the middle of a conversation and start taking it off in new directions. Then, later on down the road, someone comes along (like I did) who searches threads to find a particular topic such as "AL SMAW" and they scan through the posts looking for a paperclip to see some pictures, and all of a sudden they're looking at 6013 welds (kewl pics, btw!) and getting confused. I could be wrong, but I've had similar thoughts repeatedly about the Hobart board....one of the reasons I quit.

    SundownIII,
    I'd love the 350MP if my budget allowed it. I also wouldn't mind the 15A or 30A spool guns....same issue...$$$. In truth, I've only had two repair jobs on pontoons this summer where I really really wish I'd had a spool gun. I've got three projects underway now that I'm using to justify the expense of a spoolgun and new welder for...TIG'ing is just too slow (for high production numbers). Incidentally, 2 of my current 3 jobs are 1/16" so no SMAW there. SG sure would be nice, I'm thinking.
    Last edited by BWS29128; 08-15-2007 at 06:43 AM. Reason: 2 misspelled words

    Clint Baxley
    Baxley Welding Service
    Rembert, SC 29128

  7. #27
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    Mar 2007
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    Deltaville, VA
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    Hey Clint,

    Know all about budgets.

    You may want to look at the new Hobart HH210. Never used one but the reports coming in are very good. Also comes spoolgun ready. Uses the Hobart version of the 3035 if I read the specs correctly. Base unit can be had for less than $1,000.

    Going back to the thread regarding welding aluminum, I was reading an interesting article the other night. Author recommended gas welding aluminum using hydrogen in lieu of acetylene. Basically the same equipment required as O/A except uses a tip three sizes larger. Produces a flame in the 4000 Degree range which is closer to the melting point of aluminum than O/A. Recommends a blue lens vs the green lens to better see the puddle. Interesting reading. I may talk to my LWS and see about getting a bottle of hydrogen and trying it.

    Were you serious about taking the show on the road? How does the family feel about that? A friend of mine runs a pretty large fabrication shop here locally and has a couple of shutdown's already booked. Most of what they do though, is cold steel and SS. They don't do much aluminum.

    Gotta run,

    Later

  8. #28
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    wisconsin
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    836

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    Quote Originally Posted by SundownIII View Post
    Hey Clint,

    Know all about budgets.


    Going back to the thread regarding welding aluminum, I was reading an interesting article the other night. Author recommended gas welding aluminum using hydrogen in lieu of acetylene. Basically the same equipment required as O/A except uses a tip three sizes larger. Produces a flame in the 4000 Degree range which is closer to the melting point of aluminum than O/A. Recommends a blue lens vs the green lens to better see the puddle. Interesting reading. I may talk to my LWS and see about getting a bottle of hydrogen and trying it.


    Gotta run,

    Later

    Both fuels work just fine for Al. Hydrogen while cooler is more difficult to set the correct flame. For one there are only 2 envelopes of combustion and you simply have a hard time even seeing the flame so it becomes a little more technical. I use both daily. The lens is not for the fuel its actually to block the sodium orange flare given off from the welding flux. In the past Cobalt melters glasses were used, but they dont block the UV and dont have much of a shade to them. Didymium Glass blowers glasses also were used but are not the safest. Today there is a glass lens called the TM2000 and the guys at Cobra have a cheap plastic set. By far the TM2000 is superior but costly ( $105). Either one of these will work fine for you. Grab a good flux and away you go. Funny thing though, once you get into it, welding on AL sheet like pontoons with a torch will be probably one of the fastest minus the time spent cleaning up flux after.

    -Aaron
    "Better Metalworking Through Research"

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  9. #29
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    Aug 2007
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    arkansas
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    i weld aluminum for a living, not on boats, but specialty signs. the mig process for aluminum has a very good cleaning if you have a machine that can handle it. i use an xmt 304 with an xra push-pull feeder with a 30 foot xr edge gun. for 0.63 i set the volts to 22.5 and the wire speed to 600 but youll have to move very fast. on 1/4 i set the volts to 26 and 800 ipm. when you set a high voltage you'll see the arc "burn" the oxide away from the weld. the high ipm is to fill in the gap you just created. i use 0.35 5356 alloy for most jobs. occasionaly i will get asked to use a 4043. with the 4043 you'll have to turn it down a little b/c the puddle is so much more fluid. most of the things that i make are not post heat treated therefore the 5356 alloy. aws first pick is 4043, if you are going in for x-ray test, use it... for repairs on a boat, mig with a 5356 alloy, a brand new stainless brush should be used immediately prior to welding. m.e.k. or acetone works extremely well on removing old "water stains". but when the al starts to "white rust" you'll have to remove it mechanically, just dont use a grinder, the grinder will actually smear the face of the parent metal on put oxides into the parent metal, and most welds from that point are going to be inferior. clean it, brush it, weld it. aluminum also likes to be welded downhill. about 10 to 15 degrees push angle and 3/8 or less stickout. i am cert. unlimited fillet 5g nuclear.
    Last edited by welder_one; 08-15-2007 at 06:39 PM.
    welder_one

    nothing fancy, just a few hot glue guns for metal
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  10. #30
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    i use a 3.5" SS cup brush for my aluminum, but not in the grinder just by hand. the cup brush has a good concentration of bristles and works really well.
    thanks for the help
    ......or..........
    hope i helped

    feel free to shoot me an e-mail direct i have time to chat. james@newyorkmetalart.com
    summer is here, plant a tree. if you don't have space or time to plant one sponsor some one else to plant one for you. a tree is an investment in our planet, help it out.
    JAMES

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