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  1. #1

    Default Rehabbing a gooseneck Car hauler. Trailer Gods....

    Ok I just did some horse trading to get this trailer. All the sides and expanded steel and gate is coming off. I am gusseting the neck and adding a 2' dovetail. I am running new 5 inch Channel the length of the trailer. Currently the gooseneck hits the 5 inch channel and runs to the front of the axles. There is a piece of 2x3 angle running the length. Not quite strong enough for me. So I pull the wood and run the channel next to the angle? When I add crossmembers should I use 3" channel, 2x3 angle, 2x2x.120 tubing or something else? Should I move the axles back if I am adding the dovetail? The trailer has 2 3500lb axles with brakes on both. I plan on towing new cars and trucks, but occasionally my Buddy's cummins whenever it breaks down. I am pulling the wood now as I wait for my plasma consumables to come from hong kong in the mail.

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  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Lodi, CA


    If you could, repost the words, without the pictures. Your pics are so big, expands everything to the point the miller ads, cut into the words, make them meaningless,,,, I can't read what you wrote.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Milan Michigan


    I couldnt read your post either.

    The axles are 3500 Lb axles total load 7000# including the weight of the trailer, Figure tonge weight at 1000# means your load capacity is approx. 5,500- 6,000 lbs probably closer to the 5500.

    The rear half only has an angle support so the side angle that sticks up approx. 12" is where your strength is.

    To make it a heavier duty trailer you will need to cut the spring perches off add a channel and then mount the springs to the new channel so it will sit higher and yes move the fenders & axles back a little if your adding 2' onto the trailer and then with all that you might want to add 6000lb axles & springs rims I tires for the bigger load.

    All that gets expensive so you might want to sell that one and buy a bigger one which will be alot cheaper

  6. #6


    I removed the deck. Which was a pain. Ended up cutting the three crossmembers it was screwed to out. Gonna post some more pictures with the wood and three crossmembers out. Then I gonna read what you guys wrote and go from there.

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  8. #8


    Do you guys follow what I am saying with adding the channel. Put in "inside" the angle that runs the length of the trailer. Add my cross members to that, and then add my wood back on. If would be a lot easier than removing the axles and putting it under the angle and/or replacing the angle with it. If I put it "inside" the angle if would give me a little more strength then replacing the angle.

    As far as weights go, shouldn't it be 7000lb of axles weight plus tongue weight (say a 1000lb) minus trailer weight (say 1500lbs) equal load allowance. Meaning

    7000# (2-3500# axles rating)
    +1000# Tongue weight
    -1500# Trailer weight
    6500lb cargo weight on trailer

  9. #9


    And if I pull the cummins home again, it weighs in at 7100#. But since that truck weight is in the motor, I would be exceeding the rating of the trailer yes, but most of the weight would be added to the tongue weight. Am I correct in this logic? Not trying to argue, just trying to learn.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jul 2006


    If Iím not mistaken, donít gooseneck trailers put up to 20% of the load on the truck?

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