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  1. #11


    Quote Originally Posted by WyoRoy View Post
    Last time I checked, and it has been a couple of years, receiver tube was selling in the $4-6 a foot range down at the steel yard. Cut the offending piece off and weld a new one on, IF you are satisfied with your welding abilities. You'll need to thru-drill for your pin.

    EDIT: Be honest with yourself about your ability to do this safely.
    Yeah I'm not 100% about my welding to say I would be doing it safely. I'm also not certain my machine will do steel that thick and get full penetration. My next door neighbor is a welder by trade so I could get him to do it, or at least look over my shoulder. I would like to learn to weld good enough to have that sort of confidence, but I realize the learning curve for that is very steep.

    Quote Originally Posted by MAC702 View Post
    We're sure a previous owner didn't weld it on somewhere as an anti-theft?
    100% sure. I bought it from a friend, who claims it's been stuck for "a while"

    I guess I'll just keep at it. I may end up cutting the back off with the portaband. At the very least, that will let me get some pb blaster on the other end
    Millermatic 180 Auto Set

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    North of Phila. PA


    The ones in our work trucks get stuck from time to time. Chain and a good sized tree works for us. If you are worried about the tree a heavy tow strap works well also. We have a nylon lifting strap we use to wrap the tree with and then use the chain. You don't leave a ton of slack in the chain then jump on the hammer. Easy forward until you feel resistance and then apply solid pressure. If that doesn't work a small jerk or 2 might get it to move.

    Also backing into a solid surface like a concrete loading dock may free it up. Concrete not block. Again use common sense. Don't floor it and slam into the wall in reverse. Back up and give it a solid thump or 2 then see if it will pull out. Use some force but don't hurt yourself. Most 2" hitches are designed to pull / push up to 10K+ so you can go ahead and use some of that force to free it up with out hurting too much.

  3. #13


    Quote Originally Posted by DSW View Post
    Also backing into a solid surface like a concrete loading dock may free it up. Concrete not block.
    now that is a good idea! just gotta find somewhere to do that at. theres got to be a parking garage I could "accidentally" bump while backing into a space.
    Millermatic 180 Auto Set

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Milan Michigan


    The chain and tree might work depending how rusted it is in there.

    Ive done this a few times over the years, I block the truck wheels all 4 hook a comalong to the back of my hilo and also block hilo wheels, apply pressure ( Tension ) heat with a big rose bud torch, quench it with a water hose which shrinks itheat again and repeat, beat it with a hammer in between heat and that helps break the rust away,

    I actually hit the tube where the rust is.
    Then warm the tube one last time and hit with sledge hammer to get it out.

    Thats how you get the really stubborn ones out.

    Unfortunately it doesnt sound like you have the proper equipment so you might want to try your local welding shop.

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Mar 2008


    I had this happen on a friend motorhome a few years ago. We tried everything including a 30,000 pound "snatch'em strap" tied to a tree and we couldn't remove it. We finally removed the whole hitch, cut a slot in the outside tube and used a hydraulic press to force the hitch out of the receiver.

    We then rewelded the slot and reinstalled the hitch.

    Nothing was bent, just lots of rust from not being removed for years.
    Dartmouth, MA

    Millermatic 185 MIG
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  6. #16
    Join Date
    Jan 2008


    I seem to get asked to help with issue more than I deserve. Being around less than handy weekend racers with tow rigs does not help. I use a web strap around a tree or other imovable object to pull hard and then set the brake. Not a chain, webbing, so there is some strech and spring load. Heat and beat side to side with BFH while under tension to remove. Heat the outside good and hot but not the glow point and spray water through the pin hole to cool the inside and shock it. I had one pop out at me when I shot some cold water in. The owner was suprised as he had been fighting with it for a while and had a pile of busted tools to show for it.
    Weekend wannab racer with some welders.

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Western NY State

    Default Trailer Hitch Problems

    This is an interesting thread. I have kind of a different problem since I usually remove the hitch from the receiver. This promotes rust inside the receiver and since I don't do much towing in the winter it seems like every spring I am out there with chisels, files, die grinders trying to clean out the rust. The front end of the receiver is closed making it hard to get at the inside. Does anyone have suggestions for methods of cleaning the receiver.

  8. #18


    Quote Originally Posted by billybee60 View Post
    Does anyone have suggestions for methods of cleaning the receiver.
    Just leave the hitch in it. Oh wait, nevermind.

    I would try and just load it up good with some sort of grease once you have it clean. that will at least keep it mostly rust free and easy to get dirt out with a hose or air gun.
    Millermatic 180 Auto Set

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    SW Ohio


    I had the same problem with a used truck that I bought. Since the back is boxed in, cut, burn or drill a hole in the end, weld a large fine-thread nut on the back . . . 1/2 to 3/4 . . . and use a bolt as a jackscrew.


  10. #20
    Join Date
    Oct 2006

    Thumbs up

    hi, if you decide to use the tree and chain removal operation I would suggest having a plain car or truck tire no rim and chain from tire to truck and tire to tree. This is something a old farmer told me to do. It really works great and saves the jerking and trans plus gives you that extra stretching

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