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  1. #1

    Default trailer hitch question

    A little off topic but it leads to some welding I'd like to do.

    I recently bought a pickup truck. One of the things I'd like to do is build a cradle that slides into the trailer hitch receiver, and supports the end of my kayak that hangs over the tailgate (welding project). I just want it to take it the mile or so in my neighborhood to the water. problem is that I can not for the life of me get the hitch pulled out of the receiver. I have tried soaking it with PB blaster, beating it with a BFH, and putting lots of heat onto it. No luck. and yes, the pin is out

    I thought about a big chain and a stationary object, but the chain is likely to cost nearly what the truck did, and I'm unsure of a suitable stationary object. I don't want to damage the one nice big tree in my yard. I'm also concerned that when/if it comes free, it will be a missile in the other direction. I don't live way out in the country and so safety is an issue.

    Anybody have any advice?
    Millermatic 180 Auto Set

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Lancaster, Pa
    Posts
    431

    Default

    If you put that much effort into it, it tells me that something is bent somewhere or the back end of the hitch got flared out somehow. Did you check that ?

    Try taking a piece of 2" square stock with the one end welded shut and going in from the back if you can to drive it out that way. You may have to do the chain thing if that doesn't work. At least if you buy a chain, you'll have it for a long time for other uses.
    Ken

    What else is there besides welding and riding. Besides that

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    2009 FXDC

  3. #3

    Default

    the back of the receiver is boxed shut. I already thought about trying to drive it through. I am getting tempted to cut the plate off of it, drive it through and then weld it back, but I'm not sure how that effects the integrity of it though.
    Millermatic 180 Auto Set

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    WY...armpit of U.S.A.
    Posts
    659

    Default

    Mix up some hyd. oil and brake fluid and apply that to the hitch and receiver. Give it a couple of applications and see if that doesn't free things up. If not, it sounds like you have a bent receiver or hitch and it may be best to cut it off and go with another or its so bloody rusted it wouldn't be a bad idea to replace anyway for structural reasons..
    Miller 251...sold the spoolgun to DiverBill.
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  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Lancaster, Pa
    Posts
    431

    Default

    Not sure how much room you have but can you drill a hole in the back and get a nice piece of rod in there to help drive it out ?

    Im not expert on receivers but if you do cut it off, I would use a sawzall or a wheel, definately not a torch, otherwise you'll weaken the whole receiver.

    Just weld it back on then with a good weld, weld that like you would something else so you dont get it too hot or cause it to twist or warp, you should be ok.
    Ken

    What else is there besides welding and riding. Besides that

    Miller Thunderbolt XL 300/200 AC/DC
    Hobart Handler 187
    Dewalt Chop Saw
    4" Air Grinder
    Die Grinder
    Rigid Drill Press
    Kellogg 10hp Air Compressor


    2009 FXDC

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    WY...armpit of U.S.A.
    Posts
    659

    Default

    Last time I checked, and it has been a couple of years, receiver tube was selling in the $4-6 a foot range down at the steel yard. Cut the offending piece off and weld a new one on, IF you are satisfied with your welding abilities. You'll need to thru-drill for your pin.

    EDIT: Be honest with yourself about your ability to do this safely.
    Last edited by WyoRoy; 02-18-2009 at 04:05 PM.
    Miller 251...sold the spoolgun to DiverBill.
    Miller DialArc 250
    Lincoln PrecisionTig 275
    Hypertherm 900 plasma cutter
    Bridgeport "J" head mill...tooled up
    Jet 14 X 40 lathe...ditto
    South Bend 9" lathe...yeah, got the change gears too
    Logan 7" shaper
    Ellis 3000 band saw
    Hossfeld bender w/shopbuilt hyd.
    Victor Journeyman torch and gauges
    3 Gerstner boxes of mostly Starrett tools
    Lots of dust bunnies
    Too small of a shop at 40 X 59.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Location
    Clark County, NV
    Posts
    2,696

    Default

    We're sure a previous owner didn't weld it on somewhere as an anti-theft?

    If nothing works, I'd take the back off and try the drive-thru. I don't even see a need to replace the back end. Many don't have them anyway.

  8. #8

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by WyoRoy View Post
    Last time I checked, and it has been a couple of years, receiver tube was selling in the $4-6 a foot range down at the steel yard. Cut the offending piece off and weld a new one on, IF you are satisfied with your welding abilities. You'll need to thru-drill for your pin.

    EDIT: Be honest with yourself about your ability to do this safely.
    Yeah I'm not 100% about my welding to say I would be doing it safely. I'm also not certain my machine will do steel that thick and get full penetration. My next door neighbor is a welder by trade so I could get him to do it, or at least look over my shoulder. I would like to learn to weld good enough to have that sort of confidence, but I realize the learning curve for that is very steep.

    Quote Originally Posted by MAC702 View Post
    We're sure a previous owner didn't weld it on somewhere as an anti-theft?
    100% sure. I bought it from a friend, who claims it's been stuck for "a while"


    I guess I'll just keep at it. I may end up cutting the back off with the portaband. At the very least, that will let me get some pb blaster on the other end
    Millermatic 180 Auto Set

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