I am currently in the process of rebuilding a horizontal/vertical metal band saw. I got it for free several years ago, and am just finaly getting around to cleaning it up. I just put all new bearings on it, and made the first cut. It was cutting great and then it sort of jumped and started cutting very slow and crooked. When I shut it off and looked at it, there are a coouple very large stretches where the teeth are broke off. It is sort of odd, they are not worn off, they are clearly broken off.
So, I need to get a new blade. What would be the best type/tooth count to get? It will mostly be cutting tubing and flat stock, up to 1/2". I will be using it for aluminum down the road, but that is a ways off still.
Thanks for any suggestions.
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Thread: Band saw blades?
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02-09-2009, 11:16 PM #1
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Band saw blades?
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02-10-2009, 05:15 AM #2
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I'm thinking that I have a 10/14 on my saw that I use for everything thicker than 16g.
If you were doing production runs you would probably want to take the time to change to the optimum blade for whatever you were cutting.
Others will chime in.
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02-10-2009, 06:34 AM #3
http://www.countrysaw.com/ has any blade you could ever need...Bob
Bob Wright, Grandson of Tee Nee Boat Trailer Founder
Metal Master Fab Salem, Oh 44460
Birthplace of the Silver & Deming Drill
1999 MM185 w/185 Spoolgun,1986 Thunderbolt AC/DC
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02-10-2009, 06:47 AM #4
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Band Saw Blades
That's what I'd suggest, 10/14 tooth blade. If you have a 64 1/2" (common) you can get standard blades at Home Depot for around $10. A higher quality "bi-metal" blade goes for around $25 each. I've had the teeth break off of new blades too. I bought my old "PowerCraft" 64 1/2" saw from my neighbor for $25 last year! You can get a belt for the motor at NAPA, check the lube in the gear box, use a good hypoid lube, not grease. Mine doesn't cut perfect, but it suffices until I get a new one. When we all get our "stimulus package" I'll buy a new JET.
(LOL)
Dave"Bonne journe'e mes amis"
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02-10-2009, 07:20 AM #5
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grizzly and enco have a lot
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02-10-2009, 11:57 AM #6
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Thanks. I think I will run down to Harbor freight and see what they have.
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02-10-2009, 12:53 PM #7
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Miller 251...sold the spoolgun to DiverBill.
Miller DialArc 250
Lincoln PrecisionTig 275
Hypertherm 900 plasma cutter
Bridgeport "J" head mill...tooled up
Jet 14 X 40 lathe...ditto
South Bend 9" lathe...yeah, got the change gears too
Logan 7" shaper
Ellis 3000 band saw
Hossfeld bender w/shopbuilt hyd.
Victor Journeyman torch and gauges
3 Gerstner boxes of mostly Starrett tools
Lots of dust bunnies
Too small of a shop at 40 X 59.
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02-10-2009, 08:05 PM #8
I vote bi-metal. I use Lennox from my LWS
Miller Dynasty 700...OH YEA BABY!!
MM 350P...PULSE SPRAYIN' MONSTER
Miller Dynasty 200 DX "Blue Lightning"
Miller Bobcat 225 NT
Miller 30-A Spoolgun
Miller WC-115-A
Miller Spectrum 300
Miller Spoolmate 200
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SPEEDGLAS 9100XX
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02-11-2009, 05:19 AM #9
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Take it for what it's worth -
I have a belt drive Enco (same as HF) 7x12.
If I want to cut say a 10"x1/4" piece and stand it up in the saw I know it won't be square, just the nature of the machine, cheap.
If I lay it down I know that the cut will load with chips and wreck the blade.
I keep my belt a little loose so that if the blade locks up the motor pulley
will spin inside the belt. It makes a horrible screeching sound but at least I
haven't ruined a $25. blade.
Also pays to keep an eye on a long cut like this and lift the blade occasionally
and clear the chips.
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02-12-2009, 11:56 AM #10
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The blade loads with chips even with cutting fluid?
Do you have any other comments about this saw. I was planning on purchasing it as I thought it would be a better choice than the 4x6 that HF sells but if the quality is the same maybe I am better off just getting a small but high quality machine.
ThanksLast edited by dudical26; 02-12-2009 at 12:41 PM.


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