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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Pacific NW
    Posts
    98

    Default Band saw blades?

    I am currently in the process of rebuilding a horizontal/vertical metal band saw. I got it for free several years ago, and am just finaly getting around to cleaning it up. I just put all new bearings on it, and made the first cut. It was cutting great and then it sort of jumped and started cutting very slow and crooked. When I shut it off and looked at it, there are a coouple very large stretches where the teeth are broke off. It is sort of odd, they are not worn off, they are clearly broken off.

    So, I need to get a new blade. What would be the best type/tooth count to get? It will mostly be cutting tubing and flat stock, up to 1/2". I will be using it for aluminum down the road, but that is a ways off still.

    Thanks for any suggestions.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    130

    Default

    I'm thinking that I have a 10/14 on my saw that I use for everything thicker than 16g.

    If you were doing production runs you would probably want to take the time to change to the optimum blade for whatever you were cutting.

    Others will chime in.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Salem ,Ohio
    Posts
    3,913

    Cool

    http://www.countrysaw.com/ has any blade you could ever need...Bob
    Bob Wright, Grandson of Tee Nee Boat Trailer Founder
    Metal Master Fab Salem, Oh 44460
    Birthplace of the Silver & Deming Drill
    1999 MM185 w/185 Spoolgun,1986 Thunderbolt AC/DC
    Spool Gun conversion. How To Do It. Below.
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  4. #4
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Posts
    2,949

    Wink Band Saw Blades

    That's what I'd suggest, 10/14 tooth blade. If you have a 64 1/2" (common) you can get standard blades at Home Depot for around $10. A higher quality "bi-metal" blade goes for around $25 each. I've had the teeth break off of new blades too. I bought my old "PowerCraft" 64 1/2" saw from my neighbor for $25 last year! You can get a belt for the motor at NAPA, check the lube in the gear box, use a good hypoid lube, not grease. Mine doesn't cut perfect, but it suffices until I get a new one. When we all get our "stimulus package" I'll buy a new JET. (LOL)

    Dave
    "Bonne journe'e mes amis"

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Posts
    171

    Default

    grizzly and enco have a lot

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Pacific NW
    Posts
    98

    Default

    Thanks. I think I will run down to Harbor freight and see what they have.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    WY...armpit of U.S.A.
    Posts
    659

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Scarsman View Post
    Thanks. I think I will run down to Harbor freight and see what they have.
    Do yourself a favor and source your blades from some other dealer. If you go with Harbor Freight don't expect much and you won't be too disappointed.
    Miller 251...sold the spoolgun to DiverBill.
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    Too small of a shop at 40 X 59.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Lake of the Ozarks MO
    Posts
    3,587

    Default

    I vote bi-metal. I use Lennox from my LWS

    www.facebook.com/outbackaluminumwelding
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  9. #9
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    130

    Default

    Take it for what it's worth -

    I have a belt drive Enco (same as HF) 7x12.

    If I want to cut say a 10"x1/4" piece and stand it up in the saw I know it won't be square, just the nature of the machine, cheap.

    If I lay it down I know that the cut will load with chips and wreck the blade.

    I keep my belt a little loose so that if the blade locks up the motor pulley
    will spin inside the belt. It makes a horrible screeching sound but at least I
    haven't ruined a $25. blade.

    Also pays to keep an eye on a long cut like this and lift the blade occasionally
    and clear the chips.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Posts
    25

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Chuck U&R View Post
    Take it for what it's worth -

    I have a belt drive Enco (same as HF) 7x12.

    If I want to cut say a 10"x1/4" piece and stand it up in the saw I know it won't be square, just the nature of the machine, cheap.

    If I lay it down I know that the cut will load with chips and wreck the blade.

    I keep my belt a little loose so that if the blade locks up the motor pulley
    will spin inside the belt. It makes a horrible screeching sound but at least I
    haven't ruined a $25. blade.

    Also pays to keep an eye on a long cut like this and lift the blade occasionally
    and clear the chips.
    The blade loads with chips even with cutting fluid?

    Do you have any other comments about this saw. I was planning on purchasing it as I thought it would be a better choice than the 4x6 that HF sells but if the quality is the same maybe I am better off just getting a small but high quality machine.

    Thanks
    Last edited by dudical26; 02-12-2009 at 01:41 PM.

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