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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Montana
    Posts
    64

    Default Dial Me In On TIG welding with My Trailblazer 302

    I E-Mailed Miller on what I needed to buy to be TIG capible with TB they got right back with me they are sure on top of it.

    Looks pretty simple. Now here is the question what are the quality of the welds? Give me your reviews. Pros & Cons Both

    Is the torch remote finger control work as well as a standard foot control.
    Anything else I should know.

    Thanks !

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Location
    Clark County, NV
    Posts
    2,696

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Mountain Metal View Post
    ...Now here is the question what are the quality of the welds? Give me your reviews. Pros & Cons Both...
    What exactly are you asking? It looks like you want a review of your welds, but nothing was attached.

    Then you want pros and cons of what options?

    Most of us prefer the foot pedal unless circumstances (positions, locations) really make it difficult to use.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    In wal-mart
    Posts
    460

    Default

    I run a foot pedal with my TB302, but at first I did the lift arc start until I had the money for the foot pedal. Both methods were great, but I prefer the foot pedal. The TB302 lays down some of the nicest tig, mig, and stick beads I have ever experience on any machine, generator or direct power, besides the Dynasty 200dx. I couldnt stand the finger control, it was really awkward, and really added no benefit to working with it, so the foot pedal is my choice of amp control, and yes, I can even rig up the pedal for any out of position weld I have to do, I do it all the time out at my work. I run a dry head 200 amp torch with the detachable heads, and a power cable and block. Excellent setup in my opinion, and the detachable heads allows me to configure the torch to the job without the need for 20 different tig torches. Tell me if you want to know anything else.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Anchorage AK
    Posts
    344

    Default

    MAC I am just as confused as you about the question asked?


    Could the OP please rephrase the question?

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Location
    Clark County, NV
    Posts
    2,696

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by usmcruz View Post
    ...I can even rig up the pedal for any out of position weld I have to do...
    That's a good reminder to think outside the box. Armpit pedal, thighmaster pedal, etc.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Los Angeles
    Posts
    2,861

    Default

    The quality of the welds are as good as the Weldor makes them.

    You are not going to get "Low Quality" welds from this set up just because it is GTAW off an Engine drive.
    Ed Conley
    http://www.screamingbroccoli.net/
    MM252
    MM211
    Passport Plus w/Spool Gun
    TA185
    Miller 125c Plasma 120v
    O/A set
    SO 2020 Bender
    You can call me Bacchus

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    very eastern MA
    Posts
    114

    Default

    i got a #26 tig (air cooled 200A) torch for mine recently.
    I went for the option that has the power cord and the gas hoze separate so i can just plug (tweeko) the power cable into my stick welding cord and the gas hoze in the regulator.

    Some have a 1 piece, combined cable, but then you need a power adapter to slit the gas off. Not sure if there is room for that in my TB.
    Anyway i have a tweeko female bolted to my TB's studs so that i can detach the cables quickly so the tig torch fits right in there if i am close enough.

    If you look at the torch model number then you can tell the cable/hoze option. and all the other ones, like a flex head or a gas valve.

    Mine also has a gas valve on the handle so i dont need a solenoid

    I didnt use a remote for a long time which is fine on thicker stuff or you just have to keep adjusting till its good.

    Cant remember how much it all was, but the torch was @$100 and then the regulator and a few cups and collets....and some wire.....

    G

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    In wal-mart
    Posts
    460

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by MAC702 View Post
    That's a good reminder to think outside the box. Armpit pedal, thighmaster pedal, etc.

    I returned the finger control to the welding store a day after I bought it, and told them that the finger control was very awkward, and the guy working their said, yeah we get allot of that. I told him, that I wanted the foot pedal instead, and he traded it out, but like lots of people, he brought up the age old comment "You know you wont be able to weld out of position with the foot pedal!", in which I replied, "If it means I have to stick the pedal between my a$$ cheeks and clench to control the amperage to get away with not using that finger control, I will do it!!". He just laughed, and said "Thats thinking outside the box" which is the comment you posted that made me think about that day.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    In wal-mart
    Posts
    460

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by gordfraser View Post
    i got a #26 tig (air cooled 200A) torch for mine recently.
    I went for the option that has the power cord and the gas hoze separate so i can just plug (tweeko) the power cable into my stick welding cord and the gas hoze in the regulator.

    Some have a 1 piece, combined cable, but then you need a power adapter to slit the gas off. Not sure if there is room for that in my TB.
    Anyway i have a tweeko female bolted to my TB's studs so that i can detach the cables quickly so the tig torch fits right in there if i am close enough.

    If you look at the torch model number then you can tell the cable/hoze option. and all the other ones, like a flex head or a gas valve.

    Mine also has a gas valve on the handle so i dont need a solenoid

    I didnt use a remote for a long time which is fine on thicker stuff or you just have to keep adjusting till its good.

    Cant remember how much it all was, but the torch was @$100 and then the regulator and a few cups and collets....and some wire.....

    G

    I also have the on/off gas valve on the torch. With the complete parts kit for the torch with the removeable heads, the torch, cable, power block, and little extras, it came to around $600 to $700, but now I have a setup that I can do anything that gets thrown my way. Plus I bought a crap load of that Hybrid tungsten from arczone that is the shiznit, which is where I got the torch and accessory kit and such.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    very eastern MA
    Posts
    114

    Default

    yea the torch was @ $100
    wouldnt like to think of the cost off all the consumables and accessories since then.
    Tungstens, cups, collets, collet holders, gas lenses and all the sh1t that goes with it. Filler rods, steel, stainless, copper. lots of sizes
    A pedal. MMMM feeling queeezy got to sit down.....

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