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Thread: bert/tig kit

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Oahu, Hawaii
    Posts
    2,469

    Default Taking your advice

    **WARNING** LONG POST AHEAD *** Please grab a snack and a beer***

    AWSOME GUYS !!!!
    Well, I'm not new to tig aluminum, I think I'm pretty good at it when it comes to doing 2x3" coupons But doing stuff in the "real world"/real project stuff seems to be another monster for me (different hand/body positions, etc). Never used a inverter machine before except at the Lincoln tent sales where they have 2 hour classes on a lot of things (I wish Gaspro did that! hint hint..). Practicing on the same size coupone over and over,I got pretty good at it, although now I might get feedback "bead too high, ripples not close enough, etc, that's what I come on this forum for...feedback!!! I have to do some painting on dad's house today and meet some perspective people to buy my boat trailer, so I can't weld till next week.

    Samurai Dave:
    asked for the gas lens (saw it and think it's awsome!!!) but they didn't have any in stock! Thanks for the tip/link on diamondground! Pen rod looks interesting, I guess you just start out with about 6-8" sticking out the front of the pen? Is it that much different than holding the rod in your hand, 'cept it's a little fatter handle? Tungsten is $46.69!!! (think it was $41 on sale)

    Clint: ok, cool. I'll try to start with 15cfm. The contractor's pkg came with 3 different cups and collets: cups have no #'s on them, collets:.040,1/16 and 3/32. Comes with 3 pieces of tungsten all ceriated (red band) 1 of each size.
    There's another 3/32" setup in the torch also. Torch is a WP17 Weldcraft flex head (well, it flexes now ) How's that compare with the series 9 torches? I'll try IOC for the diffuser lens.

    James:I'll try lanthanated through diamond ground, but isn't your machine NOT and inverter? Finding out inv vs. non-inv use different tungstens.
    I USED to do good at coupons..."lap,corner,t...lap,corner,t...lap,corne r,t"
    is all we practiced...ok, well it's been a couple years. Stainless brush and all the hand tools I got covered. I just need time after dad's house is painted
    I'm not late...
    I'm just on Hawaiian Time

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Oahu, Hawaii
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    2,469

    Default practice pipe

    Sundown and Clint,
    btw, I can get some alum. tubing/pipe to play with, but all the clean scrap I pick up is all anodized alum. I'm guessing to just hit it with a flap wheel first?
    which flap wheel so I don't get more cr*p inside?
    I'm not late...
    I'm just on Hawaiian Time

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Deltaville, VA
    Posts
    2,239

    Default

    Bert,

    Don't worry about the anodizing. Just crank up the amps a little and I think you'll see that it burns right out. The anodizing, in many ways, is easier to deal with than non-anodized which has a lot of oxidation. If the material is otherwise clean, just have a go at it and let me know what you think.

    Just thought it'd be a little more helpful "welding in circles".

  4. #14

    Default

    It seems that things have been pretty well covered, but I figured that I would chime in if for no other reason than to increase my post count .

    It has been metioned several times already, but I throw in my recommendation for 2% Lanthinated tungsten. I haven't looked back after trying it out on aluminum. Ceriated worked great on mild steal but I think that you will find yourself regrinding it quite frequently when working with aluminum. Also, I would suggest purchasing your tungsten online - you can usually find much better deals. Tungsten at our LWS is about 2.5x more than it is online.

    Higher frequencies are your friend when doing fillet welds (apparently this is one of the great advantages of inverters over transformers). I recently decided to do some destructive testing of some of my nicer looking welds and was surprised to find zero root pentration. I was using 130Hz (started out using 160Hz but dropped it down to 130Hz for unkown reasons ) but after doing a little more reading I think I am going to try pushing it to 180-200Hz. The weld crossections looked good, but after bending the pieces at the weld it became quite obvious that there was no fusion at the root. The welds still held quite well (no cracking), and I think that they would hold up for my purposes.

    My father and I are about to take our limited welding skill and attempt to build a cart similar to the on pictured here: http://www.millerwelds.com/interests...nd-the-shop/9/
    But, instead of holding the contractors kit we want to build in some drawers for holding misc. tools, consumables, etc. We also plan on adding bracket to hold a small argon tank on the bottom (tank would be laying down in front of the wheels).
    Last edited by grumpy42; 08-05-2007 at 03:49 PM.
    Dynasty 200DX
    MM252 w/ Spoolmatic 30A
    Spectrum 675

  5. #15

    Default

    Bert:

    That seems quite high for tungsten. Have you used Arc-Zone.com? www.arc-zone.com

    Weldcraft Brand Tungsten. Packages of ten electrodes. Price is the same for Ceriated, 1.5% Lanthanated, or their "Rare Earth". The Rare Earth was supposedly developed in cahoots with Miller to be the best "all around" tungsten for inverter machines. I have no experience with it.

    Prices for packs of ten electrodes:

    .040 - $ 5.41
    1/16 - 9.26
    3/32 - 20.80
    1/8 - 36.94

    I buy my tungstens from them, and all of my Weldcraft Torch supplies, gas lenses, etc. Decent prices. Fast shipping and some extremely helpful folks. Free shipping on orders over fifty dollars although I don't know if that would include orders to Hawaii.

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Oahu, Hawaii
    Posts
    2,469

    Default the 3 Amigos

    Archaic, Grumpy and Sundown
    thanks to all...
    Sundown, little relief there on the anodizing, thanks
    Grumpy, thanks for the info and tips
    Archaic, I'll check their prices against IOC.thanks
    I'm not late...
    I'm just on Hawaiian Time

  7. #17

    Default Lanthanated Question

    Grumpy or anyone else reading this thread. Question about Lanthanated tungsten electrodes. Have you tried 1.5% Lanthanated and 2% Lanthanated? Can you tell any difference in the welding characteristics or life of one as oppposed to the other? So far I have only used the 1.5% Lanthanated and am wondering if there is a noticable difference in the 2%.

    Adios-----

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    near rochester NY
    Posts
    9,881

    Default

    Bert
    yes i have an inverter, the TA-185 has almost all the same features as the dyn200 except the 120V option, and its 185 amps. its also not blue.
    Archaic
    Have you tried 1.5% Lanthanated and 2% Lanthanated? Can you tell any difference in the welding characteristics or life of one as opposed to the other?
    i have used both 1.5% and 2% lanthanated . as far as acr starts and performance they are identical. the only difference is the 2% holds up to the heat much better.
    i have tried all except pure and thoranated, pure being pointless to try and also not recommended for inverters, and thoriated being radio active and as such i don't see the need to teal with it. there are better options, like 2% lanthanated.
    thanks for the help
    ......or..........
    hope i helped

    feel free to shoot me an e-mail direct i have time to chat. james@newyorkmetalart.com
    summer is here, plant a tree. if you don't have space or time to plant one sponsor some one else to plant one for you. a tree is an investment in our planet, help it out.
    JAMES

  9. #19

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by fun4now View Post
    i have used both 1.5% and 2% lanthanated . as far as acr starts and performance they are identical. the only difference is the 2% holds up to the heat much better.
    I concur. I bought some 1.5% from the LWS (at nearly 3x the cost of 2% from arc-zone, but I didn't want to wait for the order ) and it held up pretty good, but the 2% is better. With 2% you will likely not have to regrind the tungsten unless you dip it or otherwise mess up the tip. Arc starting for both were great (I use lift-arc starting exlusively). I have only tried 2% ceriated, 1.5% lanthinated, and 2% lanthinated and on aluminum, 2% lanthinated rules .
    Dynasty 200DX
    MM252 w/ Spoolmatic 30A
    Spectrum 675

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Posts
    106

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Archaic View Post
    Grumpy or anyone else reading this thread. Question about Lanthanated tungsten electrodes. Have you tried 1.5% Lanthanated and 2% Lanthanated? Can you tell any difference in the welding characteristics or life of one as oppposed to the other? So far I have only used the 1.5% Lanthanated and am wondering if there is a noticable difference in the 2%.

    Adios-----
    Welding steel, no difference.

    Welding Aluminum, AC, the 2% lanthanated definitely holds up better for me (as the other guys have also said). My machine is a syncro 200, transformer square wave (SCR controlled output, not inverter).

    I buy my tungsten from Diamond Ground because they have sent me a bunch of free samples to try. I figure if they will send me something to try and I like it, I'll give them my business. Saves a lot of time and trouble on types I don't like or don't work well for me.

    If you want to just try 2% lanthanated before buying a bunch, give diamond ground a call and ask them to send you one or two. Also give their "tri-mix" a try. It costs more but it will give you something to compare to and they seem to be OK with giving samples of it. If you end up liking it, it's worth the small extra price.

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