Trying to vent engine drive exhaust from enclosed trailer.
I welded 1 3/4 exhaust pipe onto the muffler end, it was a good bit larger so had to fill in. Then took a 90 degree exhaust and turned it down to adapt it to 3" double wall gas vent pipe. This was to go through the plywood floor.
I ran the machine for a few minutes like this to see how hot the double wall pipe would get before I cut a hole in the floor, well it got really hot. Too hot to be around plywood.
So I am left thinking of putting a collar on the 3" double wall, cutting the hole through the floor oversize with an inch clearance all the way around.
But the collar will be attached to the hot pipe and transfer the heat to the wood that way.
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Thread: Exhaust Ideas
04-16-2013, 09:02 AM #1
04-16-2013, 09:38 AM #2
They have what is called a thimble for that 3" double wall. It is used specifically for that purpose. Going through a wall and protecting it from the heat. Also allows you ti seal up around it.
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04-16-2013, 09:55 AM #3
Thanks Jim I'll go have a look at that at the store
04-16-2013, 03:18 PM #4
I ran my Legend in the garage by putting it against an insulated and dry walled wall and running the exhaust straight out a clothes dryer vent with a flapper, never had a problem. Why does it have to go through the floor? Also I would be concerned and insulate it so no one bumps into it.
Last edited by tackit; 04-16-2013 at 03:21 PM.
04-17-2013, 01:06 AM #5
The floor just seems like the most logical place. Going through the roof of an enclosed would probably lead to leaks. The roof is made of thin flimsy material.
Going through the wall would be an eyesore on my trailer. Plus it is white and I'm sure that wouldn't last too long.
The other is a swing out exhaust through an open side door. This would require some set up and take down time. That may lead to cool down time or handling the hot pipes.
I really like the floor for this but I may have to change my mind before its all said and done.
I have considered someone touching it. I would hope they have better sense than venture into a persons rig. May need a caution or warning sign there. That's a possibility with any engine drive that is not mounted high out of reach. A curious kid would be my biggest worry.
I have to take a look at that thimble next. There is a welding blanket material that looks good also. Saw a utube vid where a guy melts a coin in his hand with a torch with just that material between the coin and hand.
04-17-2013, 06:55 AM #6
I would cap the exhaust while traveling and when the trailer is parked for long periods so no critters and bees make it their home... also any restricting of the engine's exhaust could effect the welders performance, I would go as big as possible.
If you come up with a fix post it... it would be interesting to see how you did it. Good Luck with your project.
04-17-2013, 08:51 AM #7Member
- Join Date
- Jun 2008
- hickory NC
You need to check the temp. it's prob not as hot as you think. Your set up would prob not get that hot your plywood should be fine. Check it with a temp probe I bet it's no more that 250 I would think the plywood could Handel that.MM140 AS
04-17-2013, 09:05 AM #8Member
- Join Date
- Jun 2008
- hickory NC
Autoignition temp is around 400f-500f your pipe would have to be that hot at the plywood for it to start a fire.MM140 AS
04-17-2013, 09:42 AM #9
OK thanks guys. I will post how it ends up. It is probably just me, you know how we overkill and overthink everything.