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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Illinois
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    3

    Default Welding spring steel

    Is it possible under agriculture conditions. I welded a shank on an applicator the other day, the guys at work razzed me about it of course, but I would assume there must be a way to weld it and prevent it from breaking? If not , will it break at the weld , around the weld, or somewhere else? The steel is about one inch thick, 2 inches wide, and about 3 feet long with a curve in it. It's used for applying anhydrous ammonia, and typically runs in the ground 7 to 12 inches at 6 mph. I veed out the break and made 5 passes with a 6011 on ac. on both sides. Any help would be great, as I would love to prove the guys wrong just this one time! It is , I assume some type of carbon steel?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    Maine
    Posts
    732

    Default

    I'm curious to the answer, because I've never managed to successfully weld spring steel. They've always re-broken in the HAZ just beyond the weld... tried it with 7018 and 6010 (the mild rods I commonly have on hand), even tried torch annealing the weld with no success.
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  3. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Central Florida
    Posts
    193

    Default

    Not knowing what an applicator shank is I had to google it... The one I found looks like a piece of flat bar curved in an S-shape with a chisel-looking attachment on the end that goes in the ground.

    A carbon "spring" steel probably contains .70 - .90 percent carbon like AISI 1070 - 1090 steel. That much carbon makes it sensitive to hydrogen embrittlement as well as formation of brittle microstructures such as untempered martensite in the HAZ. Just joining 1070 steel for a static application would require high preheat, a low hydrogen process with a matching strength filler metal, and post weld stress relief.

    Springs are highly stressed engineered components. The steel is typically through-hardened by heat treatment and the springs are often shot-peened to improve fatigue life. Both of these effects are reduced near the weld by the heat of welding. If a spring broke then it broke at a high stress location. A weld can never match the fatigue strength of un-welded base metal, and a weld is not going to last very long at a location with a high cyclical stress range.

    I'd be interested in hearing success stories, but my opinion is that springs aren't good candidates for weld repair. Try it if you must and if a second failure won't hurt anybody, but order a new part first...
    Bill
    "The more I learn about welding the more I find there is to learn..."

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Lake of the Ozarks MO
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    3,548

    Default

    1090 is what razor blades are made of.
    A spring like that would fall more into the 1050-1060 range I believe if it was old school enuff to be a 10 anything.
    Mixed results would be what you would get. The first and main question is what broke it??

    I would say a "spring guy" could do it for sure. Welded, hammered, properly annealed and reground. Prolly cheaper to get a new sping that way.
    Could you add a leaf to it?

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  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Posts
    258

    Default

    The applicator shanks used in our area are not spring steel. We just pre heat and weld with 7018. They hold fine until they hit rock with them.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
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    Lake of the Ozarks MO
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    Default

    So it's sorta like a ripper tooth??

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  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Delhi, Ontario:
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    1,969

    Thumbs up nfinch86- Canadian Weldor :

    HI, I agree with Finney, as I do a lot farm repairs. Preheat at least 3" each side of the break, and weld with 7018!!..... Norm : PS. bBe sure to bevel it out, tack it up real good, weld one side, then Grind the backside back to the first weld. then weld the second side so as to have a weld all the way through!!!! Good Luck !!!..... Norm :

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  8. #8
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    Nov 2007
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    Saskatoon, Sask, Canada
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by FusionKing View Post
    So it's sorta like a ripper tooth??
    I kinda had a chuckle at your previous post when you mentioned adding a leaf to it, but I know not everyone has a farming background. That's part of the reason I visit sites like this, to learn about new things.

    Here is a picture of one type of cultivator shank assembly that I found on the web.
    The part he welded up is the curved piece, the spring assembly on top is called the "trip", it is supposed to allow the shank to flip up and over large immobile objects such as rocks. As with anything in life it doesn't always work as planned!!!
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  9. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
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    835

    Default

    6011 will leave a brittle weld in this stuff. Use DRY 7018 rods. Maintain a few hundred degrees preheat.

    What I wonder is how in the heck you found the broken piece!

    I've done that song and dance of trying to find broken implement parts or dozer teeth in the middle of nowhere and it's a real crap shoot.
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  10. #10
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Belle Plaine Iowa
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    270

    Default

    These applicator teeth arent real crowded on the toolbar. Its easy to find them by just going backwards down the same row in the field. Ive had farmers that were "too busy" to go look for the lost parts thinking they would find them the next trip through the field. Sure nuff! Id be out there replacing a tractor tire while they were cultivating...Still too busy! Now in the fall harvest when theyre "really busy" they call me out to replace the destroyed combine tire. This is one reason I dont work on tire any more.
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