I need to replace the exhaust manifolds on my truck in the near future. Both have cracks. It is a chevy 454. I can't get the bolts that hold them onto the heads to break loose, any hints? These are bolts not studs. I've only tried when the engine was cold. No way to get penetrating oil in there.
Results 1 to 10 of 18
Thread: breaking bolts loose?
-
11-25-2008, 03:31 PM #1
breaking bolts loose?
MM250
Trailblazer 250g
22a feeder
Lincoln ac/dc 225
Victor O/A
MM200 black face
Whitney 30 ton hydraulic punch
Lown 1/8x 36" power roller
Arco roto-phase model M
Vectrax 7x12 band saw
Miller spectrum 875
30a spoolgun w/wc-24
Syncrowave 250
RCCS-14
-
11-25-2008, 04:15 PM #2
Senior Member
- Join Date
- Sep 2005
- Location
- S.W. Pennsylvania
- Posts
- 2,249
Provided the bolts are not covered with oil, water actually will penetrate rust and provide some lubrication.
If it can get to the threads.To all who contribute to this board.
My sincere thanks , Pete.
Pureox OA
Westinghouse 300 amp AC stick
Miller Syncrowave 250
Hexacon 250 watt solder iron
-
11-25-2008, 04:39 PM #3
Senior Member
- Join Date
- Sep 2005
- Location
- CT.
- Posts
- 332
You have one of the best bolt removers at your disposal. Your mig machine. Let's say you round the head off or even break the head of the bolt off. Find a nut and weld the nut on the broken bolt(fill the center of the nut up with high heat and good feed). The heat will allow the bolt to come out. You can use penetrating oil after you weld the nut on. This may take a couple of tries but it works. Also once the nut is welded on let it cool for a little bit and rock the nut back and forth with a wrench.
T.J.Miller Dynasty 300DX
HTP MIG 240
HTP 380 Plasma
Bridgeport Milling Machine
South Bend Lathe
Etc. Etc....
tjsperformance.com
-
11-25-2008, 05:22 PM #4
Member
- Join Date
- Oct 2007
- Location
- Alberta
- Posts
- 60
just heat them up with a torch.
-
11-25-2008, 05:34 PM #5
Thanks for the replies. The bolts are probably 3 inches long & go through the exhaust manifold & then thread into the head. I don't want to break them off if I can help it. They are not seized in the exhaust manifold but in the head. Worst case I plan on cutting off the boltheads to remove the ex manifold & then maybe I can get some heat or penetrating oil on the threads. I was hoping there was a tried & true method for this application.
MM250
Trailblazer 250g
22a feeder
Lincoln ac/dc 225
Victor O/A
MM200 black face
Whitney 30 ton hydraulic punch
Lown 1/8x 36" power roller
Arco roto-phase model M
Vectrax 7x12 band saw
Miller spectrum 875
30a spoolgun w/wc-24
Syncrowave 250
RCCS-14
-
11-25-2008, 07:08 PM #6
ya be in bad fortune. Try tightning the bolt first. If that don't work then take the heads of the bolts off, remove the manifolds, heat the studs remaining, apply parafin or candle wax to the block around bolt stub, attach vise grips close and get it to giggle and work it out. Be patient.
-
11-25-2008, 08:32 PM #7
Junior Member
- Join Date
- Nov 2008
- Location
- Richmond, Ky
- Posts
- 13
I have a set of bolt extractors, they work better in tight places. You may still need heat though. They are made by craftsman, and about $50. I would cut the heads off remove the manifold then try the extractor, for more bite.
2 -225 bobcats 1 Koehler 1 Onan
Kalamazoo band saw
Dewalt dry cut carbide tooth chop saw
Hitachi grinders and drills
Miller 210 mig
IR air compressor Koehler engine
Hypertherm Plasma cutter
-
11-25-2008, 09:21 PM #8
Senior Member
- Join Date
- May 2008
- Location
- Belle Plaine Iowa
- Posts
- 233
Start the engine and get it good and warm. Then try it. If you dont get anywhere apply penetrating oil as it cools.
The next thing I would try is applying a torch to the head near the bolt. Do this while the engine is cold. It doesnt take much heat to expand the opening while leaving the bolt cold.
Have you tried tapping the heads with hammer?
Taking the bolt heads off is a last resort.Who do you call when the lawmakers ignore the law?
Miller AC/DC Thunderbolt 225
Miller 180 w/Autoset
Old cutting torch on LPG
-
11-25-2008, 11:43 PM #9
Member
- Join Date
- Sep 2006
- Posts
- 42
I have had to deal with ALLOT of seized bolts. A few things to try. No hard fast rule or silver bullet but here goes.
Penetrating lube is worth its weight in gold, you will be surprised how much it wicks UP. use lots and give it some time
as it was mentioned, heat the bolt. This MAY break some of the corrosion free.
Heat the area AROUND the bolt and cool the bolt with liquid CO2 (find a can of electronic duster and turn it upside down
Impacts are your friend can you get one on any of the bolts (a wide range of impact wobble joints on the market might help)
Try to give it a hard sharp impact in the opposite direction you want it to move.
If all else fails...cut, beat,pry, Hot wrench the heads off.
good luck, and remember they are inanimate objects. Swearing at them wont help
-
11-26-2008, 01:35 AM #10
I'd also go with cutting the heads off to leave something to grab onto when you let the penetrating oil do its thing.
If you opt to twist them off first, you're guaranteed to part the bolts at the shank where the last thread ends (first section of minor diameter reduced from major diameter = weakest point between force applied and resistance at the threads), or worse, at the face of the head where there's next to nothing left to grip or weld to.
Heat crushes the rust by expanding the bolt inside the hole. When the bolt cools, the male thread is no longer bonded to the female head. If you heat the bolt, but don't let it cool, you risk seizing the bolt via that expansion itself. So if you get out the rosebud, get em good and hot, then let them cool.
Penetrating oil works wonders, but you need to let it soak - several hours, and sometimes days. There's a lot of pressure holding the threads together, so just getting em a little wet isn't going to allow the oil to find its way between the mating surfaces that are fused together. If you're going to heat them, do it before the oil. There's no use in burning off the oil you just applied.
And lastly, use some freaking anti-seize when you put it back together.
Syncrowave 250DX
Invison 354MP
XR Control and 30A
Airco MED20 feeder
Thermal Dynamics Cutmaster 81
Smith O/A rig
And more machinery than you can shake a 7018 rod at


Reply With Quote









