Portable Welding Stand

[Don52]

This is a similar post to the one on the Hobart Weld Talk Message Board because I wanted to share this with those that aren't members of both sites.

I volunteered to do all of the repair welding for the three day Robot First Regional here in Michigan at Wayne State University. The Dynasty 200 DX TIG welder was ideal because the robots are mostly made of light gage aluminum. I needed a light weight portable welding stand that I could use in a trailer located just outside of the gymnasium where the main event was held. My solution was to make a new top for my roller support for my chop saw. It worked great and it doesn't take up much room when it isn't required. It also works as a table extension at home for long narrow parts that don't fit on my regular table.

More information regarding Robot First:

http://www.usfirst.org/?gclid=CJTNgZ...FQpzHgodni2p-A

[Bryan L]

very nice!

great idea. It would be quite cost effective as well.

[LewisCobb]

As a newbie welder with a somewhat limited space garage this really caught my eye.

Your stands look to be identical to the ones I have in my woodworking shop and they are the worst pieces of s*** that I ever bought - no matter how hard I reef on the red handle, the roller and stem manage to gently slide back down into the receiver tube, and it usually happens just micro seconds before I make a cut. I have been tempted to toss them on several occasions but when I got into welding as a hobby I thought to myself "I'll teach those things now". I have not yet really looked it over to see how I can correct the looseness with a good session at the stick welder though.

Did you do anything special to yours to prevent them from creeping down, or maybe I just got a couple of chinese lemons (I'm repeating myself with that phrase I know.....)

Cheers and thanks for the great project idea,

Lewis

[Bryan L]

well you could just drill a hole and put in a pin at the working height. Hang the pin on a chain so you don't loose it.

[LewisCobb]

well you could just drill a hole and put in a pin at the working height. Hang the pin on a chain so you don't loose it.

I had thought of that but have so many places where it has to be tweaked into the proper height I was hoping to figure out some way to rig a better clamping mechanism in it.

[FormerTankSarge]

Very cool portable unit, I like it.

I have one of those stands for woodworking and have used it while welding, I must be lucky, I've not had any problems with mine moving after I've set it.

But, I usually set it up run the table saw for a few cuts and put it away...

[nfinch86]

Could you C-Clamp it???..... Norm :

[Craig in Denver]

Lewis:
I'm guessing that the end of the locking screw is rounded off. If the locking screw is 3/8", use a 5/16" drill and drill the end of the locking screw. This will make it look, and act, like a set-screw. You could also add a second lock to the other side to double your clamping power.

[LewisCobb]

Lewis:
I'm guessing that the end of the locking screw is rounded off. If the locking screw is 3/8", use a 5/16" drill and drill the end of the locking screw. This will make it look, and act, like a set-screw. You could also add a second lock to the other side to double your clamping power.

I like the sound of this idea Craig. I'm on my way to the workshop to try and clean the place up and will have a look at the locking screw when I dig as far as one of these roller stands .

Will let you know what I come up with.

Thanks

[LewisCobb]

Craig - I took a look at the stand - the screw does not directly bear down on the sliding post but on some in between leaf of metal. Could cause the same problems as you mentioned with the smooth ended screw though. I couldn't see how to take the thing apart but will take another crack at it tomorrow. Another option might be just to extend the lever arm of the tightening toggle and get more force on the thing.

sorry to hijack this thread