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  1. #1

    Default Yet another Dynasty 200DX HF Start thread

    I have a 200DX and the HF start seems like it is gradually getting weaker/firing less and less.

    I bought the machine used a few months ago (it was fine at the time), but the hf seems to be going downhill.

    I does the thing where if it doesn't strat, I rub the tungsten on the workpiece and then it will start. But now it sometimes takes a few tries.

    So my questions are:

    1) Is there a set of points inside with an arc gap I can clean/adjust? This was the case for my ole dialarc.

    2) What's an HF board replacement cost? I am guessing this won't be a warranty job since I'm not the original owner...

    Sorry to drag a beaten to deta subject back up, but I searched and couldn't find anything conclusive on these questions...

    Thanks!
    ________
    INTERRACIAL BRITISH
    Last edited by captain bondo; 03-25-2011 at 02:50 PM.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Queens NY
    Posts
    1,547

    Default

    You may need to change tungsten to lanthanated or ceriated, drop your tungsten size depending on what amperage your welding at OR change you arc starting current through the hidden menu described in the owners manual.

    OR you could have a bad board.
    Dynasty 200 DX
    Millermatic 175
    Spectrum 375
    All kinds of Smith OA gear

  3. #3

    Default

    Thanks.

    Currently using 2% ceriated, primarily 3/32".

    I choose electrode size based on current carrying capacity. I will use 1/16" on thin stuff (under 40-50amps) and 1/8" on heavier aluminum, but I don't think I am ever in a situation where my electrode size is severely mismatched.

    Even if 1/16" electrode helped (which I don't think it does, at least 1/16"th at 40 amps is roughly as bad as 3/32" is at 100), I would have to intentionally undersize my tungsten which is no good IMO.

    I will try the start amps thing, but I have my doubts... so there are no points inside? It totally acts like a transformer machine with dirty/poorly gapped points...
    ________
    Dodge lancer
    Last edited by captain bondo; 03-25-2011 at 02:50 PM.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Queens NY
    Posts
    1,547

    Default

    No points. Just covering the bases. If the start parameters don't help, you probably have a problem.
    Dynasty 200 DX
    Millermatic 175
    Spectrum 375
    All kinds of Smith OA gear

  5. #5

    Default

    Crap. When I get home I guess I should get my serial number and see how old the machine is.
    ________
    Handjob messy
    Last edited by captain bondo; 03-25-2011 at 02:51 PM.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Posts
    15

    Default

    Laiky, Is the 200DX HF system different from the 300DX HF system? I know the 300DX has a set of points on the HF board. I thought I had a problem with my 300DX HF board so I called Miller and they told me to clean and gap the points to 0.010" on my 300DX before I assuming it was a bad HF board. I would talk to Miller about this before cracking open a machine though.

    Capt. Bondo - do you hear the familiar HF noise coming from anywhere when you try to start an arc? Are you using air or water cooled torch? I had similar symptoms that turned out to be a bad power cable on a water cooled torch. Arc got harder to start and then wouldn't start at all even using touch start. I assume you have checked all the simple stuff, lead connections, etc.
    Mark Thompson
    Arc Tech Welding

  7. #7

    Default

    Good point- will double check all connections- just an air cooled torch so nothing too involved- but you never know.

    It's like the HF doesn't kick in at all. I tried both a finger controller and a footpedal to ensure it wasn't the microswitch. The "whine" of the machine changes, I do get OCV at the torch (in other words, the torch is hot and I could technically scratch start it with the pedal down), but I don't hear the HF "crackle".

    Good to hear on the points- I will definitely be checking that tonight, because if it were an older dialarc or synchrowave I'd be lifting the front cover and running a little piece of paper over the points.

    I will report back! Thanks!
    ________
    EASY VAPE DIGITAL VAPORIZERS
    Last edited by captain bondo; 03-25-2011 at 02:51 PM.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Edmonton, Alberta
    Posts
    7,662

    Default

    There is NO points to adjust, the HF start comes off an arc starter circuit board.

    Supply me with the serial#, and I can tell you if the warranty is still good.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Posts
    1

    Default

    To improve the shield of your weld further try using a gas lens with a screen instead of just the usual copper tube with holes in it. If you collet is the wrong size it just won't fit in. I prefer using Crafter series torches.

  10. #10

    Default

    Not a shielding issue. I mostly weld stainless and pretty much always use a gas lens and a large cup with a suitable argon flow rate.


    But either way, suggesting that it needs a gas lens to start properly cannot be right- that would be a rediculous requirement in my opinion and not acceptable. It should readily start with NO gas and smoke the tungsten happily as far as I'm concerned- just like any other machine with HF will, including my 30 year old dialarc.

    Will get the serial tonight...
    ________
    Vaporizer
    Last edited by captain bondo; 03-25-2011 at 02:51 PM.

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