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Thread: Welding table build
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11-16-2008, 03:52 PM #11
Last edited by TS-Off-Road; 11-16-2008 at 03:55 PM.
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11-16-2008, 05:11 PM #12
nfinch86-Canadian Weldor :
Bryan L, HI; Great Looking Weldin Table,I'm Jealous TOO!! By the way where ya from ( Canada ) ??

Sunrise Outside My Shop In Delhi, Ontario
- Weldcraft WP26FV Tig Torch setup.
- Arcair- K 4000 CAC.
- LN-25 Wire Feeder
- Lincoln Ranger 8- Engine Drive- CC\CV:
- Miller Econo Twin AC/DC High Freq.
- Lincoln Power Mig 180C
- Spoolgun.
- Horizontal Steel Band Saw
- DeWalt Chop Saw .
- DeWalt Compressor - 13cfm, @ 100 psi.
www.normsmobilewelding.blogspot.com
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11-16-2008, 10:08 PM #13
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This is actually Bryan l looks like something is wrong with the login because I keep getting a quota error on login from an IP in Nevada...
anyway. I got some time today to finish off the table. Here are some pics.
As per fabricator's recommendation I did round off the corners. Thanks fabricator.



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11-16-2008, 10:13 PM #14
Junior Member
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- Nov 2008
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11-18-2008, 07:41 AM #15
no worries
Ugly welds??? Looks arent everything, I can show you pleanty of guys that weld pretty but there weld quality is horrid (kinda like smearing icing on a cake)
I would rather have ugly welds that hold vesus pretty welds that dont. Welding is a art keep practicing and it will more than likely get smoother. But if it doesnt dont wory about it too much.
There are pleanty of welders out there that there welds arent pretty but the pass XRAY and stress testing with flying colorsEvery question in life has an answer of
YES OR NO
Maybe = NO
Keep life simple and enjoy it!
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11-18-2008, 05:37 PM #16
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- Sep 2006
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I think that the biggest help for me so far was understanding what I am looking for when setting up my mig. My biggest problem was not having a high enough wire speed. I found my welds improved quite a lot once I figured out how to get the "bacon frying" sound coming from my torch
.
What I would love to do is watch a pro control the puddle.
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11-19-2008, 12:47 AM #17
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I would run some 2 x 2 x 1/4 angle on the under side to keep it from warping over the years. About 1 foot apart and around the outside edge if you plan on doing any heating and bending work. in the middle I would lay them so the point goes towards the floor.
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11-19-2008, 11:01 AM #18
I somewhat agree and also wish to encourage the op on the nice table but I run across a lot more ugly welds that are busted and very few good looking ones that need fixing. I don't consider those welds ugly BTW.
I guess maybe nowadays me tho... ugly and purty have become relative
I refer a lot to some folks making "gorilla welds" meaning not anything extra as far as looks goes but obviously strong.
But I am sure most people here know that just flat out sloppy welds won't hold much
Good enough just don't happen at my shop very often but I could still improve on looks a bunch still.Miller Dynasty 700...OH YEA BABY!!
MM 350P...PULSE SPRAYIN' MONSTER
Miller Dynasty 200 DX "Blue Lightning"
Miller Bobcat 225 NT
Miller 30-A Spoolgun
Miller WC-115-A
Miller Spectrum 300
Miller Spoolmate 200
Miller 225 Thunderbolt
SPEEDGLAS 9100XX
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11-19-2008, 05:16 PM #19
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- Sep 2006
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- 42
Here is a question. When tacking the brackets holding my power bar onto the table legs I had a hard time to say the least.
With thin metal and thick metal how do you get a good tack? I set it up for low heat at first to prevent the thin metal from blowing apart but it was too cold and I got no penetration onto the thicker leg. Then I turned it up and got some stick to the leg but it literally blew a hole into the bracket. I eventually lucked out and got both to stick but I really need to learn how to do it properly.
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11-19-2008, 05:22 PM #20
Ed Conley
http://www.screamingbroccoli.net/
MM252
MM211
Passport Plus w/Spool Gun
TA185
Miller 125c Plasma 120v
O/A set
SO 2020 Bender
You can call me Bacchus



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