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  1. #1
    ironmaiden Guest

    Question compressor needs...

    Hello, new to the site...I'm in the process of setting up a new shop and am wondering about my compressor needs. Do you go by CFM's/hp what? While I might use some air tools (drill, die grinder), my real interest is for a plasma (probably a Spectrum 625), and for cleaning out my welder now and then. Any ideas for what I might need?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    near rochester NY
    Posts
    9,881

    Default

    best advice i can give is be shore to get at least a 60 gal. tanks with a good sized 220V motor. i picked up the husky version from home depot. its only a single stage but has served me well for a few years now. a 2 stage motor will give you more air and may well last longer depending on your use and budget. but any way you look at it you judge a compressor by both of the above you asked about. the plasma cutter you chose will give you a needed CF PM as do most all the air tools. with a large tanks you can get away with using a tool that needs more air than you can produce for a lil bit but its best to say above usage when you pick a compressor. TSC also caries some nice 60 gal compressors, get the best you can afford within reason and you should get long happy service out of it. most all the lil compressors will not last that long in a shop, better to go big to reduce its run time and extend its life.
    i would also recommend you replace the lil screw type drain at the bottom with a better option like the kit pictured in my 2nd pic. that kit was like $15, but you could piece it together also if its better for you. the screw type tend to get clogged fast and not want to screw in and out well. or lose there seal.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    thanks for the help
    ......or..........
    hope i helped

    feel free to shoot me an e-mail direct i have time to chat. james@newyorkmetalart.com
    summer is here, plant a tree. if you don't have space or time to plant one sponsor some one else to plant one for you. a tree is an investment in our planet, help it out.
    JAMES

  3. #3

    Default

    I'd probably grab a compressor that is double the CFM of your biggest air usage tool @ 90 psi with a 60 gal tank. This should allow the compressor to get plenty of rest so you don't overheat.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    near rochester NY
    Posts
    9,881

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    i think mine is like 11.5cmpm at 90psi. thats done a good job of keeping up with my air tools the die grinder is probly one of my boggest users, or the cut off tool, not shore but the compressor can outrun the tool so its been fine.
    also a good idea to go ahead and spring for the synthetic oil. you dont use that much or that often so its werth the lil extra .
    do you have a budjet in mind for your air needs, 2 stages start out around $900 and a decent sized single stage will be around $450. IR's single stage at TSC is about $450 i think. probly the best option in an inexpensive home air compressor.
    thanks for the help
    ......or..........
    hope i helped

    feel free to shoot me an e-mail direct i have time to chat. james@newyorkmetalart.com
    summer is here, plant a tree. if you don't have space or time to plant one sponsor some one else to plant one for you. a tree is an investment in our planet, help it out.
    JAMES

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Oklahoma City, Oklahoma
    Posts
    304

    Default

    Just my two cents on the subject. I had a single stage, 60gal for a long time. Great comp and did just about any and everything I asked it to. When we built the new shop, I sprung for a 2 stage, 80 gal (mainly because dad confiscated the old one for his carpentry shop!!) and, for me at least, it was like night and day. A couple other guys can be running stuff and it still idles along. Also, it's nice to be able to go longer between cycles. Not that it matters for performance, but it's just one less thing making noise all the time. As a side note on the drain valves, I agree that those things should come off before you even take it off of the pallet. I replace mine with a pull cable style drain valve used on truck air systems. That way you can hook the cable up in easy reach and just give it a yank to drain it. I think it promotes safety because you are way more likely to drain the tank like you're supposed to, simply because you don't have to get on your hands and knees and fight that OEM style drain......OK, you got me on a soap box.....of all the engineering in the world, why can't they build a decent wing nut style valve?? I mean seriously, there are people working on hydrogen fusion but we can't fix a problem that plagues just about every off the shelf comp in the world......anyway, moving on....


    SSS

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    near rochester NY
    Posts
    9,881

    Default

    of all the engineering in the world, why can't they build a decent wing nut style valve?? I mean seriously, there are people working on hydrogen fusion but we can't fix a problem that plagues just about every off the shelf comp in the world.
    LOL thats funny. prioritys i guess.
    no dought a 2 stage 80 gal would be a nicer option i agree. but if cash is tight , do your best to atleast get a 60gal compressor like the husky or TSC's versions like the IR. i think the 2 stage wil not only be quieter but should also last longer due to less cycles and easyer work load.
    my comp. is oh ?? 5 or 6 + years old its been a wile but its still running like new, with a lil luck it will be doing the same in 10 more.
    thanks for the help
    ......or..........
    hope i helped

    feel free to shoot me an e-mail direct i have time to chat. james@newyorkmetalart.com
    summer is here, plant a tree. if you don't have space or time to plant one sponsor some one else to plant one for you. a tree is an investment in our planet, help it out.
    JAMES

  7. #7

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by SkidSteerSteve View Post
    Just my two cents on the subject. I had a single stage, 60gal for a long time. Great comp and did just about any and everything I asked it to. When we built the new shop, I sprung for a 2 stage, 80 gal (mainly because dad confiscated the old one for his carpentry shop!!) and, for me at least, it was like night and day. A couple other guys can be running stuff and it still idles along. Also, it's nice to be able to go longer between cycles. Not that it matters for performance, but it's just one less thing making noise all the time. As a side note on the drain valves, I agree that those things should come off before you even take it off of the pallet. I replace mine with a pull cable style drain valve used on truck air systems. That way you can hook the cable up in easy reach and just give it a yank to drain it. I think it promotes safety because you are way more likely to drain the tank like you're supposed to, simply because you don't have to get on your hands and knees and fight that OEM style drain......OK, you got me on a soap box.....of all the engineering in the world, why can't they build a decent wing nut style valve?? I mean seriously, there are people working on hydrogen fusion but we can't fix a problem that plagues just about every off the shelf comp in the world......anyway, moving on....


    SSS
    I think I'll be borrowing that idea when I get my Ingersol 60Gal hooked up eventually. Where do you go looking for that part?

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Mpls, MN
    Posts
    1,790

    Default

    A regular ball valve off the shelf is also a cheap option and easy to find and install. Gas line ones are rated for 150psi, so if you're not running a big twin cylinder pump; that'll do you just fine for around 7 bucks.
    Syncrowave 250DX
    Invison 354MP
    XR Control and 30A

    Airco MED20 feeder
    Thermal Dynamics Cutmaster 81
    Smith O/A rig
    And more machinery than you can shake a 7018 rod at

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    near rochester NY
    Posts
    9,881

    Default

    i have thought about spring loading mine so i could add a pull line to it. i dont have to mess around trying to screw it open and closed but i do still have to bend down to reach the ball valve. although its still about 400% better than the screw garbage that came with it. the other cool part about this setup is you can use an old air line to run the drane off watter anywhere you want it insted of just speuwing it out onto the floor. that could cause a nice oily wet streem running acrost the shop floor and thats no good for anyone.
    thanks for the help
    ......or..........
    hope i helped

    feel free to shoot me an e-mail direct i have time to chat. james@newyorkmetalart.com
    summer is here, plant a tree. if you don't have space or time to plant one sponsor some one else to plant one for you. a tree is an investment in our planet, help it out.
    JAMES

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Mpls, MN
    Posts
    1,790

    Default

    My ball valve is sticking out the side of the tank due to an elbow and a piece of pipe.

    I'm actually going to rig up a solenoid to auto drain it when I get around to it. Right now I have a 900sqft shop addition to complete.
    Syncrowave 250DX
    Invison 354MP
    XR Control and 30A

    Airco MED20 feeder
    Thermal Dynamics Cutmaster 81
    Smith O/A rig
    And more machinery than you can shake a 7018 rod at

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