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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Orlando / Daytona, FL
    Posts
    143

    Default Building a sound proof door

    I am building a sound proof room to run a dynamometer. The room is inside a concrete block building with a 10' ceiling and wood trussed roof.

    The big issue, there are two residential garage doors on either end of the 20' W x 40' L room. I need to insulate the doors and make them as air tight as possible with gaskets, but I'm still afraid I'll only be able to achieve an STC rating of something like 20, most of my walls will be in the 55-65 STC range, and I need my doors to be at least 40 STC.

    Only one of the 16'w x 8'h garage doors concerns me, as the other one is facing towards a direction that noise won't concern me much.

    I have thought about installing a commercial roll up door on the outside of the building, but those things are not air tight and even the insulated ones have very little R value (more insulation = more noise reduction and higher STC rating, to some extent).

    Thoughts? maybe build some type of multi piece door that swings side to side or up and down on hinges? and that I can gaskets around the edges to reduce noise transmission.
    Justin Starkey
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  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Los Angeles
    Posts
    2,835

    Default

    I would frame the inside of the garage door to hold 2- 8x8 Doors that swing open.

    Make the Doors a foot thick, fill the interior with Insulation and skin each side with Drywall.

    The increase in Air Space will increase the STC number

    12" Air Space with insulation should give 20-22db increase perhaps more with the garage door down.

    This is just a guess from being around Sound Stages.
    Ed Conley
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  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Medford MA
    Posts
    538

    Default

    Here in the north, insulating garage doors is not uncommon
    to keep the cold out in the winter.

    Often what is done is to fit styrofoam insulation panels to the
    inside of the door -- cutting/trimming/beveling/etc so that all
    the mechanisms still work, that there is clearance, and so on.
    To keep the cold air (and snow and ...) from infiltrating around
    the perimeter of the door, a heavy vinyl weatherstrip is used.
    As the door closes, it rubs up against the strip, forming a wind-tight
    seal. That might do it for you.

    Frank

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Orlando / Daytona, FL
    Posts
    143

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by fjk View Post
    To keep the cold air (and snow and ...) from infiltrating around
    the perimeter of the door, a heavy vinyl weatherstrip is used.
    As the door closes, it rubs up against the strip, forming a wind-tight
    seal. That might do it for you.

    Frank
    Do you have any pics or info of the seal used?
    Justin Starkey
    Syncrowave 250 TIGRunner
    Miller 210 MIG
    Spectrum 375 Plasma
    Ford and GM Dyno-tuning on the Moblie Dynojet trailer I built.
    VMP Tuning.com

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    16919 Pole Rd. Brethren, MI 49619
    Posts
    4,376

    Default

    Here in the north, insulating garage doors is not uncommon
    to keep the cold out in the winter
    I would say its more widely used to keep the heat in.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Location
    Clark County, NV
    Posts
    2,696

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by fjk View Post
    Here in the north, insulating garage doors is not uncommon
    to keep the cold out in the winter....
    It's just as valuable in the Las Vegas summer, my friend! And where the small cutouts are for the hinges the darn parts are often too hot to touch if the door faces west. The one I move into next week faces east!

    Home Depot sells kits to do the whole door's interior spaces. After I install that, I purchase 2" styrofoam insulation and glue on a custom layer over the top.

    But back to the OP, I'd go with the Veggie's idea.
    Last edited by MAC702; 10-19-2008 at 08:02 AM.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Medford MA
    Posts
    538

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Sberry View Post
    I would say its more widely used to keep the heat in.
    well, a bit of both perhaps

    i once had a garage door that was a bit loose. right beside the door
    was an exposed water pipe for the outside spigot. the looseness
    of the door was "just right" and it focussed a jet of nice frigid
    air directly at the water pipe, freezing it solid... eventually i
    moved the inside shut off valve farther back.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Medford MA
    Posts
    538

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Justin00Stang View Post
    Do you have any pics or info of the seal used?
    no -- my garage now is an unheated detached building -- no need
    for it.

    but here's a product from home depot's web site.
    (if the link fails, search for "weather seal"
    and you should be able to find it as
    "7 In. x 9 Ft. White Garage Door Weatherstrip Seal"

    http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/...ctId=100154969

    frank

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Medford MA
    Posts
    538

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by MAC702 View Post
    It's just as valuable in the Las Vegas summer, my friend!
    Las Vegas summer heat won't freeze & burst pipes
    But I expect it does help keep the A/C bill down...

    Quote Originally Posted by MAC702 View Post
    But back to the OP, I'd go with the Veggie's idea.
    My impression from the OP was that he already had the doors,
    etc and (presumably) wasn't in a position to make a double
    door. If he could, I agree that it would be the best.

    frank

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Location
    Clark County, NV
    Posts
    2,696

    Default

    I think Ed is suggesting a second door of low-cost construction, solely for insulation value, put just inside the real door; not getting a fancy double-door or even modifying the existing door.

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